D battery replace the spring and flat battery connectors

Inside the case of the light, there will be 1 wire with a tapered notched connector. Take the connector with the low end of the taper and push it into the negative (-) spring (in between the coils ) of the battery. The spring will wedge the connector it one of the notches and will hold it securely. Reattach the lense carefully seating the end of the bulb onto the positive (+) spring of the battery.

Each item has its own way of holding batteries in an item. Most things have a spring clip cover over the battery that holds the batteries in place and you need to remove that before replacing the battery. Some covers can be held down with small screws. Some batteries are welded or soldered in place and you would be better taking these to your local tech guy to do these. Once you have the batteries in view note what size and which way round they are. The new replacement ones should be the same size, shape and voltage (power) you will see they have a different shape to either end of the battery.
The ends or terminals are marked + (positive) or - (negative). Mostly you can describe them as being flat (negative) or bumpy (positive) and any spring in the housing will go against the flat end.
Turn your device off, flip the old battery out (move the the battery against the spring end to release the positive end first - it is normally easier that's all.) and replace the old battery with the new one. Try putting the negative end in first to squash the spring and the positive (bumpy) end will fit easier. If there is more than one battery in line then you will find the bumpy end of one goes against the flat of the other. Still the same, flat end of the first battery then the second battery with its flat end against the bumpy end of the first one. Put the cover back on and switch on........
Don 't forget to dispose of the old batteries according to your local ordinances as they do contain fairly poisonous chemicals that can leach out into the soil if incorrectly disposed of.

It would help if we knew which device held the batteries as they may not be the small round tube shaped ones .....

Do a web search for sealed lead-acid battery. There are hundreds of on-line dealers. The three things you need to know for selecting the battery are voltage (6 Volts), Amp-hour rating (must be at least as large as the old battery to get the same time between charges) and physical dimensions (must fit in the battery mount or box). It would be really nice if it has the same terminals as the old battery so you don't have to replace the wiring connectors. You can also search by the model number on the battery - most manufacturers have a cross-reference to competitors' equivalents.
If you have a local Batteries Plus franchise, you may get a better buy there when compared to the price and shipping cost for an on-line order.

Power Wheels uses a very specific connector for their 12V batteries. It is possible to change over to another system but it is recommended for the safety of the child to only use a Power Wheels genuine 12V battery. The part number for the 12V battery is 00801-0638. We sell them here @ Genuine Power Wheels Replacement 12 Volt 6 Volt Batteries

You can also buy the battery at Toys R Us, and usually off of amazon as well. I do highly recommend using only genuine Power Wheels parts only on the vehicle.

-Colleen @ MenidngShed

The CMOS battery will be in one of two places....

Start out by looking around where the keyboard connector is.

First- Most common is a "button" battery mounted on the motherboard. Most common is a CR2025- a little smaller than a quarter. It will be held in by a spring clip that either uses very tiny philips screws or can be popped out with a small screwdriver.
Sometimes on a motherboard the battery will be about the size of a M&M laying flat or a sideways Jolly Rancher, and soldered to the board. These can be difficult to replace, and are best left to a technician.

The second location is on the inside of your computer case.....mounted on a small square of velcro- this battery will look somewhat like a small 9 volt battery, with a red and black wire going into a connector on your motherboard. For this type you will need to go to a computer specialty store or Radio Shack, and it simply plugs in where the old one came out from.

Hi
The battery should be connected with a white or cream colored molex connector. Unfortunately when these connectors get hot they have a very low melting point. Make sure the connector is cool and then try to separate with pliers. Once separated you may have to replace both connectors. Your local hobby store can sell you the connectors and even do the replacement.

Quality alkaline batteries are a necessity, and double-check that polarities are true...negative (flat end of the batt) is always on the spring...and a gentle cleaning of the battery contacts may also help.
You can clean the contact points using a piece of paper towel with a few drops of vinegar on it, or a piece of extra-fine (000) steel wool.

Also check the tension on the springs for a tight fit...you can tug the springs a small amount to revive an aged set for better contact.

Look for the factory reset slot on the rear of the unit and press it for a few seconds when you replace the batts.

try here AA Rechargeable Battery 700mAh NiCd 1 2v or NiCd Rechargeable Cell AA 1 2V 700 mAh Flat Top 1PC or Amazon com SANYO 700AAC NiCd AA 1 2V 700mAh SANP1100 Toys Games you'll know which one you need from the pictures I'm guessing...

This solution may not make you any happier, but I had the same problem. The issue is that the batteries are not sending power to the player. Before reading any further, check that the batteries are installed correctly. Anywhere there's a spring in the battery box, the negative end of the battery should be touching the spring (negative is the flat end of the battery, not the end with the bump).

If that doesn't help, what I did was to take apart the toy. Yes, this voids warranties, but I'm not willing to spend time chasing down this company for warranty service when I didn't keep my receipt. The small rubber circles on the back of the player cover the screw holes. Just get something under them and pry up until you have uncovered all 9 screws. Carefully open the case. Inspect the wires that go from the battery case to the circuit board, and from the circuit board to the on/off switch. One of these wires has probably come off because it was badly soldered. Either that, or a wire was pinched until it broke inside the insulation. You can usually see where a wire was pinched. Have someone who knows how to solder replace the suspect wires. Once I did this, my player started working again, and now I know the solder joints will all hold for the life of the device!

*WARNING! Only disconnect and reconnect one wire at a time. If you get wires reversed, not only can you break the device, but the wires the company originally used are too thin and can overheat and melt, potentially causing a fire. This is also a reason to be sure the batteries are removed when soldering...

I have the same issue as well, I went to Batteries Plus and sized up some batteries, the closest one was a replacement for an IQUE 3600 PDA, Batteries Plus # PDA-35LI. 3.7 volt, 900MA. $39.99 you'll loose a little bit of the "new in the box" runtime however probably not much Its just a MM or two wider, however its slightly thinner AND it already has the right connector on it. The fit is almost perfect. Being wider it kinda hits the wires that go to the output pin connector however with one thick layers of double sided tape it clears them perfectly and being thinner there was no clearance issue getting it back together. Be careful if and when you take your unit apart, the flip up antenna has a spring loaded pin on the right side that can pop out, mine sprung out and not knowing what to look for it took some time to find it. There is a small silver spring and a black oval shaped pin. Its working perfectly now!

Good luck!