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There is a main fuse in the microwave oven located below the keyboard near the high voltage capacitor, it is probably a ceramic fuse. If you attempt to replace the fuse, "unplug unit" remove top "several screws" once removed, you are exposed to high voltage danger, take a long screwdriver and short across the high voltage capacitor leads "silver color and rectangular in shape" now remove the fuse and take it to appliance repairman have him check it, if the fuse is good it indicates you have bad keypad controller and not cost effective to repair. If on the other hand the fuse is open, it may indicate a defective door switch. "and is repairable"
Unplug the Hamilton Beech Microwave Model P100N30ALS3B MICROWAVES ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS TO WORK ON DUE TO THE HIGH VOLTAGE. REPAIRS SHOULD BE ACCOMPLISHED BY A PROFESSIONAL ELECTRONICS REPAIRPERSON. Remove the 2 black screws from the sides. Remove the 2 regular silver screws from the back. Using a T20 torx wrench remove the 2 torx screws (I included a picture of torx wrenches with the female opening for the male pin). Slide the microwave cover back a bit and remove (there is a lip on the inside at the front of the unit which the frame fits into). DANGER!! DANGER USE CAUTION IF YOU DARE TO PERFORM THIS MODIFICATION!!
The electronics are behind the key pad on the inside. Look for the light blue flexible wiring strip (it's about 2.5" wide with black wires imprinted on it). Just below and to the left of that is the beeper (black plastic inverted U shaped disk see right).
Carefully insert non-combustible, non-conductive padding to each side and secure with electrical tape. I placed electrical tape on the areas that might be exposed to current, including the small barrel shaped capacitor above and to the left of the beeper. If all you used was electrical tape (and be very careful of what you are touching) it would reduce the sound some. I used cotton cosmetic pads cut to shape. When I finished, reassembled the unit and plugged it in the sound was reduced by a half at least. I just finished modifying mine, in the last hour. If you are not mechanical or electronics savvy, DO NOT ATTEMPT this modification. I assume no responsibility for incidents with regards to injury or *****. Update, I have been using the much quieter beeping microwave without incident. I'm still not used to how quiet it is. It's about 1/3 or even 1/4 of what it used to be.
May be a little different, than the Seagate FreeAgent external harddrive enclosures I've opened up. Here are for two styles;
1) Style one: External enclosure sits on a hollow tube that ends in a base.
Turn the Seagate FreeAgent external drive over on it's top, base up in the air. The base is formed out of two parts made of plastic.
A flat part on top, and a cupped shaped plastic part underneath. (Shaped like a rectangular cake pan)
The rectangular 'cake pan' part has 4 feet on it. The rectangular shaped part comes out of the flat base. If you look close you will see a parting line where the two plastic parts meet.
A flat tipped screwdriver is used to pry the rectangular shaped 'cake pan' out of the flat top part. Start in one area of the parting line, pry up a little. Move over, and pry up again. Keep going around until the rectangular shape comes out.
The flat part attaches to a hollow tube shape. Looking down there are three Philips head screws to remove. Removing them removes the flat shaped part of the base. One on each outside edge, (Two total), one in the middle.
The flat part comes off. Then you will see two more Philips head screws to remove. One on each side.
After removing the base, and the two screws listed above, the external enclosure comes apart in two halves like a clamshell.
The two halves have a parting line where a flat tipped screwdriver is inserted to pry them apart. DO NOT insert the flat tipped screwdriver tip, in between the two halves of the case, more than the length of half the length of a fingernail!
It ISN'T an easy task to separate the two halves. You won't be using the external enclosure's case anymore. Also watch your fingers! The plastic edges are S-H-A-R-P!
One half of the external enclosure's case has tabs that stick out along the edges of the case. These are shaped like a square loop. The loop has a hollow space in it. A Female tab if you will.
The other half of the external enclosure's case has tabs, that snap into the square loops. A Male tab if you will. The female square loops are plastic formed from the case, and can break easily. After you open the case you'll see what I mean.
One half of the case removes. The other half has the Harddrive attached to it. After you remove the case half, you will see a metal shield. There are two long Philips screws that go down through the metal shield, and hold the Harddrive assembly to the other half of the case cover. Remove them. Two on each side.
You now half to use your fingers, and a little brute force, and pry the Harddrive assembly out of the case half. Metal shield and all.
You will see two wires, (Red and Black) that connect to the case half, and come up to a White connector that attaches to the Harddrive assembly. Disconnect the connector from the Harddrive assembly. Lay the case half aside.
You can now see how to remove the Harddrive from the rest of the assembly.
2) Style Two: Shaped like a book, with one side having a taper, or slope.
I believe this explains it better than I could. It's a video.
TO REPAIR... 1. Warning. this set cangenerate leathal dangerous voltages even unplug do not attempt if youhave no experence with electronics. 2. Remove the back. there a number of torx 20 screws. 3.what you will see is a number of circit boards There will be one on theright and one on the left. the one on the right is the small signalboard. the one on the left is called the power deflection board. it hasa large black part with a big red or black wire coming from the top,this is the flyback.Next to the flyback on the right of it there willbe three small rectangular componets tan or brown in color. these arefuses. the one in the middle is the fl231 fuse it should be labeledthat right on the board. 4. getting to this fuse can be difficult.these two cuicit boards sit on a tray that is removable. to remove thistray it is pulled out and up. BUt watch the wires.loosen the wire tyes. 5 when you get the tray up the bottom side of the board can be accessed youwill now have to unsolder that fuse. one side of this fuse is under aplastic part of the tray. i have found the easest way is to cut awaythe plastic to get to it. if you dont want to do this you will have toremove the board. only remove half of the plastic brace 6. REPLACE FUSE RCA PART 259213 or you can goto radio shackand get a inline fuse holder and get the smallest glass fuse they havewitch is .75amp witch is 500ma and all together cost about $5.00 7 RESOLDER FLYBACK CONNECTIONS or both ends of the inline holder simply heat up and add a little solder 8 reassemble set. make sure you examine the set for loose connections. 9 and remember "BE Careful'
If it blew cold air after freon added and 5 days later blew warm, you may have a leak in the system. Also check and see if compressor comes on if not you may have an electrical issue, relay for compressor,coil on compressor, etc.......
Change out your ACC Relay. It is located on drivers side behind kick panel in fuse box. It is Black and rectangular shaped. Check for moisture. Many times water comes off driver door Chanel right into fuse box. Open driver door look for holes in front panel. ACC Relay is under 10 bucks at auto parts store.
hello take the back off the tv look where the power lead plugs in to
you should be able to see a glass fuse get a mulitmeter and test it if you change the fuse and it blows again you have a dead short in the circuit good luck
coolant temperature sensor,not the gauge sensor,plug looks like a half circle with 2 pins inside,i think the wires that plug in it is 1 yellow wire and 1 black wire...1 fan is for the air conditioning.