Question about Frigidaire FEX831CS Top Load Stacked Washer/Dryer

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Electrical Plug Do you know if it is possible to splice a power cord for a washer and dryer with a quick connect or something similar? I am having problems with my neighbors using it without permission.

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  • robert samples May 11, 2010

    hey get back to me on this one i got to know the full story lol may be i can help

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I guess the washer and dryer are somewhere that someone can get in to use them without permission. Where do you and they get electrical power from?If they are connected through circuit breakers then just throw the breakers when you're not using the machines.

Posted on Mar 18, 2008

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Is there a reset button


First, plug a fan or hair dryer into the plug to make sure it has power, if not, check to see if the GFI plug hasn tripped. All electrical plugs that are near water have to be on a dedicated electrical line that has a trip-breaker (GFI) built into the plug. Try unplugging the washer for several minutes to reset the electronics. Those are the only two quick fixes I can think of. If you have an electric dryer, it will have its own 220v plug and won't be affected like the washer. If the dryer is gas and is plugged into the same outlet, try unplugging the washer to reset first before you call a repairman for the washer. If you have homeowners insurance, they may cover the damage.

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F21 code displayed> cleaned water trap next to water pump that had lots of stuff plugging the filter but now power cord GFCI plug shuts off when I try to Start washer...


Hi you could have a clogged drain pump or obstruction in it. Remove the lower bottom cover. Have a container or towels to catch water. Removed the drain cover by turning counter clock wise. Sometimes you have to remove the pump to fully and clean. You also need to plug the washer into another outlet. If possible use an extension cord use the extension for test only.

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1 Answer

I need to know how to install a cellanoid in my Whirlpool Duet washer Mod # GHW9150PW4 is there a place to get the instructions?


Are you meaning the Water Inlet Solenoid Valve??????

If yes .... you need to know if your W/P Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer really has a bad Water Inlet Solenoid Valve for the Hot and Cold water. This valve is where the Hot and Cold water hoses connect to the rear of your washer on the upper top left side in the rear as you are facing the washer. In my opinion it is highly unlikely that your Water Inlet Solenoid Valve is bad....but it is possible. Sometimes the filter screen in the inlet(s) of the Hot & Cold water valve can be stopped up with dirt, sediments, etc. If you turn off the water faucets and remove the Hot & Cold water hoses from the washing machine... you will be able to see the screens...if they are stopped up you can remove them with a small screw driver and clean them and reinstall them.

Hook up your hoses and turn on your water supply Hot and Cold faucets.

Here is a quick test procedure that you can do to verify the operation of the Water Inlet Solenoid Valve.

Verify that your water hoses are hooked up and the water faucets (Hot & Cold) are turned on.

Unplug the washer's 120Volt AC power supply cord from the electrical plug on the wall.

(1) Remove the top cover...There will be three screws on rear area of the cover: Left - Middle -Right.
(2) Once the top cover is removed...you will be able to see the Water Inlet Solenoid Valve...just follow the Hot & Cold water hoses from the wall to your washer. Usually the water inlet solenoid has a blue plastic housing assembly with (2) separate push-on or pull-off quick disconnect electrical connectors. One connector pair provides 120volt AC to the Hot water solenoid and the other connector pair provides the 120volt AC to the Cold water solenoid.
(3) Remove the push on or pull off quick disconnect electrical connector to one of the water inlet solenoids..It does not matter which one at this point in time.
(4) You will need an electrical 120v AC Test Cord. You can make this from an old lamp AC power cord or and old 120v AC Extension Cord. You will need two alligator test jumpers or leads (Radio Shack has them). The end of the test cord that plugs into wall is not to be modified. The other end of the test cord will have to be modified in order to conduct this testing. Strip back the insulation to reveal the two leads that will carry the 120v AC power. You should have one black lead (120v AC HOT) and one white lead (120v AC Neutral). Connect (1) alligator test lead to the black lead and insulate with electrical tape as necessary and connect (1) alligator test lead to the white lead and insulate with electrical tape as necessary You now have your 120v AC Test Cord ready. If you have a VOM test meter..you can connect the VOM meter to the two remaining alligator test leads. Have your VOM test meter set for AC Volts and on a scale that will measure 120v AC. Plug in your test cord to the 120V AC wall power. If everything is OK your meter should read approximately 120 Volts AC.

(5) Unplug your 120v AC Test Cord from the wall power.

(6) Connect your 120v AC Test Cord to your Water Inlet Solenoid Valve electrical terminals.
See Step (3).

(7) Plug your 120v AC Test Cord into wall power. If the water solenoid valve is good you should hear water surging thru the water solenoid valve. If you do not hear the water running thru the valve you can verify if the 120v AC is getting to the valve with your VOM. It should read 120v AC. If it does read 120Volts AC at the terminals of the valve and you do not hear the water then the valve is probably defective: Either stuck shut and won't open or the solenoid coil is open (Bad).

(8) Unplug your 120v AC Test Cord from wall power.

(9) Disconnect your (2) alligator test leads from the solenoid valve and re-install the electrical push on connectors that was disconnected in Step (3)

(10) You can now repeat this test on the other side of the Water Solenoid Valve (See Step 3).

