Washer does not agitate, removed the agitator and the coupling just spins freely unless I pull up on it about 1/8-1/4 inch. Is it just the coupling or is something with the transmission?

Put old coupler back on transmission shaft. Can you now turn coupler? You should not be able to. If you can, grooves in coupler are stripped out. Replace coupler. Part # WH49X10042

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:


http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Kenmore-Parts/Washer-Parts/Model-11082994100/0582/0153200?pathTaken=

and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

If the bottom agitates and not the top, the problem is likely the 4 "agitator dogs" designed to allow the top agitator to turn only one way.

Look at the section on the Sears site for Agitator, basket and tub.

See the part "Dog, agitator "

Remove the fabric softener unit, lift the top agitator cap (use a screwdriver) and you should see a plastic part in the center of the top agitator with a 1/2" square drive.

Remove the drive and lift off the top agitator. Turning it over you should see the 4 "dogs", replace these and the top agitator should turn in one direction only.

Replace the 1/2" drive, the cap and fabric softener unit and the top agitator should work.

Also see the following illustrated description of the above.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=136&osCsid=0da65cea0e338fe930b1fde153a243f0

See the following Whirlpool Service manuals for top load, direct drive washers. They describe what happens in the transmission when the washer goes into spin mode:


WHIRLPOOL INST AND MAINTENANCE INCLUDING HOW TRANSMISSION WORKS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


WHIRLPOOL TRANSMISSION DESCRIPTION AND SPRINGS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf

Also see the Whirlpool Parts list for their Commercial washers, although the consumer models use the same transmission.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf


Basically whats happening is this.

When the washer goes into spin mode two plastic cams are forced together and raise a gear on the main agitator shaft that is supposed to keep the agitators from spinning. If the cams are worn (not necessarily broken) the gear doesn't lift high enough to completely disengage the agitators. We had the same problem. Ours was a major gear noise but a clicking could also be a symptom. A set of Whirlpool Agitate Cams (part number 62580/01) cost about $15.00.

It's a bit messy to fix (16 oz. of oil in the transmission) but very inexpensive.

See the following for how to remove the transmission.

In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators.

The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt. A 1/2" socket extension works well.

You don't have to remove the drum.

You can also see this site for removing the transmission.


ILLUSTRATED DESCRIPTION OF REMOVING CABINET THRU TRANSMISSION.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside, remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission. Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft, remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 15 Oz of 80-90 weight gear oil. (Available at auto parts stores)


Remove the transmission cover.

Pull off the spin pinion.

Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.

The two plastic agitate cam parts pull right off. Don't lose the washer on top of the cams.

Replace the cams, washer, spring and clip, pinion, oil (assuming you drained the oil first), cover and clutch parts.

Line up the transmission so that the release cam on the brake drum will snap onto the clutch spring retaining clip and put all parts back in the washer.

I'd also check the Motor Coupler (a $15.00 item that tends to wear) while you have the transmission out.


The basic tools are screwdriver, small socket set with up to a 1/2" socket, vice grips or good pliers (to remove and replace clips)

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer.

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=110.91310100

Next, see the Whirlpool / Kenmore Service Manual for top load, direct drive washers.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

I'd pull the cabinet, pump, motor and transmission and check the clutch.first.

See the following.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

Possibilities are:

1. Neutral Drain Assembly Main Spin Gear destroyed,

2. Agitate Cams / Springs weak or damaged.

The best (and messiest ) solution is to pull the transmission and drive assembly and check the clutch and brake assembly's.

If they look OK, I'd pull the cover off the transmission and check the internal plastic pieces.

Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside, remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission. Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft, remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 14 - 15Oz of oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams, gears etc.

Fortunately, these machines are relatively easy to fix and if any of the parts in the transmission are damaged, most are relatively inexpensive.

Following is the Whirlpool parts list for their commercial version washers although the consumer models use the same parts.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf


Here is another Whirlpool PDF on how their transmissions work.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf

As an aside, when ours had a couple of major problems (grinding when spinning and no agitate unless the lid was raised and lowered a couple of times) we found that replacing the agitate cams and Neutral Drain Assembly including some 80-90 weight gear oil cost less than $30 vs. $170 for a new transmission.
.

You have a two piece agitator held onto the top of the transmission shaft by a 7/16 inch bolt which turns off counter clockwise . Pop off the top of the agitator cover with a screwdriver in the slot to see it. Remove the bolt and pull out the entire agitator. There are four little dogs in the middle of the agitator that the teeth are wore off, these need to be replaced, you pull the agitator apart to do this, or find a service store and take it there. It is very simple.

Check to see of bolt is tight that holds agitator in place

You need to get an agitator repair kit. Remove the cap on the agitator. Some have a second inside plastic cover/cap. You will need a long extension and rachet and 1/2" socket to remove the hold down bolt. Remove and replace the parts with the kit parts. Replace the cover. 10 minute repair... online kit is about $13.00.

Pull the agitator out and check the drive collar splines.If you have the model I think you have just pull straight up on the agitator. Once removed you will see the drive collar with a 7/16 head bolt,remove it and pull off the collar.First before pulling it off spin it if splines are stripped it will spin freely.

remove cap or dispencer,,,pull the plastic cover up with you hand,,,now you need a 1/2 inch wrectet,,,remove bolt holding auger (top agitator) then pull up agitator..onthejob

remove agitator cap ,,looking down in agitator removre the plastic seal with a firm yank,,now you can see the agitator hold down nut,,remove that bolt with 1/2 inch nut driver or wrekit,,pull agitator..if clothes is jammin it down take you belt and slide under agitator,,and pull booth ends ,,but away from your fast ,may come up fast..always unplug

If the washer fills up with water and you hear the motor running but the agitator doesn’t move, the agitator coupling is the most likely problem. First pump the water out by turning the timer to spin. Once the water is out, turn the washer off. Now pull up on the agitator until it comes off (it may be hard to pull off). Now that the agitator is off, you can see the agitator coupling, reach down and try to turn the coupling. If the coupling turns freely, it is striped out and needs to be replaced.