Question about Samsung HLN617W 61" Rear Projection HDTV

2 Answers

Fan locations I am installing a new color wheel. I removed the screws holding one the fans in place. The cables are still connected. Now I can not find the screw wholes to refasten the fan. It is not the one attached to the base at an angle, or the one apparently directly cooling the bulb. Can you give me a clue. Obviously the location has to be within reach of the still connected cables. I really feel like an extremely frustrated idiot. I tried Samsung directly and they were so cooperative I have probably bought my last Samsung product. Thanks for your attention and any help you cam give Harvey Goldblatt

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  • toopigheaded Mar 17, 2008

    The information provided did not help. I already had these instructions. Thanks to a friend I found out where the fan went and completed the installation. The problem is I now have a dark translucent diagonal shadow across approximately half the screen. It almost looks like something is either obstructing part of the lens or light source. Do you have any suggestions?

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Check this link for a detail info on how to install that color wheel.

Posted on Mar 16, 2008

  • Jaime Hernandez Mar 17, 2008

    I would suggest to go back and check the light and or the color wheel for any contamination such as finger prints or dust. Be very gentle when you clean them.

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That's not unusual...those might clip in..

Posted on Mar 16, 2008

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How to change the cooling fan in a toshiba laptop model p200d-139



Instructions

Shut down your Toshiba laptop, and then disconnect all cables. Close the LCD lid, and then place the laptop face down on a flat surface. Position the laptop with front edge facing you.

Locate the battery pack near the top section of the laptop's bottom casing. Press on the battery release button. Remove the battery from the laptop.

Locate the cooling fan compartment cover. Its location varies from laptop to laptop, but it will be the only hardware cover with a vent in it. Remove the Phillips-head screws securing the fan's cover in place. Remove the cover from the laptop.

Disconnect the fan's cable from its connector on the motherboard. Remove the Phillips-head screws securing the fan in place. Lift the old fan out of the fan compartment and set it aside. Removing the old fan will reveal the processor chip. Apply a thin coat of thermal grease to the processor's surface using a clean paper towel. This will prevent your new processor from frying once you power on your laptop.

Place the new cooling fan assembly inside the fan compartment. Align the screw holes on the new fan with the screw holes inside the compartment. Replace the four retaining Phillips-head screws, and then reconnect the fan's power cable to the motherboard. Replace the fan compartment's plastic cover, and its retaining Phillips-head screws.

Replace the battery pack and reconnect all power cables and external devices. Turn on your laptop to test the new cooling fan

Jul 28, 2012 | Toshiba Computers & Internet

Tip

How to repair Computer Fan


<p>1. Remove the mini-tower computer cord and unplug the power. Disconnect the cable from the back of the computer for a note in which they were set to be fast to restore.<br /> <p><br /> <p>2. Unplug the connector on the back of the computer. Tighten the screws on the back of the computer, back up the side with a screwdriver. Slide the computer case and put it out of your way.<br /> <p><br /> <p>3. Locate the fan in the box near the back and then connect the power cord where it is on the motherboard. Unplug the fan motherboard manual. Remove the four screws holding the fan on the bottom of the box with a screwdriver to secure.<br /> <p><br /> <p>4. Remove the PC case fan and set aside. Turn the fan of the new mini-tower in the back of the cabinet with screws and plugs wire connector on the motherboard.<br /> <p><br /> <p>5. Place the rear plate side of the computer and secure it with screws. Connect the power cord to power on the back of the case and connect the cable to the computer case.<br /> <p><br /> <p>6. Connect the power cable from the mini-tower outlet and turn on the computer.<br />

on Jun 21, 2011 | Computers & Internet

Tip

Samsung Color Wheel replacement!


This varies a little depending on model number of the set.

Usually a bad color wheel will produce a high pitched sound or even a grinding noise; some sets may actually shut down if the wheel is bad or shattered.

