Hi I am installing a 48"x32" shower receptor with a waffle bottom and my question is where exactly do I pre drill holes and what type of screw (like durarock screw) do I use. Is the head of the the screw to be flush with the nailing flange. does the tile hide the screws

Hello, Nancy -

I suggest you pre-drill holes in the wood -- evenly spaced holes, all in a row, so that later on you can drill screws into the concrete anchors you will drill into the brick or the concrete between the bricks.

After pre-drilling holes in the wood, measure how far apart the holes are. Determine where on the brick wall you want to drill to insert the concrete anchors (which will accept the screws to hold the wood on the wall). Mark on the brick wall where the drilling for the anchors (to match up with the holes drilled in the wood) should be. Drill into the brick or cement between the bricks.

Then, assuming the hole measurements on the wood match up to the drilled holes in the wall, attach the wood to the wall with the proper anchor bolts/screws.

You may find these directions for attaching a ledger board to a masonry wall instructive:
https://www.doityourself.com/stry/how-to-attach-a-ledger-board-to-a-masonry-wall

Best wishes.

Are you sure there are no existing holes? I have seen where they are actually covered by the material/felt that they staple to the bottom. On the other hand, if it doesn't have holes, try this. I will assume that the feet have a course type wood screw thread. Take a piece of cardboard and cut it to a 4" X 4" square, this should be enough to cover the corner of the sofa. (if not make it as big as needed) Locate the wood corner of the sofa and mark that area on the cardboard. Now you have a template for your feet. Given the center of the wood location on the cardboard, punch a hole through it. This is where you will have to hold the cardboard to the bottom and with a drill, mark a hole on the sofa. Repeat this for as many legs it has. Now judging what size screw the feet have is a matter of gauging it, like stick it into a straw, or next to a pencil. You want a drill bit smaller than the screw size. (15% smaller is good) When you drill the sofa wood, I suggest measuring the screw of the foot and mark the drill bit for that depth. (a small piece of masking tape around the bit will do fine- blue painters tape works better) Once you have drilled all required holes for the feet, proceed to screw them on. If they are a bit tight, or not going all the way in, use your drill bit and make minor adjustments to the depth or diameter of the drilled hole.

Hi

You did not mention any additional information about your problem except replacing shower door.However use basic hand tools to complete the job.

Try this following general steps :-
1. Remove the doors by lifting up on one door at a time and then pulling each out. The top of the door has rollers attached to it, and the rollers rest on the inside of the top rail of the frame. Set the doors aside.
2. With your drill, remove the two screws on each end of the top rail, located on the inside of the shower frame. Then lift off the top rail of the shower frame.
3. Use your box knife to cut the caulk on the side and bottom rails of the shower frame. Shower frames are caulked on the outside where they meet with the walls and floor of the shower.
4. Use your drill to remove the screws from the side rails. There will be two screws on each rail, securing it to the shower stall. Then, take the rails out. Remove the screws from the bottom rail and take it out.
5. Use your tape measure to measure the old side rails, top rail and bottom rail. With a pencil, mark the lengths on each new rail. Use your hacksaw to cut each rail. Hold a side rail in the exact location where the old rail was located. With your pencil, mark the screw holes on the shower wall. The new shower frame screw holes may not line up with the old shower frame screw holes. Use your drill and 3/16-inch drill bit to drill new holes if necessary. If the shower walls are ceramic, use the concrete drill bit. If the shower walls are fiberglass, use the multipurpose 3/16-inch drill bit.
6. Insert the 3/16-inch anchors into the holes that you drilled. Put the side rail into position and insert the screws into the holes. Use your drill and Phillips head drill bit to tighten the screws. Place the bottom rail into position and mark the holes. Drill new holes if necessary and install the anchors. Insert only one screw at the end where you installed the first side rail. Lift up the loose end of the bottom rail and slide the second side rail into place. Mark the holes. Remove the side rail and drill the new holes using the 3/16-inch drill bit. Insert the anchors and put the side rail back into place. Insert the screws and tighten with your drill using the Phillips head drill bit.
7. Set the top rail directly onto the side rails. In each end of the top rail, insert the two self-drilling screws until the top is secured to the sides. Insert the tube of clear caulk into the caulking gun. Cut the end off of the tube with your box knife. Caulk the side rails and the bottom rail to the shower walls on the outside of the shower. Re-hang the shower doors by lifting each door and placing the rollers on the inside of the top rail.
Also giving you some links from where you can find a detailed information regarding replacing shower doors.
http://www.diynetwork.com/how-to/how-to-replace-a-shower-door/index.html
http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/how-to/intro/0,,214441,00.html
Thanks for contacting fixya.com
Please do get back to us for further query.

