How do i change the belt?

Installing a New Belt
NOTE: No tools are necessary to install a belt. The use of a
screwdriver or other tool to pry or stretch a belt may cause
damage to the pulleys and ultimately destroy the new belt.
1. Remove the crank handle.
2. Remove the two hex screws from the top, right side of
the planer.
3. Remove the two, small cross head screws securing the
side panels to the top of the planer.
4. Lift the side panel up out of the slot in the base and
remove the panel from the machine. Notice the grooves
inside the belt.
5. Start the belt on the top pulley (P) with 3 grooves on the
pulley, as shown in Figure 22.
6. Guide the belt between the lower pulley and the height
adjustment screw (Q), as shown in Figure 23.
7. With three grooves engaged on the large pulley, rotate
the pulley clockwise. Keep pressure on the edge of the
belt to keep the grooves engaged on the small pulley.
8. Continue pressure on the side of the belt and rotate
the large pulley while hopping the belt further onto the
pulleys, as shown in Figure 24.
9. All of the belt grooves should be engaged in the final
position and the pulleys should rotate smoothly.
10. Reinstall the side cover and the screws. Do not
overtighten the self-tapping screws.

Disconnect the battery, locate the idler bracket that adjust the tension on the belt. Loosen the bracket and unhook the belt off of the Idler bracket(no need to remove belt unless in the way) Remove water pump when car is cooled down. Loosen bolts that hold the water pump on and remove pump. Put new one on and reverse process. Replace your antifreeze/ water. Start car for thirty seconds. Stop car, look for leaks and top off antifreeze. Done deal.

Drive Belts

• INSPECTION
• ADJUSTMENT
• REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Print

INSPECTION

See Figures 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5
Check the condition and tension of all drive belts every 12,000 miles, or at least once a year. Loose drive belts can lead to poor engine cooling and diminished alternator, power steering pump, air conditioning compressor, or emission air pump output. A belt that is too tight places a strain on the bearings in the driven component.

Fig. Fig. 1: There are typically 3 types of accessory drive belts found on vehicles today

Fig. Fig. 2: An example of a healthy drive belt

Fig. Fig. 3: Deep cracks in this belt will cause flex, building up heat that will eventually lead to belt failure

Fig. Fig. 4: The cover of this belt is worn, exposing the critical reinforcing cords to excessive wear

Fig. Fig. 5: Installing too wide a belt can result in serious belt wear and/or breakage
Replace any drive belt that is glazed, worn, cracked, or stretched to the point where correct adjustment tension is impossible. If two belts are used to drive a component, always replace both belts when replacement is necessary. After installing a new belt, run the engine for ten minutes, shut OFF the engine and recheck the belt tension. Readjust if necessary.

ADJUSTMENT

See Figures 6, 7, 8, 9 and 10

Fig. Fig. 6: Engine belt tension chart-2.2L engines

Fig. Fig. 7: Engine belt tension chart-1987-89 2.5L engines

Fig. Fig. 8: Engine belt tension chart-2.6L engines

Fig. Fig. 9: Engine belt tension chart-1990-93 models

Fig. Fig. 10: Engine belt tension chart-1994-95 models
Two popular methods of checking drive belt adjustment are; the Belt Tension Gauge Method and the Belt Deflection Method. The former requires a special gauge and the latter requires a straight edge and scale or just a good eye for measurement. The deflection method will be used in the following belt replacement instructions. A rule of thumb for checking belt tension by the deflection method is to determine the midpoint between two pulleys of the drive belt and press down at that point with moderate thumb pressure. The belt should deflect to the measurement indicated in the following installation procedures. Adjustment is necessary if the belt is either too loose or too tight.

WARNING A belt adjustment which is either too loose or too tight will eventually damage the accessory that belt is driving. A too loose adjustment allows free-play in the belt which could transfer a whipping motion or shock to the accessory drive pulley. Similarly, a belt which is too tight will preload the accessory bearings, leading to early failure.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

See Figure 11
Raise the front of the vehicle, support on jackstands and remove the lower splash shield if access is hampered due to space limitations when changing drive belts.

