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Fridge not cooling enough

The fridge seems to have difficulty staying as cold the past few days. It still makes ice but the ice is melting and driping through the outside ice dispencer. I can hear the compressor or at least the fan running. When I open the door I can tell its not as cold as it was a week ago. Any ideas how to trouble shoot?
Thanks Rob

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  • Expert
  • 27 Answers

Check compressor if it is working fine then check temperature thermostat. If they both are good then either your fridge has ran out of gas or the doors are not closing properly.

Posted on Nov 09, 2017

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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catriver
  • 878 Answers

SOURCE: Fridge/freezer

Denis, frosting back to the compressor is usually a sign of refrigerant overcharge. The fact that you noticed one of the other lines opened could indicate a wrong charge. You will need a cfc certified tech to check this thing out. This way he can check for a proper charge, restriction or a weak pumper...Catriver..post back.

Posted on Sep 04, 2006

fridgetech
  • 473 Answers

SOURCE: refrigerator compartment not cooling

If you are sure the fan in the freezer is running and you don't feel any air flow out of the top middle vent inside the fridge section, then the damper motor must be bad. The damper motor is behind that vent cover inside the fridge section.

Posted on Nov 16, 2007

22yooper
  • 828 Answers

SOURCE: Fridge not cooling compressor works intermitently

If the compressor starts and runs for a few seconds it could be the relay. Or it could be the compressor itself has failed. When a compressor starts and runs for a short period it is possible that the relay contacts are arced together which would have both the start and run winding in the motor engaged at the same time for more than 3 seconds. This would result in the compressor tripping out on the thermal overload. It depends on what type of relay your compressor has. If it is a thermal relay, unplugging the refrigerator for about 15 minutes would allow the relay to cool off and reset.

Posted on May 10, 2008

  • 489 Answers

SOURCE: Ice maker stopped after electric shutoff

You may have a problem with the computer control board in the ice maker.  Try this.  Turn off the icemaker for about 2 minutes.  
Turn on the ice maker and press the clear button.  Press and hold this button for 12 seconds to get it to force extract.  This will confirm that the motors will work and push the ice cubes out.  Afterwards, let it run by itself.  If it still doesn't make ice, you will need to replace the icemaker.

Posted on Sep 30, 2008

  • 399 Answers

SOURCE: the freezer has ice build up on vents

Cooling is poor For an overall understanding of how refrigerators should work, read about refrigerators in the How Things Work section of our website. A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas:

Evaporator coils
Condenser
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt. 

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

  • The defrost timer


  • The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)


  • The defrost heater


If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem 

Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator. 
also click the links below for more help
It's stopped completely 
It's not cool
Cooling is poor
It's noisy 
It leaks
The freezer compartment is icing up
The food in the refrigerator freezes
There's water dripping inside the refrigerator
The refrigerator never cycles off
The ice maker has a problem
There's an ice- or water-dispensing problem

Posted on Dec 06, 2008

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