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Shut-off arm won't fall in Maytag ice maker

This is a Maytag side-by-side. The tag on the front says, "Maytag Plus". We bought it 5 years ago.

The ice maker works but when it dispenses ice and lifts the shut-off arm, the arm stays up. It doesn't fall back down. When I reach and and move the arm, I can move it to any position, but it sticks there.

Ever seen this before? Any suggestions?
This seems like a minor issue that should be easy to solve. I hate to call a tech and pay the $70 minimum for a such a simple thing.

Thanks.

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  • 4 more comments 
  • cheri5858 May 31, 2008

    We have a similar problem. Our Frigidaire ice maker arm sticks in the up position and doesn't release the ice. Any help would be appreciated.

  • lturner57 Jun 11, 2008

    I have a Kenmore and the arm does the same thing. Once I tap it down it releases ice cubes. Once new ice is formed I have to again manually tap the arm down. What do I do????

  • Anonymous Jul 19, 2008

    I have a Kenmore with the same issue. I was hoping to find the answer here.

  • Anonymous Sep 04, 2008

    Kenmore ice maker in top freezer section of refrigerator - shut off arm locks in up position after cycle of ice drops.

  • Anonymous Sep 21, 2008

    I have a whirlpool and it has started doing the same thing. In my internet search, I just saw a suggestion to take the ice maker out and let it sit at room temp for a day or so. I am going to give that a try.

    Another suggestion I saw out there was that there is a spring that might need replaced.

    I googled "ice maker problem with shut off arm"

  • manatee_jax Apr 02, 2009

    We are having the same problem with our LG French door fridge bought in 2007. This ice maker is in the door. Have tried the shut/off-leave off-turn back on (don't forget to remove any ice if it's in the door). Sometimes that works, sometimes it doesn't. It's never permanently fixed. I'm afraid we are going to break the arm sometimes. Still have not located a permanent fix.

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5 Suggested Answers

  • 87 Answers

SOURCE: Maytag refridgerator leaking water down the front

It sounds as though you may have a 'dodgey' water solenoid valve which is allowing a constant flow through the valve. When the water enters the cabinet it goes into a double solenoid valve which splits the suply to the ice machine and the water supply. This valve can get limescale build up preventing it from closing properly. This is really the only control you have over the water supply. The solution I would suggest is replacing this valve. However I would suggest getting a professional to do this as you would then get some sort of guarantee on the work carried out. This valve is located on the rear of the cabinet normally on the RHS. Hope this is of some help.

Posted on Sep 11, 2007

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: ice and water dispenser for Maytag H20 not working

Here's what you do...........
call maytag 1-888 4maytag, Tell them your problem... they will ask for your model # and serial #, tell them you know what the problem is its that you need a new high voltage board and you have gone on-line and you know that it is the problem. they will send you a high voltage board and you call them back and they will send a repair man all for free. I called 12-11-07 and am starting a 3 to 4 business day count down to see how they do. Meanwhile im listening to this hunk o #$#@ clatter and have lost the use of 2 rooms due to the anoying noise.

Posted on Dec 11, 2007

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: Maytag plus MSD2756GEQ ice maker not working

I had similar problem in that the fan in the freezer that blows freezing air into freezer and over to fridge was not working. Fridge was running warm (over 40 deg and freezer up near 20) Service call around $160 with new fan.

Posted on Apr 12, 2009

  • 1218 Answers

SOURCE: Ice maker stopped working

Good day,
A step by step procedure should resolve your problem. If the dispenser is working, you can skip that step.

First step is to take a small paper cup of water and fill the cavity until it is near full. With the ice maker turned on, close freezer door and wait 3 hours to see if it harvests. If not, the ice maker is bad, and must be replaced. If the cubes harvest then.......
Three possibilities.
1. The water supply from the house is not delivering water to the water valve. Shut off the house at the meter, disconnect the line going to the water valve, and with the line pointed into a bucket, have someone turn the valve back on for a 15 second count. The water should come out smartly. If not, the line and it's fittings will have to be replaced.
2. The fill tube from the back of the machine that feeds water into the back of the ice maker is frozen up. You will have to remove the ice maker to visually inspect that tube. If blocked, it needs to be defrosted, but use caution. Too much heat too fast will start to melt plastic and vinyl parts you don't want melted.
If this is the case, then once cleaned out, you will have to change the water valve located in the back bottom rear of the machine because it is leaking during the off cycle.
3. If everything checks O.K. up to this point, you will have to purchase and install a new water valve, and install it.
P.S. Under very rare occasions the electric circuity in the ice maker will fail to send a signal to the water valve. Although rare, it can happen, in which case the best option is to replace the ice maker and water valve.

Posted on May 25, 2010

  • 2841 Answers

SOURCE: The ice-maker shutoff arm in

The arm should move to the up position just before dumping the next batch of ice thus preventing ice from piling up on the arm. After the ice is dumped the arm goes back down. Once the ice bin if full the arm cannot go down and this shuts the production of ice off. The arm will be supported on one or both ends. Make sure it is securely in place. Pull the arm to the up (off) position and then come back in a couple of hours to make sure no ice is being made. If it still is making ice then the control module or shutoff switch may be bad. There are 2 types of ice makers. One in which all the parts can be replaced individually and one in which there are bunched together in a control module. If there is a knob, pull that off first. Module units have holes in the face plate marked with a letter and do not have a separate shutoff switch. Component units have no holes and will have exposed gears. If you see no holes pry off the face plate. Now click this link on the procedure to test the shutoff switch on a component unit. http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/icemaker/check/shutoffswitch.php

Posted on Jul 19, 2010

Testimonial: "We found the problem was caused by the frig being unlevel, so we didn't need to use this advice, but I think the advice was very clear and thorough."

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