Question about Mitsubishi WD-52525 52" Rear Projection HDTV

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Blue flickering light, no audio

I've removed the back panel on the TV in order to access the power supply and check the capacitors. How do I remove the power supply? Is it all one unit? Does the entire bottom left section come out together? I'd appreciate any help. After reading where others had the same problem, I'd like to check the capacitors and see if that's a problem before taking to a technician.

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I have a rca d52w19 had no sound or picture.green light on power button would flash 3 times then stop i just replaced the 2200f 16v green cap on power board (if the top has popped up its bad)now i get picture and sound.but i have the Blue flickering light.let me know if you find out what is causing this.

Posted on Mar 23, 2008

  • bubba Apr 15, 2008

    ? would putting capacitor in backwards cause the light to blink?

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You will need the service manual in order to get that chassis out. once out it is an easy repair to replace the capacitors yourself. I just did one the other day. You will need the service manual for sure it will save you alot of money on repairs. heres a link where you can get the factory service manual.
http://servicemanuals.vstore.ca/

Posted on Mar 19, 2008

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1 Answer

Power on red light and green light fickering but tv doesnt start


Good day!!!


That problem is usually cause of faulty capacitors on the power supply board..

Just follow this instruction to fix your TV..

1. Open the back cover of your TV.
2. Look at the power supply board..Its normally connected to the power cord..
3. After that,,try to look at the actual image of capacitors if it is bulged on the top so that you can easily determine the bad capacitors..
4. After that,,try to replaced the bad capacitors using soldering iron and soldering lead..replaced the capacitors only with the same type ratings and value..
5. Some of the capacitors not bulged so its better if have a capacitance meter

Jun 25, 2012 | Projection Televisions

1 Answer

Where are tha capacitors fo misubishi wd62725 located


1. If you haven't done so already... Unlplug the TV!
2. Remove the rear lower outside panel using a phillips screw driver. Set the panel aside somewhere where it won't get tripped over and broken.
3. Remove the screws from the lower metal panel that hides the electronics and connections. When removing this panel from the back of the TV, there will be an exhaust fan attached. You will need to disconnect the fan's connector in order to set it aside to get it out of the way. Take note that all the connectors inside the TV except for one on mine had the ends labeled with a code so that they could be matched up when it comes time to plug things back in. Just make sure that when you're disconnecting the connectors that you number them or code them if they aren't already marked as there are probably 10+ connectors that will need to be undone in order to get the electrical chassis out.
4. Remove the big metal plate on the left side of the electronics chassis. This will help you get the electronics chassis out of the TV.
5. Slide the TVs power cable up and out of the slot that holds it in place. This will also give you slack to move the electronics chassis out of the TV so you can work on it.
6. Unplug the USB and Firewire connectors from the top of the electronics chassis.
7. Carefully slide the electronics chassis away from the TV. Take note that you will have to start to disconnecting connections now in order to get the chassis out of the TV, I didn't fully remove mine from the TV. There were just too many connections that needed to be undone. So what I did was undo enough of them so that I could set it on a chair, but still connected to the TV.
8. Now the electronics chassis is out so we can work on it. Remove the protective metal housing from the electronics chassis and expose the circuit boards.
9. Now you should be able to see your circuit boards. There are typically two boards that have bad capacitors on them. One is called the DM board and the other the Power board. The DM is the hard one to get to as its the middle board of three. When accessing this board, be extremely careful of the ribbon cables at the bottom and sides of the boards. They can easily be broken, torn, etc... Again, take note of the connections you have to remove and make sure they're labeled. Take a picture of things if you need too.
10. Now that you can see the capacitors on the DM Board, look for a grouping of capacitors:
11. Now look at the Power board. Its the board on the back of the electronics chassis. There are two capacitors to look for here: Photo of Power Board Capacitors Are these bulging or leaking? If so, they'll need to be replaced. Look for others while you're here. I ordered mine from mouser using this part#: Mouser Power Board Capacitors Link
12. Once you have the capacitors replaced. Button everything back up and hope for the best.

