Question about Nikon 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6 G ED-IF AF-S VR DX Nikkor Lens

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Slight blur shooting variety of subjects

I am consistently getting just slight blurring when shooting a variety of subjects. Most recent was a city skyline (clear day, gray sky) using autofocus. Camera is D80; lens is the above; shutter speed 1/320; aperture is F10; manual exposure; focal length 34mm; distance from subject 1-2 kilometers. The subject was a tall building; background grey sky.

Is there a way that I can test to determine that autofocus is "tuned" correctly?

I am moderately near-sighted and compose with my glasses on. I am also new to this camera and lens. It may well be something I am not doing right but I did not have this problem with my Coolpix 995.

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It is just a possibility but you may have overrode the auto focus. If you accidentally move the focussing ring it disables the auto focus.

Posted on Oct 06, 2008

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How to take certain types of pics for my college class in photography. I am trying to take action photos and in them, I am supposed to use shutter priority.

Hi, Tina,
Hope I can help - it's quite simple really. Shutter priority means that you set the shutter speed (as in 1/30 sec, 1/60 sec etc) and the camera sets the lens aperture (as in f4, f5.6, f8 etc). It is up to you to choose the ISO rating, but for action I would use either ISO 200 or ISO 400.
If you use a slow shutter speed (such as 1/30 second) you will need to use a sturdy tripod to support the weight of the camera and lens (you've not specified which lens you are using, so I'll assume a zoom with a maximum focal length of 200mm). You will also need to use a remote release to fire the shutter, in order not to impart camera shake.
By using a slow shutter speed, you will automatically impart blur to the image - check on the monirot, and if the image is too blurred, choose a faster shutter speed (i.e. 1/60 second) - don't forget, the camera will take care of the aperture.
The angle from which you take the photos will also affect the result - if you are 'head-on' to the action, then there will be little sign of movement, whereas if you shoot from the side, then movement will be across the frame and will show to a far greater effect. A compromise is to stand at about 45 degrees to the action, so you get movement but the subject is still identifiable.
For frozen motion, just select the camera's fastest shutter speed, which on your camera appears to be 1/4000 sec. You will need to increase the ISO rating as well for this to be usable, especially on a less-than-sunny day - ISO 800, or even ISO 1600 may be necessary. I am assuming you do not have access to infra-red remote triggering equippment, so you'll need your remote release again. As there is a perceptible time-lag between deciding to fire the shutter and actually doing so, anticipate where you want the subject to be in the photo, then fire the shutter before it reaches that point.
Some people like to use burst shooting mode to ensure that get a selection of images, from which they can choose one or more, but since this is a college assignment, I would suggest practising until you can pre-visualise what Cartier-Bresson termed 'the decisive moment'.
Panning fills some people with dread, as it is the least predictable way to capture motion, yet can provide the most spectacular images. The camera will need to be hand-held for this - as I am sure you know, received wisdom states that when hand-holding a camera, the slowest usable shutter speed is the reciprocal of the focal length (i.e. for a 200mm lens, a shutter speed of 1/250 sec is considered the minimum) - this is to prevent camera movement during the exposure. With panning, we actually want camera movement to be plain, so choose a shutter speed of 1/60 sec or 1/125 sec. Again, a high ISO rating will be helpful - say ISO 400 or ISO 800. This is to ensure a reasonably small aperture, thus increasing depth of field.
Panning usually works best when the subject is parallel with the photographer, or maybe a little before this point, and the technique is very simple. You merely look through the viewfinder at your subject, making sure it is approximately in the middle of the frame, and, continuing to swing the camera at the same rate as the subject is moving, release the shutter just before the point you have selected as likely to give the best result. With a DSLR, of course, everything goes black as the mirror swings up, but it is vital to keep panning smoothly, because now is when the image is being recorded.
When the mirror returns to its usual position, if the subject is still in the viewfinder, there is a very good chance you have taken a successsful shot. Well Done !!
You haven't specified the subject matter for this assignment, but unless you are on safari in Africa shooting Klipspringers, chances are they will be people or pets. People are easiest - on a running track, they travel at a reasonable speed, and you have the chance to make adjustments in between each lap. Cyclists, unless on a velodrome or short city-centre circuit, pass less frequently, and at a greater velocity. Racing cars - possibly a little optimistic for your first attempt. Dog or horse shows may provide suitable subjects as well.
Main thing is - practice ! That is the great advantage of digital - instant replay, to check for areas to be improved, and almost unlimited storage. One final bit of advice - although RAW gives better results, JPEG writes to the SD card far faster, so you won't miss the one perfect shot of the day waiting for the data to be written to your card. Good Luck !!

Sep 25, 2016 | Nikon D3200 24.2 MP CMOS Digital SLR with...

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The pictures are blurred, with somewhat stripes? even when transferred to computer, the pictures are blurred. why is this?

clean battery and sd card contacts, usually helps, light sensor may be shot, does it do it with flash too?