If you used the correct drill size, the anchors should fit in the hole by softly taping them in with a hammer. Make sure the anchors are inserted before you attach anything to them. When the screw is used with them, they will expand and hold in place.

The first thing you can do is to drill the exact hole for the tox.After drilling,put the tox to the hole and hang the shower caddy and then you can put the screw.

The picture I found...

http://www.discountbicycles.co.uk/biz/product.php/6301/4678/push_mtb_standard_black_carrier_rack

looks exactly like a Blackburn rack...

http://www.webersports.com/store/Blackburn-MT-1-Mountain-Rack-P1322C195.aspx

which shows the top attachment hardware better.

The rack connects at both bottom points with screws through pre-drilled holes that are present above the rear wheel dropouts on many road and mountain bikes, but FEW racing frames.

The top front end of the rack uses either one or two of the supplied metal braces to mate it somewhere like a seatstay bridged.

See this, first picture...

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Luggage_carrier
You may have to get creative with YOUR frame. Don't drill holes in it. Ask a bike shop for options. There are brackets to make up for lack of pre-drilled holes.

Hi, If you are talking about the slide rail (part that the shower handset clicks into) then there are covering caps hiding the screws underneath, 1 at the top of the rail, and 1 at the bottom. You will need a scraper or spatula or fine flat screwdriver to simply, but carefully flip them off in order to gain access to the screws behind. Have a look to see what type of screw has been used to fix the rail to the wall, and a use the correct screwdriver to turn clockwise and tighten up the screws. Take caution doing this and use a hand screw driver not a power drill, and turn until it feels tight enough that the rail does not wobble or feel loose any more. Any excess pressure in tightening could crack your tiles if the holes are drilled through them. Hope this was of some help to you.

There is no single answer that I can give you because it will vary due to material you are mounting to. If you are going to be mounting on ceramic tile or fiberglass shower wall I would recommend you use the plastic anchors that come with the bracket and mounting screws. Use drill size 3/16 drill holes and insert anchors. Mount bracket and screw in place. If you have hollow wall with nothing but sheetrock to hold the bracket I would get small butterfly anchors from hardware store and drill hole slightly larger than the wings on fastener when they are folded back along side the screws.If you have a wood backer board behind shower wall then drill holes with 1/8 inch bit and use screws long enough to reach through shower wall and sheet rock and mount bracket. Hope this helps you. Thanks P.S. If you have to drill thru ceramic tile you will need a carbide tipped bit.

I repaired the broken "clamshell" of my Waring Pro WMK300 Professional Belgium Waffle Maker by replacing the original screws with a pair of (black metal) #8 x 1.125 inch flat-head machine screws and anti-vibration lock-nuts. These nuts have a nylon insert to prevent loosening. The assembly is now strong enough to pick up by the handle.
I drilled into the original plastic pits to create through-holes. I chose screws just long enough to fill the anti-vibration lock-nuts without protruding. You will need to hold each nut with a wrench or pliers while turning the screw into the nylon of the nut. Tighten just until the waffle iron assembly is snug, then another 1/8 turn. The torque should increase only during this last step.
The nuts are visible when I flip the iron, but I don't mind - they just remind me that the iron is now stronger than factory design.

On my double oven the bottom door was not closing by at least 21/2 inches the upper door would allow the light to stay on . Upon close examination this problem appeared to be the door was too low which did not allow the gasket to seat in the oven cavity, holding the door open. new hinges and receptors did not resolve this condition.This is how I corrected this condition. 1 open the doors one at a time and lock the hinges.2 remove the doors from the receptors (be careful they are heavy) and set aside. 3 remove mounting screws holding oven in cabinet. 4 slide oven forward enough to hold onto receptor sockets on left and right sides lower and upper 5 remove receptor sockets by removing the screws in front of oven(be careful to hold on to the receptor so it doesnt fall behind oven into cabinet)7 with a center punch punch a start point 1/8 inch above the existing screw holes and drill appropriate size hole for screw THE HOLES MUST MATCH UPPER AND LOWER RECEPTOR OR THE SCREWS ON THE LOWER DOOR WILL SCRATCH THE UPPER DOOR .8 attach receptors to oven in new holes 9 slide oven back into cabinet and replace screws removed in step three 10 attach doors into receptors and push locks forward into receptor cavity attach lower door first and check for operation then upper door open slowly and check enough clearance exists for the screws on the lower door miss the upper door . If more clearance is needed elongate the holes drilled earlier(repeat steps 1 through 5) and slide receptor up on upper door. NOTE The receptors are not in a sealed space in the oven cavity and are not exposed to any heat. Periodically check the screws for tightness. After performing this procedure Both doors close all the way and the light is no longer a problem Now 20 minutes cook time MEANS 20 MINUTES COOK TIME.
HOPE THIS RESOLVES YOUR PROBLEM !!!!!