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Re: old house wiring
SHOULD FIND ANY GOOD STORE OR ELE SUPPLIER JUST LOOK FOR CU/AL ON THE CONNECTOR THIS MEANS APPROVED FOR BOTH IF THIS IS FOR LARGER SIZE CABLE SUCH A RANGE CABLE THE SPLIT BOLT TYPE SHOULD HAVE A DIVIDER IN THE CONNECTOR ITSELF WHERE THE COPPER WILL CONNECT ON ONE SIDE OF THE DIVIDER AND THE ALUM ON THE OTHER SIDE AS YOU TIGHTEN THE NUT ON THE SPIT BOLT , HOPE THIS HELPED
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IF you nhave a 3 wire feed fronm the house for your range, you connect the red and black for the power and then use the copper wire from the wall to connect to the white and copper wires from the range. All new construction must have a 4 wire feed to a range and dryer.
the unit is 240 volts not 120 volts/its ok to have the wht and green tied together so long as it comes directly from the house main panel/new law in some places require them to be separate/wht=Neutral/Green=safety grd to case...now how many watts does this unit draw? 2/12 wires sound awful small for the input current/sounds like you need to upgrade to atleast 2#6 wires for power/1#8 for neutral and atleast a #10 for safety ground
You may need to get a wire connector to install on the ground (earth) wire, so it can be connected to the terminal connection point on the new oven.
If one wasn't provided with the oven, some do this as a service, just look at the ground terminal or in the bag with the instructions, etc. for one. If not, you should be able to purchase one, you'll just need to get one that fits the wire, so knowing the gauge of the wire (either Awg or Kcmil size) will make this easier to get the right connector size.
I recommend that a ring terminal be used, so in the event that the fastening screw might loosen, the ring terminal will not fall off the contact point, whereas a fork terminal could and can come off much more easily.
Not having more detailed info about the brand and where you're located, makes further possible solutions difficult to provide, since Fixya doesn't require requestors to provide any info on what country they're in, etc.
Nonetheless, I hope you find this Very Helpful and best regards!
you may not be able to dur this because the whit shoul be a neutral and the red and blk 22o and the copper is your grd. look at the old oven's data plate and see if it says 120/220 volts ok? you may have to get another wire to the ovens
U need to open/unscrew back and look at bottom connections to the left ( looking from the back) Earth green and yellow- Blue is neutral and Brown is live you probably need electrical female spade connectors for your end of the 'hard' wire !!
THE ONLY SOLUTION FOR THE BAD DISPLAY IS TO REPLACE THE CLOCK. I HAVE A JENN AIR OVEN TODAY AS A WORK ORDER TO REPLACE THE CLOCK FOR A FAILED DISPLAY.
FOR THE JGW8130DDB WITH NO POWER ANYWHERE, IT SOUNDS LIKE YOU HAVE A SUPPLY PROBLEM. MAKE SURE THE WIRING IS HOOKED UP WITH THE RED AND WHITE WIRES RECEIVING 240 VOLTS AND THE WHITE WIRE ATTACHED TO NEUTRAL / GROUND.IF THE OVEN HAS A BARE COPPER WIRE AND THE HOUSEHOLD WIRING ONLY HAS THREE WIRES, COMBINE THE WHITE WIRE AND THE COPPER WIRE TOGETHER AND ATTACH TO THE HOUSEHOLD NEUTRAL / GROUND .
UNLESS YOU ARE SURE ABOUT THE HOOKUP IN THE BREAKER/FUSE BOX, DO NOT GO SIMPLY BY THE COLOR OF THE WIRES.