To determine if you have a bad color wheel:
  1. Turn set off and wait for main fan to shut off.
  2. Unplug the set.
  3. Remove the lamp door and then remove the lamp.
  4. In the direction the lamp faces you will see a round opening; the color wheel is facing this opening. It is a round plastic wheel with colored segments—we want to look to see if any of the segments are missing; a shattered wheel should be clear to see.
  5. If the wheel is shattered or makes the high pitched fan like sound you can with the model number go online to someplace like Ebay with the model number of your set and find a part number and replacement wheel for your set---most of these are 70 to 90 plus shipping—make sure you get the right part.
  6. The wheel turns at about 14,000 rpm and eventually the motor seizes up causing this problem.
  7. Depending on model number there are some variations on how to replace it; but for the most part it requires the following.
  8. With the set unplugged remove the entire back cover.
  9. Locate the optical light engine dead center in the middle of the set. Some models have a large square box in front of it that you have to unbolt and remove plugs from one side—mark the plugs so when you remove them you can put them back in the exact same place.
  10. The Light engine has to be pulled out of the set to replace the color wheel; this kind of repair usually takes less than an hour from start to finish.
  11. Once you get the engine out you will find a somewhat square black plastic shroud on the right side of it----3 philips screws secure it to the frame of the engine.
  12. Remove the screws and you should be able to pull the shroud up and away.
  13. The Color wheel has two cables coming out of it; one is a 3 or 4 wire small square plug and the other is a flat ribbon cable2_bing.gif. Be very careful when you remove the plug with wires—some people break the wires and then have to get the plug out of the socket with care. Both plugs connect the color wheel to the optical engine. The flat orange ribbon cable only has contacts on one side-WHEN YOU REMOVE IT NOTE WHICH DIRECTION THE CONTACTS ARE ON---if you put it in backwards(it can be done) the lamp will not turn on.
  14. You need to be careful when you replace the shroud over the color wheel so that the two cables(the ribbon cable and the other one) do not get pinched by it.
  15. With the wheel replaced; install the light engine back in place.
  16. All these sets have a safety switch on the back edge of the frame---it is a lever that will not allow the set to be turned on with the back removed. After you have installed the light engine back if you want to see if it worked; tape or hold the lever(usually blue and on the right side as you look from the back).
  17. If the set comes on and the lamp comes on do not look directly at the lamp---Once you see you have a working set turn it off and wait for the lamp fan to shut off in back—usually a few minutes.
  18. Bolt everything back and replace the back cover also---this should complete the repair.
  19. Some of these sets after you do this will work but the color will look off--flesh tones will be off--if this happens there is a small jumper on the metal box on the light engine that needs to be located and pulled out--places that sell the color wheel do not tell people about this. SD TECH
386fb1b.jpg


on Dec 08, 2009 | Televison & Video

1 Answer

I have an rca hdlp6iw51 and i found a color wheel on ebay but i dont know how to change it does anyone have any advice


Follow this steps:
1. Take the back panel off of your set, using your Phillips head screwdriver, to remove any screws. 2. Remove the projector lamp. You can reach the color wheel without doing it, but you are less likely to damage the projector lamp if you take it out. Loosen the screws at the base: depending on your DLP's brand, the screws may come out, or may just loosen. If they come out, set them in a safe place before removing the lamp. If not, just pull the entire lamp out, once the screws will not loosen further. 3. Take out the panel that is connected to the cable outlets, using the screwdriver to take out any screws. Pull the panel until the cables, attached from the inside, run out of slack.
4. Remove the screws at the bottom of the panel, in the center, and any screws connecting this panel to the outer case of your DLP. The number and location of these screws will vary depending on your DLP's brand.



  • 3 Remove the projector lamp. You can reach the color wheel without doing it, but you are less likely to damage the projector lamp if you take it out. Loosen the screws at the base: depending on your DLP's brand, the screws may come out, or may just loosen. If they come out, set them in a safe place before removing the lamp. If not, just pull the entire lamp out, once the screws will not loosen further.
  • 4 Take out the panel that is connected to the cable outlets, using the screwdriver to take out any screws. Pull the panel until the cables, attached from the inside, run out of slack.
  • 5 Remove the screws at the bottom of the panel, in the center, and any screws connecting this panel to the outer case of your DLP. The number and location of these screws will vary depending on your DLP's brand.
  • 6 Pull out the entire center unit, pulling gradually. Then, unplug the power cable from the main set (this is generally blue and brown). Remove the sensor switch and any cables joining the center unit to either side of the set.
  • 7 Take out the plug from the cover of the color wheel. In most brands, it will have a black and blue wire connected to a green circuit board. Then, remove any cables coming out of the wheel. Depending on the brand, the screws may be small enough to require the jeweler's screwdriver.
  • 8 Remove the screws holding the color wheel cover in place. Remove the cover, then take out the screws holding the wheel in place. If tape is holding the wheel, just pull on the wheel until it comes free.
  • 9 Put the new wheel into the slot. You do not want to touch the wheel, or you will blemish it and leave impressions that will be visible when the light shines through it. Re-insert the screws. Then, replace the cover, making sure that the wire jacks are in the same places.
  • 10 Reassemble the DLP television, then plug the set into the wall, and turn on the power.