Nov 29, 2011 | Projection Televisions

1 Answer

BLUE LIGHT BLINK 5TIME TV WILL NOT COME ON MAKE NOSIE FROM BACK OF TV


Hello,
Hi A common problem for these is bad capacitors in the power supply, Remove the back from your Tv and look at the power supply on the left hand side.
You will see roughly around 9 x capacitors that are bulged / domed shaped on top usually these are valued at 3300uf 10V any that have bulged or leaked a brown like substance should be changed. This will cure the problem as they overheat being sat next to a heatsink that gets very hot! Try and change them for the same 3300uf but a higher voltage. Hope this helps

Aug 08, 2011 | RCA Projection Televisions

1 Answer

Problem concerns Samsung HL-S5087W. All of a sudden, TV goes through 3 startup cycles and shuts down resulting in 3 blinking lights on front panel. What I've done: Completely cleaned inside of...


Hi,

3 blinking led light at the front panel is an error code for lamp malfunction. If you've already replaced the bulb and yet the symptoms remain the same, then high chance that the fault came from the ballast board because the supply voltage is present.

Confirm if the bulb will lit upon powering on the unit. Open the lamp cover, bypass the lamp cover switch by putting tape to make it in closed position (making it still the lamp cover is attached to the housing) and then power on the unit. Check if the bulb will ignite or will light up, if not, you have to replaced the ballast board.

Hope I helped you.
Have a nice day!
Thanks for using Fixya.

Jul 14, 2011 | Samsung HL-R5087W 50" HDTV-Ready...

1 Answer

Tv screen shuts off, light blue comes on and horizontal bars cross the screen. the sides have orange and blue vertical lines and middle shinks in. If i turn off the main power, wait a few minutes...


I agree that it is the power supply board. I had a problem with my Phillips 42 in. HDTV. It would not turn on at all.

I opened it up and found several bad capacitors. I removed the bad ones and replaced them with good ones and its up and running.

My suggestion is to inspect the capacitors on the Power Supply Board. Look for bulged leaking or misshaped capacitors. If you find any replace them or have them replaced. They are very inexpensive.
Or just replace the whole board

Hope that helps

Dec 09, 2010 | Pioneer PRO-510HD 53" Rear Projection...

3 Answers

No display or audio


I had the same problem after replacing several things and still having same problem, it ended up being a capacitor.

Jul 03, 2010 | Toshiba TP55H60 55" Rear Projection...

3 Answers

Toshiba 57H81 Flashing Red Power Light, Blown Fused F850+F852


Solved by resoldering some solder joints!!!!!!!
********
Toshiba Model 57H81 Rear Projection TV - Purchased 11-09-2001

Problem: Toshiba 57H81 Flashing Red Power Light, No Picture/Sound, Blown Fuses F850 + F852

Symptoms January, 2009:

  • Upon turning on set I got flashing red power light and nothing else.
  • Removing plug for one minute and plugging in results in:
    • Audible click, steady red power light for 2 seconds then slow flashing red light
    • Pushing power button results in steady red for about 2 seconds then slow flashing red light, no other set activity
  • Removing power cord for several hours and plugging back in made no change
    • Audible click, steady red for about 2 seconds then slow flashing red light
  • Possible related note: Over past several months occasionally the entire screen would flicker momentarily and at other times be problem free for weeks.
  • Fuses F850 and F852 found blown

