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The "CUR" display means that the amp is drawing excessive current and the protection circuit is activating. Too low impedance or shorted speakers will cause the amp to draw excessive current.
The Alpine V12 is a Class D mono amp with only one set of speaker outputs. All versions, M301, M501, and M1001 are only stable to 2ohms. Assuming that all 6 of your connected subwoofers and speakers are 4ohm and they're all connected in parallel, the amp sees a .67 ohm load, far below it's rated impedance.
When brand new, the amp could probably operate at low to moderate volume levels without drawing excessive current. But as electronic components age, their tolerances change and they become less able to withstand excessive current or mismatched impedances.
I'd get a 4-channel amp and drive the 4" speakers off the front channels and the 6X9's off the rear channels. And just power the subs off the V12 making sure that they are connected to show a minimum load of 2ohms.
Your question appears under the product listing for the Dual XPA4100 but the in the text you say the amp is actually a Jensen, so it's not possible to provide specific connection information.
But most bridgeable amps can be connected to a single subwoofer and the other two channels used to drive a set of regular speakers. I'd connect the front speakers to channels 1 and 2 and wire the subwoofer to the bridge connections of channels 3 and 4. On the XPA4100, the bridge terminals are the first (negative) terminal on channel 4 and the last (positive) terminal on channel 3.
the amp is going into protect mode due to something wrong in the amp or some thing in the wiring to it ooh yea if you are getting 18v power to the amp that is way to high it should not be higher then 15v if the amp is in protect mode it will not play at all.
sounds like you need another amp, if the amp has a speaker already connected to each channel, you have no open channel to connect a sub-woofer.
Some years ago I seen an amplifier that was designed to use 3 speakers on 2 channels. what they did was had a speaker on each channel and then they bridged the 3rd speaker across it. That amplifier was designed for this configuration, unless you have an amplifier like that you should not try it. It may result in smoke from the amp.
If you have a 4 channel amp and 4 speakers and each speaker is connected to each of the 4 channels you are just fine. A stereo amplifier has 2 channels, typically labeled left and right and each channel has an amplifier. A 4 channel amplifier has 4 amplifiers. With one speaker on each channel, there is one speaker on each amplifier. Audio amps are referred to as amps or amplifiers, although if they have more than one channel it would be more correct to call them something like 'multi-channel amplifier' or 'multi amplifier speaker driver'. Semantics.
I recommend you swap your left and right input cables to make sure it's not a source issue.
So from your headunit, plug the left channel output into your amps right input and your right channel output into your amps left input.
If the same side is still not working then disconnect both (or single speaker if it bridged) the speakers from the not working side at the amp. Connect the front and then the rear speakers individually and retest to see if one of them works.
If one does work then check the cabling and speaker connections on the one that doesn't. If it's shorting out anywhere it will stop your amp from powering that channel.
Failing that, it could just be that your amp has partly failed.
I'd be inclined to check to make sure there isn't a short circuit somewhere in the output lines. Maybe a wire is crushed against the car's body or bare wires touching or badly fitted RCA plugs. All of these things could activate the protection circuit. If you have a multimeter it would make life easier but don't forget your speakers will show up as 4 ohms so that's not a short.