Fig. Fig. 11: Support the vehicle, then remove the lower right side splash shield for access to the drive belts
2.2L Engines
A/C COMPRESSOR DRIVE BELT
See Figures 12, 13 and 14

Fig. Fig. 12: A/C compressor drive belt adjusting points-2.2L engines

Fig. Fig. 13: Loosening the locking screws for A/C compressor drive belt removal

Fig. Fig. 14: Removing the A/C compressor drive belt from under the vehicle

1. Loosen the idler pulley bracket pivot screw and the locking screw.
2. Remove the belt and install a replacement.
3. Using a breaker bar and socket apply torque to the welded nut provided on the mounted bracket to obtain proper tension.
4. Tighten the locking screw first, followed by pivot screw. Tighten to 40 ft. lbs. (55 Nm).

ALTERNATOR DRIVE BELT (CHRYSLER TYPE)
See Figures 15 and 16

Fig. Fig. 15: Alternator belt adjustment-2.2L engine

Fig. Fig. 16: Loosening the locking screw for alternator drive belt removal
If removal of the alternator belt is required, the A/C belt must first be removed.

1. Loosen the pivot nut, locking screw, and the adjusting screw.
2. Remove the belt and install a replacement.
3. Adjust to specification by tightening the adjusting screw.
4. Tighten the locking screw to 25 ft. lbs. (34 Nm).
5. Tighten the pivot nut to 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm).

ALTERNATOR DRIVE BELT (BOSCH TYPE)
If removal of the alternator belt is required, the A/C belt must first be removed.

1. Loosen the pivot nut, locking nut, and adjusting screw.
2. Remove the belt and install a replacement.
3. Adjust to specification by tightening the adjusting screw.
4. Tighten the locking nut to 25 ft. lbs. (34 Nm).
5. Tighten the pivot nut to 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm).

POWER STEERING BELT
If removal of the power steering belt is required, the A/C and alternator belts must first be removed.

1. Loosen the locking screw, and pivot screw.
2. Remove the belt and install a replacement.
3. Install a 1 / 2 in. breaker bar into the pump bracket slot, apply pressure with the breaker bar and adjust the belt to specification.
4. Tighten the locking screw first, then the pivot screw. Tighten to 40 ft. lbs. (55 Nm).

AIR PUMP DRIVE BELT
See Figure 17

Fig. Fig. 17: Air pump belt adjustment-2.2L engines
When servicing the air pump, use the square holes provided in the pulley to prevent camshaft rotation.

1. Remove the nuts and bolts retaining the drive pulley cover.
2. Remove the locking bolt and pivot bolt from the pump bracket, then remove the pump.
3. Remove the belt and install a replacement.
4. Position the pump, then install the locking bolt and pivot bolt finger-tight.
5. Install a 1 / 2 in. breaker bar into the bracket assembly (block the drive pulley to prevent camshaft rotation), and adjust the belt to specification.
6. Tighten locking bolt and pivot bolt to 25 ft. lbs. (35 Nm).

2.5L Engines
AIR CONDITIONING COMPRESSOR
See Figure 18

Fig. Fig. 18: Drive belt adjustment points-2.5L engines

1. Loosen the idler bracket pivot screw and the locking screws to replace, or adjust belt.
2. Remove the belt and install a replacement.
3. Adjust the belt to specification by applying torque to weld nut on the idler bracket.
4. Tighten locking screw first, followed by the pivot screw. Tighten to 40 ft. lbs. (55 Nm).

ALTERNATOR BELT
See Figure 18
If replacement of the alternator belt is required, the A/C drive belt must first be removed.

1. Loosen the pivot nut, locking nut, and adjusting screw.
2. Remove the belt and install a replacement.
3. Adjust the belt to specification by tightening the adjusting screw.
4. Tighten the locking nut to 25 ft. lbs. (35 Nm).
5. Tighten the pivot nut to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm).

POWER STEERING PUMP
See Figure 18
If replacement of the power steering belt is required, the A/C and alternator belts must first be remove.

1. Loosen the locking screw and pivot screw to replace, or adjust the belt.
2. Remove the belt and install a replacement.
3. Using a 1 / 2 in. breaker bar positioned in adjusting bracket slot, adjust the belt to specification.
4. Tighten the locking screw followed by the pivot screw. Tighten to 40 ft. lbs. (55 Nm).

2.6L Engines
ALTERNATOR/AIR CONDITIONING COMPRESSOR BELT
See Figure 19

Fig. Fig. 19: Drive belt adjustment points-2.6L engines

1. Loosen the locking screw, jam nut, and pivot nut.
2. Loosen the adjusting screw.
3. Remove the belt and install a replacement.
4. Adjust the belt to specification by tightening the adjusting screw.
5. Tighten the locking screw followed by the pivot nut. Tighten to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm).
6. Tighten the jam nut to 21 ft. lbs. (28 Nm).

