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The tensioner wheel needs to push on the back (the flat side) of the belt. It is a bit difficult to describe, but the way I do it is to loop the belt around the drum and motor pulley only (it will be very loose, but do it as though it wouldn't need the tensioner) then pull back the tensioner pulley and seat it to the back of the belt, so that when you release it, it removes all the slack.
Sorry I don't have a diagram I can direct you to. It is a bit confusing at first, but once you get it, you will be amazed at how simple it is.
to get at belt you will need to get true the front of dryer.When you have top up there should be 2 screws on both inside corners on front panel remove them and lift up and towards you the front panel should come off.After that look under drum .Sounds like your belt sliped off the idler pully you can then put belt back on and reverse the steps.If any more help needed feel free to ask hope i fixya:)
Squeaking usually comes from drum roller supports and/or the belt idler pulley needing lubricated. If the drum does not have drum roller supports under the drum, it will be equipped with a plastic drum glide the is located around the perimeter of the front drum facing. If this plastic wears down it will cause the drum to scrape against the metal bulkhead and make noise. If equipped, you need to replace the drum glide
The drum rollers (if equipped) can be lubricated with a light weight turbine oil (like the kind you would lubricate some ceiling fan motors with). Lubricate the roller wheels at the axle ONLY. Do not lubricate the wheels. The same is true for the idler pulley. Make sure you don't get any oil on the belt, or it will slip.
If you need instructions on how to reinstall the drive belt, repairclinic.com has dryer belt diagram illustrations under their "Repair Help" section. Look for the "Dryer Belt Diagram" link on the left hand side of the page. If your dryer is a GE model, you would use diagram M, D, or L (depending on the age of the dryer).
If you have questions, let me know. I hope this helps you.
You have to remove the front of the dryer to
access the drum. First unplug the dryer.There are screws at the bottom of the front to remove the lower section. Once you remove that you can get to the screws for the door section. The front of the drum rides on the inside of the front panel so when you remove the panel the drum will drop down. Try to keep the drum in place with something to hold it up. Remove the old belt and place the new belt around the drum. Slid the belt back to where the belt used to ride and then loop the belt around the motor and the tension wheel. Make sure the tension wheel is tightening the belt. Hold up the drum and put the front panel back on. You may need a helper to hold things while you do this. Rotate the drum by hand and make sure it moves smoothly. Plug it back in and give it a try. I hope this helps. Any questions feel free to ask. Please rate me so I know if I'm Helping. Thanks.
That is a hard thing to describe with out a diagram but I will try my best for you. First thing would be to put the belt around the motor. then take the idler pulley and pull it back and put it under both parts of the belt. This will supply the tension you need to keep the belt tight. If you are having trouble getting the the pulley inplace I would need to know the brand of dryer. In most cases if it fell off it is a whirlpool or a whirlpool made Kenmore. It that case the idler will mount directly underneath the shaft of the dryer just slightly to the left of the pulley on the motor. I really hope this helped you. mca0824
Pinot, usually the squeak on these 417's is coming from the drum ball and plastic bearing. Sometimes they crack and sometimes just need to be greased. Go to this link http://www3.sears.com/ and enter your model number, upper left hand corner. Follow the link and click on view diagram, page 1. Look at number 12 and 34. This is the drum hitch and plastic bearing. Your husband will have to remove the top and once he has the belt off, pull up on the drum to get it off the bearing, (plastic coupling that the ball sets into. If it's not cracked and the ball is is good shape, just grease it. If it's cracked and the ball is a chewed up, replace them both. This job is done better with 2 people cause it's not the easiest deal. You can find the part numbers on the parts link right next to view diagram. Let the cat know if you need any more help, Catriver.