If you go to searspartsdirect.com, type in your model number in the Search menu, then look under the "Bulkhead" menu option, you will see an illustration of your dryer. You will need to remove the heater box cover (item #5) to get to the heating element. The element should slide out of the bottom of the heater box housing. Removing the housing from the dryer first makes it easier. Sometimes you may need a little muscle in getting the heater coil to come out.
Have you checked the thermal cut-out(TCO)/hi limit thermostat? This is item #1 in the drawing. If your dryer runs, but does not heat, this is normally the culprit. You are right to assume you could have a heating element problem, but the element tends to be more resilient. In my experience with electric dryers, the thermal cut-out tends to go bad first. It's easier to check and easier to replace as it is mounted on the outside of the heater box. Check for the following:
With the heater box STILL installed, the TCO will be a small component mounted at the top of the heater box housing. The hi-limit thermostat will be mounted at the bottom of the heater box housing next to the ceramic terminal of the heating element. With the dryer UNPLUGGED, disconnect the wires to the TCO and do a resistance reading. It should read 0 ohms if good. Do the same with the hi-limit thermostat. It should also read 0 ohms if good. Last of all perform a reading across the leads of the heating element with the wires unplugged. You should get a reading of 9 - 13 ohms if it is good. If you determine the TCO or hi-limit thermostat to be bad, it is HIGHLY recommended that you replace them BOTH at the same time. They are sold as a set (part #279769). Failure to replace both components could result in part failure. The part number for the heating element is 4391960. I hope this helps you.
Your original posting stated that you "assumed" it was the element and that you weren't "entirely sure". I was trying to convey to you how to check out the other components to make sure. Glad you were able to fix your problem.
ladyhuntr,
Need your brand and model number in order to provide you with the information you need.
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All other parts were already checked out. The heating element was broken. My problem was not being able to get the element out of the housing or the housing off of the machine. The problem was that the screw that holds the housing in place can not be removed from the back of the machine. Therefore, I needed to lift the top to expose the screw and take it out. Once that was done, replacing the coil was no problem. It seems that this is the only model that doesn't have access to the housing screw from the back of the machine. Thanks for responing!
I need a diagram to show where the wires go when I replace the thermal cutoff connected to the heating element box.
I have a Kenmore Series 80 110.62842100 and the thermal cutoff went bad. I bought Kit 279769 that has the cutoff and the hi limit thermostat. I replaced the TC and the dryer is back to blowing heat. My question is concerning the suggestion to replace the thermostat as well. In looking at my current thermostat in the unit it appears to have one clip available for an electrical wire but the other end of the thermostat is connected to a white piece that has the heater coils plugged in on one side and the thermostat appears to be crimped to the white piece on the other. In other words the new thermostat has two clips available for leads like the TC but the old one in the until only has one clip and then the other end is crimped to the metal that has the coil plugged in on the other side. So, if that makes sense can I leave the thermostat out and should the unit still run fine?
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