  • Read more: How to Change a DLP Color Wheel ' eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_7697815_change-dlp-color-wheel.html#ixzz1VdDl2OQb


  • 3 Remove the projector lamp. You can reach the color wheel without doing it, but you are less likely to damage the projector lamp if you take it out. Loosen the screws at the base: depending on your DLP's brand, the screws may come out, or may just loosen. If they come out, set them in a safe place before removing the lamp. If not, just pull the entire lamp out, once the screws will not loosen further.
  • 4 Take out the panel that is connected to the cable outlets, using the screwdriver to take out any screws. Pull the panel until the cables, attached from the inside, run out of slack.
  • 5 Remove the screws at the bottom of the panel, in the center, and any screws connecting this panel to the outer case of your DLP. The number and location of these screws will vary depending on your DLP's brand.
  • 6 Pull out the entire center unit, pulling gradually. Then, unplug the power cable from the main set (this is generally blue and brown). Remove the sensor switch and any cables joining the center unit to either side of the set.
  • 7 Take out the plug from the cover of the color wheel. In most brands, it will have a black and blue wire connected to a green circuit board. Then, remove any cables coming out of the wheel. Depending on the brand, the screws may be small enough to require the jeweler's screwdriver.
  • 8 Remove the screws holding the color wheel cover in place. Remove the cover, then take out the screws holding the wheel in place. If tape is holding the wheel, just pull on the wheel until it comes free.
  • 9 Put the new wheel into the slot. You do not want to touch the wheel, or you will blemish it and leave impressions that will be visible when the light shines through it. Re-insert the screws. Then, replace the cover, making sure that the wire jacks are in the same places.
  • 10 Reassemble the DLP television, then plug the set into the wall, and turn on the power.

  • Read more: How to Change a DLP Color Wheel ' eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_7697815_change-dlp-color-wheel.html#ixzz1VdDl2OQb

    Aug 21, 2011 | RCA HD61LPW42 61" Rear Projection HDTV

    Tip

    Do it yourself Samsung Color wheel replacement


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    This varies a little depending on model number of the set.

    Usually a bad color wheel will produce a high pitched sound or even a grinding noise; some sets may actually shut down if the wheel is bad or shattered.

    To determine if you have a bad color wheel:
    1. Turn set off and wait for main fan to shut off.
    2. Unplug the set.
    3. Remove the lamp door and then remove the lamp.
    4. In the direction the lamp faces you will see a round opening; the color wheel is facing this opening. It is a round plastic wheel with colored segments—we want to look to see if any of the segments are missing; a shattered wheel should be clear to see.
    5. If the wheel is shattered or makes the high pitched fan like sound you can with the model number go online to someplace like Ebay with the model number of your set and find a part number and replacement wheel for your set---most of these are 70 to 90 plus shipping—make sure you get the right part.
    6. The wheel turns at about 14,000 rpm and eventually the motor seizes up causing this problem.
    7. Depending on model number there are some variations on how to replace it; but for the most part it requires the following.
    8. With the set unplugged remove the entire back cover.
    9. Locate the optical light engine dead center in the middle of the set. Some models have a large square box in front of it that you have to unbolt and remove plugs from one side—mark the plugs so when you remove them you can put them back in the exact same place.
    10. The Light engine has to be pulled out of the set to replace the color wheel; this kind of repair usually takes less than an hour from start to finish.
    11. Once you get the engine out you will find a somewhat square black plastic shroud on the right side of it----3 philips screws secure it to the frame of the engine.
    12. Remove the screws and you should be able to pull the shroud up and away.
    13. The Color wheel has two cables coming out of it; one is a 3 or 4 wire small square plug and the other is a flat ribbon cable. Be very careful when you remove the plug with wires—some people break the wires and then have to get the plug out of the socket with care. Both plugs connect the color wheel to the optical engine. The flat orange ribbon cable only has contacts on one side-WHEN YOU REMOVE IT NOTE WHICH DIRECTION THE CONTACTS ARE ON---if you put it in backwards(it can be done) the lamp will not turn on.
    14. You need to be careful when you replace the shroud over the color wheel so that the two cables(the ribbon cable and the other one) do not get pinched by it.
    15. With the wheel replaced; install the light engine back in place.
    16. All these sets have a safety switch on the back edge of the frame---it is a lever that will not allow the set to be turned on with the back removed. After you have installed the light engine back if you want to see if it worked; tape or hold the lever(usually blue and on the right side as you look from the back).
    17. If the set comes on and the lamp comes on do not look directly at the lamp---Once you see you have a working set turn it off and wait for the lamp fan to shut off in back—usually a few minutes.
    18. Bolt everything back and replace the back cover also---this should complete the repair.
    19. Some of these sets after you do this will work but the color will look off--flesh tones will be off--if this happens there is a small jumper on the metal box on the light engine that needs to be located and pulled out--places that sell the color wheel do not tell people about this. SD TECH