Mar 27, 2015 | Samsung Es70 Silver

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My 100-400 mm EF canon takes too long to auto focus.I like to take pictures of flying birds and i get alot of blurred pictures even at a shutter speed of 1/3200sec. I use the #2 position on the stabilzer...

Manually pre-focus to the distance you'd expect then the auto focus won't have far to move/lock on. Only turn the IS off if you are using a tripod. The auto focus works by detecting a difference in contrast so if the conditions are not compatible i.e a BG the same as the subject it will 'hunt and peck'.

Jan 26, 2014 | Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 IS USM Lens

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Nikon collpix l810 lens shake automatically

The Nikon Coolpix L810 is a great camera capable of taking very good and sharp pictures, even in bad light conditions. It has a Vibration reduction, that makes it even possible to shoot pictures without tripod when you zoom in very far. If normally with the same lens length you should need 1/200 of a second your camera should still be capable of taking that picture with only the same blur from shake, with 1/50 of a second. But if you ever should use a tripod. make sure you switch off that feature. Because the Vibration reduction, works with a staking lens element. that should compensate the movement of the camera, by shaking in the correct direction opposite to the movement of the camera. The element will still shake and so blur a picture, when the camera is placed on a tripod.
Don't try to shoot pictures with the zoom on full extension, in bad light conditions. That also won't work. Lots of things can be done with the camera, but to everything is a limit. Most of the time that limit comes sooner when there is less light.

Jan 06, 2014 | Nikon COOLPIX L810

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Blurry pictures of moving wildlife

check shutter speed, problem to slow, increase aperture if light level permits hand shake can also blur image.If in full auto mode change to manual settings mount camera onto tripod THIS WILL SOLVE HAND SHAKE PROBLEMS the most common cause of blurred images.

Nov 22, 2013 | Canon EF 75-300mm f/4-5.6 IS USM Lens

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What are the best settings to use the Opteka 500MM Mirror Lens with a Pentax K-7. Also when you you add the 2.0X teleconverter with this lens?

These big lenses are very slow and cannot deliver much light to your camera. Obviously, you can't open the aperture any wider than f8 as specified by the lens itself. In the old days, most inexpensive cameras were fixed focus at f8 with a shutter speed of 1/100 sec. That's a good place to start with this lens without the doubler.

If the pictures are too dark, you can't open the lens any wider so your only option is to reduce the shutter speed.

That means that motion of the shooter or the subject will be more inclined to cause blurring so you need to be shooting from a tripod with a remote shutter release and/or a delayed shutter release setting.

If the test picture is too light, I would first reduce the lens opening to the next stop, f9 or f11, then shoot another test shot. You could also increase shutter speed, or both o reduce the light reaching the camera sensor. Keep shooting test shots until you get the exposure you want.

Once you add the doubler, you compound this situation because it will further reduce the lens speed by about 2 f-stops, meaning that you have to start your tests at f-11 at 1/100 sec. or f-11 at 1/50 sec. This gives you far less flexibility to properly adjust exposure.

Further, you will have increased the magnification so much that a slight breeze or a fly landing on the lens can cause vibration and blur the picture.

Before you shoot any serious pictures, you need to experiment with this lens so that you know exactly what its capability is.

Jun 23, 2011 | Opteka 500mm f8 for Pentax K

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Len shaking when snapping

Presumably your images are blurred because of camera shake? What shutter speeds are you using? As a rule of thumb, don't use less than the focal length you are using so if shooting at 60mm, have a shutter speed faster than 1/60th of a second, if shooting at 200mm, make sure shutter speed is more than 1/200 of a second

Mar 05, 2010 | Nikon Nikkor 55-200mm f/4.5-5.6 G AF-S...

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Sigma 70-300 4-5.6 DL has some fungus & blur

Fungus etches the glass. This cannot be fixed by just removing the fungus. The lens has to be resurfaced, calibrated, coated and
well, you get the idea. lots of expensive precision equipment and a jig to recalibrate the focusing after you do all that.
Another 70-300 on Ebay is much less expensive.

Dec 18, 2009 | Sigma AF 70-300mm f/4.0-5.6 DL Macro Super...

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I want to take a very very clear snapshot of the vehicle so which c mount camera may i use and where it will be available

are referring to a moving vehicle? if yes, your zoom lens above would just be okay. i suggest that you set your camera to Time Priority and select at least 1/40 to have blur background. The key is to lock on the moving vehicle to the panning of your camera by twisting your body to the direction of the subject. This link gave some pointers to do this:

Oct 06, 2009 | ITT 60-300mm C-Mount Lens

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Blurred Images with Olympus E520

When operating any digital camera, the camera tries to capture the best focus and exposure for that particular scene. By pressing the shutter button half-way down, the focus and exposure is being set. There will be a green circle on the upper left hand corner of the screen, then your camera is ready to take the picture. Slowly depress the shutter the rest of the way down to take the picture.

Mar 23, 2009 | Olympus Zuiko 70-300mm f/4-5.6 Digital ED...

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