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Pennylee, Yes there is, and Fawbushra has laid it out pretty well for you. You can also just re attach one wire at a time as you remove each wire from the block making sure to keep the same order/configuration. Good luck.
General rule of thumb on dryer gord replacement. At the tip of the cord that connects to the power block, the metal connector rings have a "FLATTER" than other side if you lay it on the grond. Just be sure that the middle wire goes to the negative as it is laying flat, the other two will sit right in place.
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I work on Goodmans and I vaguely remember something like this.Be sure the neutral (white wire) and the green ground are the same potential. They both tie into the ground bus at the generator.
RED & BLACK go to L1 & L2 POWER terminals on the dryer (polarity is NOT aw factor on these 2 wires) the WHITE wire goes on the N- NEUTRAL terminal usually the center terminal between the 2 POWER terminals on the 3 terminal power block on the dryer,then the GREEN wire is the safety ground and is connected on any METALLIC spot on the dryer case,usually theres a screw somewhere just off the 3 wire terminal block mentioned above
is the white neutral wire connected to the neutral terminal on the dryers power terminal block in the back: it should be (RED to L1 then the BLACK to L2) they can be on either terminal as 2 power wires are not polarity sensitive, then as i said WHITE to the N or NEUTRAL terminal and the GREEN safety ground to any metallic point on the dryer,then check for a nominal 240 volts a.c. on the RED & BLACK terminals
Yes ... If I am going to plug in my $1500.00 laptop in to an outlet, I wait to charge or run, not cook. I don't know how you feel about that. Are you a USA resident? Are you using 110 VAC or 220 VAC? Plug your laptop in only if the power is known to you.
The best way to overcome this problem is to have an electrician update at least one outlet in each of your different homes to the standard, three prong plug, which was established in the USA more 40 years ago.
There are two problems which are common with the line cord on appliances. Don't overlook these really simple things when troubleshooting your vacuum cleaner - or fancy electronic equipment! If wiggling the cord has an effect, then the following are likely causes:
Repeated flexing results in the internal conductors breaking either at the plug or appliance end. If flexing the cord/squeezing/pulling results in the device going on and off, it is bad. If the problem is at the plug end, cut off the old plug a couple of inches beyond the problem area and replace just he plug. If the problem is at the appliance end, an entire new cordset is best though you can probably cut out the bad section and solder what remains directly to the mainboard.
In either case, observe the polarity of the cord wires - they will be marked in some way with a ridge or stripe. It is important that the new plug be of the same type (polarized usually) and that the cord is wired the same way.
The prongs do not fit snugly into older worn outlets. This can usually be remedied by using a pointed tool like an awl or utility knife to spread apart the pair of leaves often used to form each prong of the plug. If the prongs are made of solid metal, it may be possible to spread them apart - widen the space between them. Alternatively, get a 3 to 2 prong adapter just to use as an intermediate connector. Spread the leaves of its prongs. However, a new outlet is best.
Bad connections on the mainboard. As you flex the cord, it is also stressing the attachment to the mainboard and affecting some marginal solder joints.
It is important to deal with these symptoms as soon as possible as erratic power cycling can lead to much more serious and expensive problems down the road. Good luck...
'L' is for line, or the 'hot', 'N' is for neutral. If the old cord had a polarized plug (one wide blade, one smaller), then yes it matters. The wide blade is neutral, the smaller one hot. If they are both the same, and the wires just connected directly to the primary side of the power transformer, then it does not matter.
Hello markdraghi,
I assume ( but don't know) that you are replacing an existing dryer... That said, then you need to match the cord ( 3 prong or 4 prong) with what you currently have for a receptacle. A 3 prong uses two hot feeds ( red and black) and a Neutral ( white). A 4 prong uses the same as the 3 prong but also includes a Green wire for Ground. Get back to me if you need wiring details or if I have NOT answered your question. Hpe this helps.
Regards,
Rick
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