Repairs Made:
  • PD0074 DEF/CON Power Board
    • There are two main power supply capacitors in this set. They are C-809 and C-810. One their negative lead on the printed circuit board re-soldered leads and nearby contacts. I’m told that because the factory left out a printed circuit board eyelet, the connection will come loose over time. When I called Toshiba customer service they said there was a known solder joint problem causing blinking red light.
    • Replaced blown fuses F850 and F852.
      • I actually installed a fuse panel on the inside of the cabinet and routed the fuse connections here instead of ordering the special fuses and replacing them on the circuit board.
      • Had to use a 5 Amp SLO-BLOW for F850. Fast blow does not survive power up. Get the red blinking light.
      • Used a fast blow 2 Amp for F852.
  • PD0073 SIGNAL Board
    • Re-soldered Q751 + Q752 STK392-110 Convergence Amps
    • Re-soldered adjacent pads that looks suspicious

Total Cost to Repair about $10
  • Twelve hours of my time over three days to research issue, disassemble set, make repairs, add fuse panel.
  • Already owned Service Manual and Circuit diagrams from a different 2004 repair.
  • Less than ten dollars at Radio Shack for fuses and fuse panel. Already had wires, etc.
  • Some solder. Already owned de-soldering tools, etc.
  • Visited both local authorized Toshiba factory service repair facilities. One said repair would have to include replacing Q751 + Q752 STK392-110 Convergence Amps with ST392-180, and realigning set for a total of $500+ and it would be more if they had to order a power board. NO THANK YOU! Other shop said $65 for site visit and $30 to make an estimate that could be applied to repair.

Jan 04, 2009 | Toshiba 57H81 57" Rear Projection...

2 Answers

Bad Mits capacitors


You can get the full service manual at the following link that will show you how the chassis is removed and then its just reverse the proceedure. Heres the link.
http://servicemanuals.vstore.ca/

Jun 11, 2008 | Mitsubishi WD-52525 52" Rear Projection...

5 Answers

WD-52525 flickering blue screen


it sounds like the light engine has failed..since it is expensive it would be a good idea to have a factory trained tech take a look

Nov 25, 2007 | Mitsubishi WD-52525 52" Rear Projection...

11 Answers

Flickering blue picture


I finally got around to dismantling the TV. This is no mean task. The chassis is tethered to the rest of the set my over a dozen wiring harnesses and a few of these cannot be disconnected near the chassis but instead require removing the “right support” near the air duct and taking the shield off the lamp ballast. Once the chassis assembly is out, it is a further significant task to disassemble it to get at the various PWBs (POWER, FMT and DM) having the suspect caps. I’m sure reassembling everything will be a fun job!

I have not yet had a chance to fix and reassemble but I wanted to post this no as I’m not sure when I will get around to it.

I did find six of the fourteen known-problem caps to be visibly bulging -- both 3300s and two of the four 1000s on the PWR PWB plus two of the four 1000s on the FMT PWB (see photos below). Ironically of the four 1000s on the DM PWB, which I have heard are the most common to go bad, were bulging and I considered skipping these as the DM it is the toughest board to extricate from the chassis, however I figured I had come this far and I would just as soon replace all twelve 1000 uFs as the parts cost $0.23 and I really never want to have to do this again.

If I had to bet, the two 10V 3300uF caps on POWER board, which were actually leaking black goo, are the actual culprits, but with four of the 1000 uFs also bulging it is probable only a matter of time until they failed as well.

Here is the POWER PWB with the known-problem caps (C9A37, C9A38, C9A51, C9A52, C9A61 and C9A62) highlighted:
a99678f.jpg
here's the FMT PWB with the known-problem caps (C8F19, C8F21, C8F22 and C8F27) highlighted:
7826ab5.jpg

and the DM PWB with the known-problem caps (C81A2, C81A3, C81B3 and C81B4) highlighted:
a158dce.jpg
Here are close-ups of the bulging caps (C9A37, C9A38, C9A52 and C9A62) on the POWER PWB:
bb3e69c.jpg
76dcd23.jpg
9e2c246.jpg
And here are close-ups of the bulging caps (C8F19 and C8F27) on the FMT PWB:
55cd11f.jpg
1a03490.jpg

Jun 19, 2007 | Mitsubishi WD-52525 52" Rear Projection...

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