POWER STEERING PUMP BELT
See Figure 19
If replacement of the power steering belt is required, the alternator and A/C belt must first be remove.

1. Loosen the pivot screw, and the locking screw.
2. Remove the timing pickup.
3. Remove the belt and install a replacement.
4. Install a 1 / 2 in. breaker bar in the adjusting bracket slot, torque to specification.
5. Tighten the locking screw, followed by the pivot screw. Tighten to 40 ft. lbs. (55 Nm).
6. Install the timing pick-up, and tighten to 160 inch lbs. (18 Nm).

Try changing fuel pressure regulator attached by 3 allen wrench screws is located next to intake manifold its attached to fuel rail on drivers side hard to take screws of might need a flexible extension with allen tip!

1998 Audi 2.8 litre V6 Thermostat is located next to the water pump, it can not be seen with all the timing covers in place. It takes about 7 hours of labor to replace, and should be done when the timing belt/ water pump is done.
Tools:
Full set of 3/8" drive sockets, 10mm, 13mm, 19mm (12pt) for sure.
Torx sockets: T45, T40, T30, possibly others, make sure to have a variety.
Allen Sockets/Wrenches: 5mm, 6mm, 8mm, 10mm
Wrenches: 10mm, 32mm (I believe or a large-1 1/4"- crescent wrench)
Pliers and Phillips and Standard screwdrivers
Straight edge, long flat bar, decent yard stick or something similar about 3 ft long.
Front Bumper Removal:
1. Lift vehicle and place on jack stands.
2. Remove plastic belly pan, there are about 8 screws holding it in.
3. Remove 4 10mm bolts from the inner fender wells, near the bottom.
4. Remove 6 10mm nuts from the fender-bumper attachment. These are a little tricky to find, I removed a headlight to get an eye on them but all you really need to do is lay under the car and look for them. There are 3 on each side and run vertically along the seam of the bumper/fender. 5. Disconnect the tube that runs to the headlight washers. To do this find the point that it connects at a white junction near the drivers fender and twist and pull them apart. Put a bucket under it to catch the fluid or plug it with a bolt and clamp it off.
6. Remove fog light grilles. Also unplug the foglights from the wiring harness and the two horns as well.
7. Remove 2 really long bumper studs. They are an allen head 6mm or 8mm.
8. Carefully pull the fender edge of the bumper away, there are plastic guides that need to pop out.
9. Detach lower fender/bumper section by pulling down and away.
10. The bumper should pull straight out now. Core Support Removal:
1. Drain the radiator by removing the coolant reservoir cap and then unscrewing the drain plug on the lower right corner of the radiator. You don't need to have it completely removed but you need to have a bucket to the right of it to catch the coolant.
2. Remove air temperature sensor from the bracket.
3. Remove the two air deflectors next to the radiator. (1 phillips screw each)
4. Remove the hood release, it pops out of its bracket then the ball is easy to get out. It needs to be taken out of the way.
5. Remove 2 bolts that hold the power steering cooler on. It is the oddly bent tube in front of the radiators. Swing the tube out of the way as far as possible.
6. Remove 4 bolts attaching the top of the AC radiator. Lift the radiator out of the lower rubber mounts. Swing the AC radiator to the passenger wheel. You will have to rotate it 180 degrees as you are bringing it around so you don't damage or kink any lines.
7. Under a black cover next to the ABS block you will find a large gathering of wires. Unplug all of them and detach the holster by pressing two clips under it and pulling it up. One of the wires needs to be taken out of this that goes to a sensor rearward.
8. Disconnect the upper and lower radiator hoses. The upper I had to remove from the radiator, which is fairly scary since the radiator sides are plastic and it is really hard to get off. There is a metal clip that you pop up with a screwdriver or pliers and then you just wiggle it off or use a screwdriver to carefully pry it off. The lower hose disconnected easily from the water inlet on the block side by taking the clamp down and wiggling it until it came off. You may need to try to get a screwdriver in there to get it to detach.
9. Disconnect the headlight wiring harnesses.
10. Remove the Torx bolts from the to of the core support (4), the sides under the headlights (2) and then the 7 larger ones that are attached with the bumper brackets. Now you can swing the core support to the right. The transmission coolant lines are still attached, and since the ****** is sealed you don't want to mess with those or kink them. If you have a 6 speed you probably can just remove the radiator core support entirely now.
11. You now have a clear view of the front of the motor.

