Question about GE Profile PSW26P Stainless Steel Side by Side Refrigerator

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Ge profile fridge bottom freezing up

Hi There. we have changed the fan on the fridge due to it burning out with ice buildup' we also changed the stat as the fridge would not shut off which caused the ice buildup. the problem now is since the tech left it will still not shut off which leads me to believe that the problem was not the stat in the first place . any ideas and how to do the job myself .we have already spent $400.00 on this problem thanks for any help. Jambuttie

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  • jambuttie Mar 18, 2008

    just in case you need it model number PDA18LBMRBS

    and Serial Number HD303169V


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Found the problem .the compressor is not putting out enough cold to freeze the coils' only half the coils are freezing in the bottom of the fridge. the fan draws it's cold air from these coils and pulls it up to the top of the fridge where it's dispersed into the top half of the fridge' hence the stat never see's that it's cold enough to shut off the switch . in other words if the coils down below were all working a lot more colder air would be pulled up to the top and the stat would then shut off . Solution is to seek a refund from the service tech and buy a new fridge . it's not worth putting a new compressor into this one although it is only 5 years old hope this helps someone who has the same problem

Posted on Mar 19, 2008

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Just did a defrost due to large build up of ice. I took off the back panel of freezer and found fan was encased in ice.

No this time the fan was the cause of the ice build up and the fridge will be damaged if the fan problem is not resolved. What is the model number of your fridge?

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How do i fix a loud noise coming from my frigidaire glrs264za refrigirator?

Sounds like you have ice buildup next to the evaporator fan that circulates air inside the fridge. Ice buildup happens due to too much moisture - door open for extended periods, leaky door seal, heating system meant to de-ice the fridge not doing its job. You can approach this two ways. Unplug and leave both sides of the fridge open for at least 24 hours to let it thaw, or open up the fan cover and thaw it with a hair dryer (fridge unplugged ofcourse). Option two is faster, but more labor intensive. This wont solve the underlying problem of ice buildup, but will get rid of the noise for some time (likely months).

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The fridge is not cooling and the freeze is working. There is ice on back of the refrigerator and frosting up in the freeze on the back panel. The fan is running. Model number is 363.9527710 side by side

This refrigerator was made by GE for Kenmore.
The frost in the back of the freezer is telling you that you have and automatic defrosting problem.
This can be caused by the defrost timer:
The defrost heating element:
or wiring.

Most of the time the defrost control stops advancing so the unit never defrosts. This is what causes the ice to build up. There are 2 tabs on the defrost control face. Find the defrost control and the rotate the dial with a flat blade until the compressor shuts off. This is the defrost cycle. You should notice that it may start making weird noises in the defrost cycle. Pop Bang... etc.

What you can do to get about 3 good days of use out of it is to unplug the unit.. direct a fan into the freezer compartment with the contents removed for just over 2 hours. (makes a water mess!)
After the 2 hour period, re-load freezer contents and return the unit to normal use. It will work fine for up to 3 days and then start freezing up again.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,

Apr 09, 2011 | Kenmore Side by Side Refrigerator

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LG french door fridge - makes hideous noise - loose bearings? - whenever fan is running, which is several times an hour. Any idea what is causing it? Husband tried to grease the fan. It's really...

A broken fan blade can cause a noisy motor. or a buildup of ice can cause some noise. If thes aren't the case you will need to have the fan motor replaced.

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GE Profile PSS26PSTB refrigerator ice melts inside icemaker

when you open the freezer door do you hear the fan blowing,you could have a bad evap fan motor,also if there's ice on the back wall you have a defrost problem,take off the inside back wall of the freezer where the ice is,you need to shut the control off and melt out all the ice,g.e. has had alot of problems with their computer boards which is a very expensive part number WR49X10152 around 200 bucks,look behind the kick plate on the bottom of the fridge and hopefully the tech sheet will be there,it will tell you how to put the machine into defrost,do this first before you melt anything out or before you touch the control,i think you click the lite switches together 5 times to make it go into defrost,it should tell you on the tech sheet,if ithe heater doesn't come on you need to read out the heater with a meter to see if it's good also read out the defrost thermostat,you have to check the thermostat while it's cold if the t-stat warms up you won't be able to check it, you should change out the t-stat anyway so you can cut the wires going to the t-stat,bypass it by connecting the wire directly to the heater and click the lite switches 5 times and the heater should come on,if it does leave the heater on to help you melt it if the fan is running on the freezer side,click the lite switches 5 times and the fan should shut off and then you'll know it's in defrost,the heater should come on ,if the heater and t-stat read good and it won't go into defrost then it 's the board,also you can take out the board in the back of fridge ,unplug it first and look at the board for burn marks on the back or on the soldered spots,the board tells it when to go into defrost and melt the ice off the coil and like i said g.e.has had a lot of problems with the board,if you need any more help let me know,good luck