    on Dec 08, 2009 | Televison & Video

    Tip

    Repair job continued


    7. Locate the color wheel cover. It’s got a small green circuit board on top of it with a black/blue wires connected to it. Remove that plug. Also, and this is the trickiest part, remove the two cables coming from the color wheel. One is a copper-colored ribbon cable. That will just slide out easily. The other is a cable with two white and one blue wire. This one is tricky to remove, so you’ll need to ease it out. I pried it out with a jeweler’s screwdriver. DO NOT just pull on the wires.
    Note: A reader made the following excellent suggestion to avoid breaking the white connector on the end of the blue/white/white wire:
    Having replaced quite a few of these colorwheels as a Samsung service tech, I have found that you do not have to remove the blue/white wire from the DMD board (avoiding the risk of damage to the optical engine) There is enough slack in the wire to route it around the cover when removing it. You can then unplug the wire from the old colorwheel and plug it in the new one (the plastic tab will break off the old connector when you go to remove it,but it will still fit snugly on the new colorwheel) Using this method I have had no problems reusing the old connecting cable
    color-wheel-cover.jpg
    Color wheel cover view from top-down. This part has three screws and slides straight up.
    color-wheel-wires.jpg 8. Unscrew the color wheel cover. There are three screws holding it in place. One to the rear of the set, and two in front. The one to the rear is tucked way in, so I just unscrewed them and carefully left them in place and pulled them out with the cover. Slide the cover straight up, exposing the color wheel. As you do, note where the color wheel wires go — out the gap in the front.
    cover-removal.jpg 9. Remove the bad color wheel. The color wheel is held in place with three screws. Remove the screws and the color wheel. The color wheel may be stuck in place with the foam tape, but that’ll give with a small tug. To remove the wheel cleanly, I lifted the front edge and slid it toward the front.
    color-wheel.jpg 10. Insert the new colorwheel. It can be tricky to do this without touching the wheel, or bumping the wheel into the case. (This is where you need the nerves of steel). Once you get the proper angle, it will slide into place. Don’t force it — remember, this thing needs to spin at 9000 RPM, it’s probably pretty sensitive. At first, I tried to put it in place with the screws already in the holes. This didn’t allow me to slide it in properly. Lesson learned: put it in without the screws and then hold the screws in place with tweezers, if necessary.
    11. Put the color wheel cover back on with the wires out the space facing the front of the case. Make sure the wires reach their destinations, and screw in the cover. Three screws. Attach the three connectors. The metal contacts on the ribbon cable face the rear.
    12. Put all the guts back in place. Slide the center unit back in. Without touching the projector lens, open up the slice in the foam so it wraps around the projector lens, and slide it in the rest of the way. The center unit can only go in on it’s track, so again, don’t force anything. Connect the two wires you removed on the left side. They should only go in one way. Did I mention don’t force anything? Screw the sensor switch onto the bracket on the right.
    13. Put the power cable in it’s slot. Just the way you noted on the way out.
    14. Slide the left PC board and panel back in place. There are two screws that hold it in place that you screw in now, the rest hold on the access panel.
    15. Put the projector lamp back in place and screw it into place. I forgot to do this both times.
    16. Put the access panel back on and screw it in (14 screws)
    17. Plug in the television, say a prayer, and turn it on.

    on Mar 30, 2008 | Samsung DLP HL-P5663W 56" TV

    3 Answers

    After 10 sec. after start up the tv starts to make a large growling sound for about 5 secs. then repeats every 15 sec. sounds like if might be a fan. How many fans in this t.v. . Took the back cover off...