Timing Belt/Water Pump Disassembly:
1. Here is a shot I took just after I started taking pictures. It shows the proper route for the serpentine. Trust me it will only go on one way, but if you forget how it could take a bit to figure out.

2. Remove the 3 top covers. To do this you will have to remove the coolant reservoir (3 screws) and the top of the airbox.
3. Remove the serpentine belt by using a large socket and pulling the tensioner loose then putting a pin or small screwdriver in the pin hole. You can now slide the belt off. It is very important to pin the tensioner. If you don't, you will need to buy a new one. The spring is very strong and pretty much impossible to get back together right.
4. Remove the tensioner, 2 allen bolts I believe.
5. Remove the power steering pulley, by placing an 8mm allen wrench in the center and removing the 3 6mm allen bolts.
6. Remove the clutch fan, 4 4mm allen bolts, then I used an allen wrench to keep the pulley from turning and removed the clutch with a large crescent wrench (1 1/4"). It is right hand threaded. You will need to loosen it clockwise rather than counter clockwise.
7. Now remove the Clutch fan bracket, there are 2 exposed allen bolts, and two hidden. One is below the threaded spindle of the clutch fan and is the same size as the others, and the last one is a size smaller and is removed through one of the small holes in the pulley.
8. Remove the cam gear/timing belt covers.
9. Now take your 19mm 12 pt socket and ratchet and turn the crank until the timing mark lines up with the arrow on the shield. This is very important to make sure everything lines up properly.
10. Mark the cam gears using a straight edge that reaches across the motor on the gears and a part of the housing. This is vital to the life of your motor.
11. Remove the 6 small allen bolts that hold the crank pulley/harmonic damper on. Remove the 10mm bolts that hold the lower timing belt shield and remove the shield.
12. Use an allen wrench to turn the timing belt tensioner all the way back and then put a strong piece of wire in the way to hold the pressure loaded tensioner back.
13. Remove the large bolt that holds the timing belt roller and the small bolt that holds the tensioner on.
14. Carefully remove the timing belt, it is hard to turn the gears but you may accidentally if you are not paying attention.

15. Remove the water pump; it has about 8 10mm bolts and 2 10mm nuts.
16. Use this opportunity to clean all the dirt and grime from wherever you can.

Step one: remove the screws to calibrate allens belt in the opposite direction clockwise allens wrench 5 / 16 "
Step two: remove the screws above the deck allens wrench 5 / 32 "
Step three: with a flat screwdriver to lift the lever of the Idler belt and remove the drive belt motor pulley. be careful
Step four: remove the rollers carefully.
Step five: Remove the deck
Step Six: Remove the philips screw that holds the spray nozzle
Step seven: now carefully remove the belt. to install belt now repeat these steps from back to front Once installed you must calibrate or belt slack to avoid turning the screws slide the meaning allens counterclockwise you can start with a speed 1.5Mph and increasing to 4.5Mph any questions send me an E-mail to [email protected]

REMOVAL

1. Disconnect negative battery cable.
2. Raise vehicle on hoist. Remove right front wheel.
3. Remove the right splash shield.
4. Remove accessory drive belts.
5. Remove crankshaft damper
6. Remove the lower torque strut
7. Disconnect exhaust system from manifold.
8. Disconnect A/C pressure switch at rear of compressor housing.
9. Lower vehicle and support engine with a jack.
10. Discharge A/C system and disconnect A/C lines at coupling block
11. Remove upper torque strut
12. Remove screw attaching ground strap to strut bracket.
13. Remove torque strut bracket from strut tower.
14. Remove upper radiator support crossmember
15. Remove power steering pump and bracket. Set pump aside. Do not disconnect lines from pump.</B>
16. With engine properly supported, remove right engine mount through bolt.
17. Raise engine with jack until engine support bracket bolts are accessible.
18. Remove support bracket bolts.
19. Remove support bracket.
20. Remove upper timing belt cover fasteners and remove cover.
21. Remove lower timing belt cover fasteners and remove cover
22. CAUTION: When aligning crankshaft and camshaft timing marks always rotate engine from crankshaft. Camshaft should not be rotated after timing belt is removed. Damage to valve components may occur. Always align timing marks before removing timing belt.
23. Before the removal of the timing belt, rotate crankshaft until the TDC mark on oil pump housing aligns with the TDC mark on crankshaft sprocket (trailing edge of sprocket tooth)
24. NOTE: The crankshaft sprocket TDC mark is located on the trailing edge of the sprocket tooth. Failure to align trailing edge of sprocket tooth to TDC mark on oil pump housing will cause the camshaft timing marks to be misaligned.
25. Install 6 mm Allen wrench into belt tensioner. Before rotating the tensioner, insert the long end of a 1/8” or 3 mm Allen wrench into the pin hole on the front of the tensioner .
26. While rotating the tensioner counterclockwise, push in lightly on the 1/8” or 3 mm Allen wrench, until it slides into the locking hole.
27. Remove timing belt. CAUTION: If timing belt was damaged due to incorrect tracking (alignment), the belt tensioner assembly must be replaced

