How many volts does one burner pull 110 or 220?

THIS MAY HELP.

http://www.emaservicetips.com/pdfs/344_UpdateforElectricFreestandingElectricRanges_Rev.pdf

The clock display works on 120 volts but the burners and oven require 240 volts. I would check the breaker or the receptacle to see if they're bad.They may be supplying only 120 volts. One more less common problem could be the terminal block on the range where the power comes in. Very rarely they will melt. BE SURE TO UNPLUG THE RANGE if you have to check the terminal block. Hope this helps.

need to get a volt meter and check the incoming power( at the plug ) and make sure you have 240 volts!! it only takes 110 volts to run the top burners, and takes 240 volts to run the oven!!

Ok
you must have a problem with you neutral leg .
Check to mak sure all 3 wires from power cord are securely connected to machine. Next make sure recepticle at the wall
has a good neutral. Use volt meter to check your recepticle.
You should get 110 volts between any top and the bottom slot.
No 110 volts means check house wiring or recepticle
Yes 110 volts means problem with neutral wiring in machine.(Not likely)
good luck

Without model number assuming burners on top and free standing unit.
The burners working tells you there is 240 volts to the unit. There are three possibilities, the bake element is burnt out, a wire is burnt off, a control part has failed. Bake elements can not be pulled unless the power is disconnected, because very often one side of 240 volts(120v) is wired direct so unplug, do not think having all controls off is enough. You can usually pull the bake element fairly easily by taking out two mounting screws and unplugging two wires. (these can go back on either way to the two terminals, does not matter just be sure tight) Take and have tested at appliance store, usually these test about 20 ohms. If that is good need to service from back and check voltages with a meter to find where problem in circuit is.....
good luck

Also check clock it is not accidentally in time bake setting, should be manual for most cooking (do this first before anything else)

No, actually each knob has its own switch and any knob will energize the spark module which sparks at all burners. So, just replace the defective switch which slides over the shaft of the gas valve. Careful! unplug the unit, these are 120 volt switches. Good luck.

You have a defective spark module. This is a device which breaks down the 120 incoming volts to a 12 volt spark to ignite the burners. Replace module and problem should be solved.

This stove uses a special switch that turns one way for the large burner and the other way for the smaller burner. I was not aware that this had a seperate simmer burner on it, however. I think you using the wrong term there.

This is not computer controlled--the only computer on it should be the oven switch. I would assume that you need to replace the switch for the dual-size burner. If you take your model number in to Sears, or log onto Sears dot com, you should be able to get to the PARTS DIRECT web site on the computer, and if they ever sold that model you should be able to pull up a parts breakdown with expanded drawing and part numbers and prices. You should be able to buy the part from them. The part should be virtually the same as ANY recent model Frigidaire or Kenmore stove with the same style burner. This should be a very easy repair for you to make yourself, assuming that you know a little about working with electricity--remember, this stove USES 220 VOLTS!

Check out all of the wiring coming into the switch and going from the switch to the burner to be sure that there is not a short!

If you have one of the older smooth surface stoves, where the burners are part of the ceramic top, all bets are off, but anything you bought new in the last half-dozen years, should have a separate burner underneath a glass top, and the repair should be simple. Even with the older stove, it is still likely the switch, and should be no problem.

Will try to help here.. First off.. when you measure 120VAC at each terminal for the heating elements..what are you using as a reference? Ground? Since your stove is probably wired 220VAC, I would expect to see something across the two terminals to the element that isn't line voltage.. meaning, when you turn the controller to a setting, you should see something more than 120VAC across the terminals and the current will be controlled to maintain a heat setting. The burner that has an open element is indendent so that should not factor in. Heating elements are nothing more than a big resistor that generate heat when current flows thru them. Just because you have one leg of power doesn't mean you have current flow thru it and therefore that is where I think your problem is... You may have an open leg ..Check the power coming into the oven and make sure you have 220VAC across the two line voltage terminals.. Be careful ( very careful ) when doing this...
Hope this helps.

look at the bottom panel below the doors.on the left and right side youll see screws--remove them.open the doors and you should see 2 more screws.pull the panel out towards you.youll see the serial/model number on it or the frame of the oven.if the glow coil is red try to manually light the burner witha paper towel.if the burner lights, the burner may be obstructed --if not the gas valve may not be opening.you will need a voltage meter to test the coil on the gas valve.if you get the correct voltage on the valve coil which is 24 volts ac and no gas the valve is bad.if you dont have 24 volts the ignition board is bad.let me know.