    That growling sound is most likely a your color wheel. Often, a color segment breaks free and causes the wheel to become unbalanced. I would suggest searching for a tutorial or "How-To" on replacing it. Basically, you need to disconnect (about 4 connections) and remove the Light Engine (2 screws). Then pull the cover off the color wheel housing (to the left of the lamp, 2 screws). Disconnect and remove the color wheel (2 screws and 2 connectors). You will need to use a vac the glass out from the lost color segment(s). Here's a tip for reassembly: color wheel 4-wire ribbon.. copper on the connector should face you. Also, the lamp door switch must be tripped or the TV will not fire up. I hope this was helpful.

    Mar 28, 2010 | Samsung HLR5067WX 50" Rear Projection HDTV

    1 Answer

    Sounded like the fan was going, kind of like a quite baseball card in a bike spoke as it turns, then tv would shut off.


    Usually a bad color wheel will produce a high pitched sound or even a grinding noise; some sets may actually shut down if the wheel is bad or shattered.

    To determine if you have a bad color wheel:
    1. Turn set off and wait for main fan to shut off.
    2. Unplug the set.
    3. Remove the lamp door and then remove the lamp.
    4. In the direction the lamp faces you will see a round opening; the color wheel is facing this opening. It is a round plastic wheel with colored segments—we want to look to see if any of the segments are missing; a shattered wheel should be clear to see.
    5. If the wheel is shattered or makes the high pitched fan like sound you can with the model number go online to someplace like Ebay with the model number of your set and find a part number and replacement wheel for your set---most of these are 70 to 90 plus shipping—make sure you get the right part.
    6. The wheel turns at about 14,000 rpm and eventually the motor seizes up causing this problem.
    7. Depending on model number there are some variations on how to replace it; but for the most part it requires the following.
    8. With the set unplugged remove the entire back cover.
    9. Locate the optical light engine dead center in the middle of the set. Some models have a large square box in front of it that you have to unbolt and remove plugs from one side—mark the plugs so when you remove them you can put them back in the exact same place.
    10. The Light engine has to be pulled out of the set to replace the color wheel; this kind of repair usually takes less than an hour from start to finish.
    11. Once you get the engine out you will find a somewhat square black plastic shroud on the right side of it----3 philips screws secure it to the frame of the engine.
    12. Remove the screws and you should be able to pull the shroud up and away.
    13. The Color wheel has two cables coming out of it; one is a 3 or 4 wire small square plug and the other is a flat ribbon cable2_bing.gif. Be very careful when you remove the plug with wires—some people break the wires and then have to get the plug out of the socket with care. Both plugs connect the color wheel to the optical engine. The flat orange ribbon cable only has contacts on one side-WHEN YOU REMOVE IT NOTE WHICH DIRECTION THE CONTACTS ARE ON---if you put it in backwards(it can be done) the lamp will not turn on.
    14. You need to be careful when you replace the shroud over the color wheel so that the two cables(the ribbon cable and the other one) do not get pinched by it.
    15. With the wheel replaced; install the light engine back in place.
    16. All these sets have a safety switch on the back edge of the frame---it is a lever that will not allow the set to be turned on with the back removed. After you have installed the light engine back if you want to see if it worked; tape or hold the lever(usually blue and on the right side as you look from the back).
    17. If the set comes on and the lamp comes on do not look directly at the lamp---Once you see you have a working set turn it off and wait for the lamp fan to shut off in back—usually a few minutes.
    18. Bolt everything back and replace the back cover also---this should complete the repair.
    19. Some of these sets after you do this will work but the color will look off--flesh tones will be off--if this happens there is a small jumper on the metal box on the light engine that needs to be located and pulled out--places that sell the color wheel do not tell people about this. SD TECH
    386fb1b.jpg

    Dec 12, 2009 | Samsung HL-R4667W Rear Projection...

    1 Answer

    How do I replace the "color wheel" in this T.V.? (I have new one)


    First you have to remove the Optics Engine itself, Locate the lamp housing and remove the lamp, the color wheel is attached to a large grey or black heat sink looking device, with two screws holding it in place. Look for a copper colored flex cable, and a small three wire plug connection to a Aluminum container. Trace these wires form the container which is by the way called the DMD Module. Tracing the wires will lead you directly to the color wheel assembly. Remove tthe two screws holding the color wheel in place and lift up gently, their is also a rubber seal around the color whee housing that needs to be replaced also but should come with the new wheel.

    Mar 14, 2009 | Samsung HLN507 50" Rear Projection...

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