INSTALLATION

1. Set crankshaft sprocket to TDC by aligning the sprocket with the arrow on the oil pump housing.
2. Set camshafts timing marks so that the exhaust camshaft sprocket is a 1/2 notch below the intake camshaft sprocket
3. CAUTION: Ensure that the arrows on both camshaft sprockets are facing up.
4. Install timing belt. Starting at the crankshaft, go around the water pump sprocket, idler pulley, camshaft sprockets and then around the tensioner
5. Move the exhaust camshaft sprocket counterclockwise to align marks and take up belt slack. NOTE: A new tensioner is held in the wound position by a pull pin.
6. Remove the pull pin or Allen wrench from the belt tensioner.
7. Once the timing belt has been installed and tensioner released, rotate the crankshaft two (2) complete revolutions. Verify that the TDC marks on crankshaft and timing marks on the camshafts are aligned as shown in .
8. Install lower timing belt cover and tighten fasteners to 9 N·m (80 in. lbs.
9. Install upper timing belt cover and tighten fasteners to 9 N·m (80 in. lbs.
10. Install right engine support bracket. Ensure the power steering pump is properly located in mounting location on bracket. Tighten mount bracket bolts to 61 N·m (45 ft. lbs.)
11. Lower engine into mounting position and install right engine mount through bolt. Tighten bolt to 118 N·m (87 ft. lbs.).
12. Install power steering pump and bracket.
13. Install upper radiator support crossmember
14. Install torque strut bracket to strut tower.
15. Connect ground strap to bracket.
16. Install upper torque strut
17. Connect A/C lines. Evacuate and recharge A/C system
18. Raise vehicle.
19. Connect exhaust system to manifold.
20. Connect A/C pressure switch connector.
21. Install crankshaft damper
22. Install accessory drive belts
23. Install lower torque strut
24. Perform torque strut adjustment procedure
25. Install right splash shield.
26. Install right front wheel.
27. Connect negative cable to battery.

To replace:

1. Remove pax wheel, splash guard, power steering pump, motor mount, crankshaft pulley, plastic covers (3).
2. Before removing, clearly mark timing belt and pulley with paint marker because overhead cams will move it engine is not at top dead center. Remove tentioner pulley and remove belt.
3. Compress piston rod with clamp and hold down with small allen wrench through pin hole.
4. Replace belt, then tensioner pulley with pin still in place.
5. Remove allen wrench and good luck. Install everything in reverse.
6. Tedious but possible for anyone with some mechanic experience.

Hi Michelle,
Typically, you'll need a 3/16" allen wrench or a similar size allen wrench, you may have been provided one with your machine.
1. unfold your unit (as applicable)
2. at the end that you just laid down, there's typically two allen screws, one on each side of the belt
3. Turn your treadmill on, 3 rpm or so.
4. Adjust the allen screws and watch the belt track one way or the other.
for instance, if you tighten the right side screw (turning it CW) this will pull the roller closer to you, tighting the belt on the right, this should make the belt move to the left - since it is NOT as tight.
5. adjust the left side the same way if you want the belt to go right
6. if you need to tighten the belt, alternate both screws CW until the belt is tight.
7. conversely, turn the screws CCW if you need to loosen the belt.

Added note: be sure to use some belt lubricant as directed by your user's manual, to prolong your treadmills life. Belts run about $100 and most people will throw their treadmill out, before spending that kind of cash on it. so,..it's worth the $10 to buy the lubricant!

Enjoy! and I hope you stick with it!

Bry

remove the 4 bolts holding motor to tub and frame remove wire harness from motor remove pump hoses turn assembly upside down 3 torx screws hold pump to motor note routing of old belt around idler pulley and pump studs reinstall in reverse