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1 Answer

Ice on coils on back of freezer on Kitchenaid superba side byside

you have a defrost problem,could be several things ,first when you open freezer door do you hear the fan blowing,if not bad evap fan motor,if it's good check t-stat and heater,you'll need a meter to read them out, or if the wires are the plug in type going to t-stat unplug the t-stat and plug wire dirrectly to heater bypassing t-stat and if heater comes on get a new t-stat,also there is an adaptive defrost board located in the fridge side,if you find your tech sheet,take off kick plate and you should see it under the fridge taped on the kick plate or on the side and it will tell you how to get the fridge into defrost,i think you click the light switches 4 or 5 times together and it goes into defrost,if that's what the sheet says and it doesn't go into defrost it's probably the adaptive defrost whenyou find the part that is bad melt out all the ice with hair dryer,hope this helps

Nov 10, 2009 | KitchenAid Superba KSRG25FK Side by Side...

1 Answer

My fridge has ice build-up in the freezer behind the inside wall. this ice is on the freezer elements, because of the buildup, the fridge is not cooling.

This sounds like a problem with the defrost circuit. It is likely that the evaporator coil is clogged with ice due to the defrost heater / circuitry not functioning. This can be caused by a failure of any one or more of the following components:

1) Defrost timer. Defrost timer may be "stuck" - failing to advance from a cooling cycle to a defrost cycle. May be found in the toe space of many fridges, but not all.

2) Defrost terminator. This is a thermal sensor that is secured (usually with a clip) to the refrigerant line close to the evaporator coil in / behind the freezer compartment. If this component fails to detect a rising temperature, it never allows the fridge to return to the cooling mode again.

3) Defroster Heating coil. This is a simple, relatively low wattage heater secured to or near the evaporator coil. It is powered through the defrost timer and shut off by the defrost terminator. If the coil is burned out or otherwise "open", it will not heat to melt ice buildup on the evaporator coil.

4) Fan. The fan is located near the evaporator coil. If the fan is unable move air from the freezer to the fridge, the compressor runs endlessly because cold air is not directed into the fridge compartment - where the thermostat is located.

5) Condenser coil. If the condenser has a "furry jacket" it's long overdue for a cleaning. Gently vacuum lint / dust / dirt collected on the coil to increase efficiency. This is probably not the problem - but it probably needs to be done anyway.

Most of these steps will require hand tools, schematics (specific to your model), electrical test equipment, etc. Be careful to not use sharp instruments that may puncture refrigerant lines or electrical insulation. Allow the ice to defrost with the fridge powered off with the freezer door opened, or place a pot of hot water inside, hair dryer directed at the coil, etc. Access to the evaporator coil is usually from the freezer compartment (back wall) and will require removal of any ice maker installed.

I hope this helps!

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1 Answer

Fridge/freezer not cold. Fan or compressor not running....

possibly main pcb faulty but may just be in defrost mode where the fan and compressor will not run . In which case the ice build up will be due to faulty defrost heater or stat

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1 Answer

Viking Imperial Fridge... Purchased in early 90's

what is the stat set to ? A common problem with bottle coolers that work the same way, is people turn the stat to high ( very cold). This then drops the evaporator temperature so low it freezes up, in turn this stops the airflow and the ice build up worsens until you get the result you have, a warm fridge due to no airflow at all. It could be short of gas as this can cause it. A faulty defrost heater / timer can also cause it if its fitted as can a faulty fan that stops spinning. Due to the age of the unit I would try turning the stat back to 3/4 and see how that goes. it will get cold but will be more gradual, but hopefully shouldn't freeze up.

Mar 19, 2008 | Refrigerators

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