(11) If both sides of the Water Solenoid Valve check out good...then your Water Inlet Solenoid Valve is good. If it does not check out then replace it.

(12) If your Water Inlet Solenoid Valve is good...then ....unfortunately, there is a good chance that the CCU module is bad. The CCU module is in effect a computer control unit and controls the overall operation of the washer. The CCU module will cost approximately $150.00

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1 Answer

Does this washer dryer need to have a ground fault plug in?


Hi!!
No, the washer/dryer does not need a GFI, it is well insulated an all electrical components that even if you had a water leak, and touch the unit, it will not shock you. What is needed is a 3 prong connector, this extra ground prong will increase the protection against a electrical shock. I have seen people that removes this prong so they can use an extension cord, it is not recommended to use extension cords with this units, but in case that you must use one, make sure the extension cord has 3 wires and an AWG rating larger than the load is going to carry to prevent overheating and possible fire hazard.
Most homes are equipped with a dedicated outlet for the washer/dryer. If your unit is connected to one of those outlets, you have nothing to worry about.
Good Day!! A HELPFUL - 4 THUMBS - rating for this solution would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for using FixYa.

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1 Answer

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Hi, the possible causes are: Possible Causes: The wall receptacle, power cord (plug) and electrical supply must be in good condition and wired correctly for the dryer to heat.
  • Supply Issue - Loose or missing connection on supply wire from circuit breaker.
  • Plug Issue - Loose or missing connection in the wall. Defective, worn or damaged wall plug.
  • Cord Issue - Loose, missing or incorrect connection of the power cord to the dryer terminals.
If gas dryer and does not heat, Gas Dryer heats with a gas burner, make sure the gas supply line valve is open.
Also, for electric dryer,
Electric dryers require two 30 amp breakers or fuses in the house electrical box to run and heat. If one breaker is tripped or one fuse is blown, the motor, the timer and lights can work but the dryer will not heat.

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1 Answer

Hi, I live in Argentina and I have a kenmore 96093800 Dryer. This Machine has 120/240v and his plug has 4 pins. Two pins are flat, one pin is cilindric, and the fourth pin is en angule. How can I connect...


Are you connecting this Dryer cord to the Dryer or are you looking for a wall plug with this same configuration to plug into. This is a standard double ground configuration and you can buy the wall receptacle at a hardware store. Your house should have 4 wires to this, 2 lines, a neutral, and a ground. As always the recommendation is that you have an electrician install your house receptacle. Your Dryer power cord is something you can install however. The two outside terminals on your dryer 240 volt wiring block are connected to the two outside wires on your power cord. It does not matter which wire goes to which side. Your two inside wires on the power cord are connected like this. One to the middle terminal on your 240 volt dryer terminal block and one is connected to the dryer case itself. Again it does not matter which wire goes to which ground. Make sure all of your connections are tight, as loose terminals eventually burn up. Do Not plug in your dryer power cord until everything is hooked up tight. I actually had a customer plug in his cord and then try to connect the wires to the dryer. The wires arced together and blew the terminals into molten metal which burned this customers hands and face. Do not do and electical repair unless you know what you are doing. On your cord the two straight terminals are line terminals, the round and L shaped terminals are grounds or neutrals. Good Luck, Appliance Specialists

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Hi, you might be able to find an 8 foot dryer power cord at your local building supply or hardware, or electrical supply store. It will be labelled for a dryer. First look at the dryer receptacle. The cords come in two types, 3 or 4 wire, so get the one that will match youyt receptacle. The wirte should be # 10 minimum.

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1 Answer

Frigidaire Laundry center blows circuit when w/d run at same time


Okay, here's the best I can do from this distance.

The combo unit is on a 30-amp, 220-volt circuit. One cord supplies both washer and dryer.

The breaker does not trip until the washer motor starts running simultaneous with the dryer drying.

My guess is that (if the combo unit is connected correclty to the one supply cord) the dryer motor runs off the 110 volt supplied by the red/white wires & the washer motor runs off the other 110 volt leg, black/white (could be vice-versa, but that's irrelevant).

The dryer heating element runs off the 220 volt supplied by the red/black wires.

There are two most likely causes (but not the only possibilities):

- The breaker is bad -- could just be oxidation on the breaker contacts in the bteaker box -- I havae seen this conditon -- small amounts of oxidation can cause the breaker to overheat and trip -- of course, the more current the load draws the hotter the breaker gets.

- One of the motors (washer or dryer) is beginnig to fail (windings beginning to short) and drawing more than rated current which is overloading the breaker.

Checking thes two theories requires some not-so-standard equipment, and some more-than-handyman expertise. And if neither of these theories pans out, the troubleshooting gets more complicated.

So, to address your original question, "Can I fix it myself, or should I hire someone?, I would say you should hire someone. This wirite-up may give them a head start.

Let me know if you have any questions.

Charlie

P.S.
A third possibility (only possible if this tripping condition ahs existed from the beginnig of the w/d installation) is that the power cord is connected to the unit such that both motors are powered by the same 110 volt leg. Not being there to assess this, I can't say how likely this is, but it's a long shot for sure.

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