Question about Kenmore 50522 / 50524 Side by Side Refrigerator

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Bad start capacitor?

Is there an easy way to check the start capacitor? I smacked the compressor with 2x4 and a hammer a few times and nothing changed. I really appreciate the help.

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Hello !
You can look at the start capacitor for signs of leakage. Also check to see if it is getting hot.
If you can get a replacement that's the best way to confirm it being bad unless you have a capacitor tester.
I think you said the compressor was getting hot. If it is something is stopping it from starting. There is an overload device which is about 3/4 " thick and 1" in diameter which goes bad but if it is bad usually the compressor is dead - - - won't even try to run. The overload is located near the start capacitor.
If the condenser coils are clogged with lint- etc. the compressor will also get hot due to not enough air flowing over the coils. This also will cause you refrigerator to not get cold enough.
I really think you have a stuck compressor. I have been wrong before so it is best to check the cheapest things first. I hope this helps you !
Stargazer

Posted on Mar 19, 2008

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As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician or HVAC tech to advise what work is needed.
Before you do any work yourself,
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Clicking off and on and not cooling


Good day,
That is the compressor trying to start and can't. Remove the rear cover of the machine. You will see the compressor with a box clipped to it's side.
The components under this cover are, the overload protector, the relay, and on many models a start/run capacitor.
You can remove these components by pulling them off the compressor, and taking them to an appliance parts house, where they will usually be glad to test them for you.

Replace any that are bad. If they all check O.K. then the issue is a major one with the compressor, and requires a service tech.

P.S, If the machine is less than 5 years of age, do nothing. It is still under warranty. Call your selling dealer.

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If the compressor is getting power and refuses to start it is likely stuck and smacking it with a rubber hammer may temporarily free it. It will ultimately need replaced. if there is no power the reason will have to be determined, start with the defrost timer...
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To answer your question I have used standard capacitors (metal cased) to replace the ones used on domestic refrigerators and had no adverse effects. The only consideration is wiring length and physical size.

First Check the voltage to the compressor. Usually just 2 wires. If you do not have voltage and you are sure it should be running (it is turned on and plugged in) Check the controller (thermostat or Sensor/board assembly) because your problem is not with the compressor as of yet.
Assuming you have power to the compressor and the fan motor there is running up to speed the coils under neath are clean here are the items to look for to check out your compressor:

Getting to this step: Either your compressor is broken inside or the start components are not working properly. Ohm the compressor terminals to ground and across to each other.

If any read anything to ground the compressor is bad.
Your readings between the compressor terminals should all be different and you should have 1 low 1 medium and 1 high resistance reading.
Add the low and mid reading together and the sum should be close to the highest reading. If it reads say 20% more or less then retest it a couple of times to confirm your not slipping on the terminals.
Assuming the above checks out: Get a new Start relay (start capacitor if so equipped) relay and overload (and capacitor if it has one) In other words everything that is external and attached to the wires or terminals on the compressor, and replace them on to the compressor. Then if it starts problem solved if it still does same thing the compressor is bad (broken mechanically inside the compressor) and you have to decide to replace compressor or replace the refrigerating compressor be it AC or Refrigeration.
.
A few times I have gotten a compressor to start after leaving it off for 6 to 12 hours then retrying it. See the compressor unless left off for 6 to 12 hours and sometimes as long as 24 hours Is tight due to linear expansion from heat. And about 1/2 the time it is ok after new start components are installed. The other 1/2 the compressor will be ok for a day or 2 then stop again. Most likely from a “hard spot” in the movement of the internal parts in the compressor.

30 years of doing refrigeration and this has not changed.
Please rate me as high as you can and ask me to clarify anything you don’t understand.

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