Question about GE JVM3670 Microwave Oven

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Cooling fan works with door open.

The cooling fan just started to come on, and run, when I open the door with the light also comming on. There is a light buzzing not from the fan. The microwave is not heating.

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This is usually caused by either a bad door switch, a loose door switch mount, or a problem on the control panel.

Even though a door switch clicks, it may still be bad inside. Its continuity must be checked.

Switch or mount trouble can be caused by slamming the door or by opening the door while it's cooking without hitting the Stop pad first.

If you someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical information on safety, disassembly and door switches at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk

You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383

There should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel, which is very helpful when troubleshooting.

If you think the problem is on the control panel, which we repair these nationwide for $39.95 postpaid.

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Posted on Mar 16, 2008

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These above range microwaves "hoods" automatically turn on a cooling fan even when the microwave is not in use. If you read the manuals you will see warnings about the fans automatically starting. Even when the microwave is not in use opening the door likely interrupts the power to the automatic cooling fan.

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I have seen where one of the door switches becomes intermittent causing the symptoms you are describing, tough to nail down considering there are more than one door switches.

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I have a GE SpacesaverXL model JVM1350BW. It does not heat up. The interior light, surface light, fan, clock, keypad all work normally. When a cooking mode is chosen and START is pressed there is a...


I wouldn't worry about the sensor error right away.

Sometimes that's just caused when the door is opened before steam could be detected or steam was not detected in the maximum amount of time.

Once it's all working again, if you still get the error regularly, it may be a bad humidity sensor.

If the internal cooling fan IS running when you try to cook AND the oven is not heating, it's probably a failed secondary interlock relay on the control circuit board.

If the internal cooling fan is NOT running when you try to cook AND it's not heating, the bottom door switch is probably the culprit.

Here's is a file on checking and replacing door switches.

We have a sound clip of what a microwave should sound like when the cooling fan and high voltage section are working.

Listen to that very carefully, and listen to yours to see if the cooling fan is working.

When I say internal cooling fan, I do not mean the hood vent exhaust fan which you can turn on and off manually.

I'm instead talking about the internal fan which comes on automatically whenever you microwave.

There should be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating components.

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At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

Let me know if I can help you further.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

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When you hit "Start" to microwave, do the inside light, cooling fan, and turntable all come on?

When I say internal cooling fan, I do not mean the hood vent exhaust fan which you can turn on and off manually.

I'm instead talking about the internal fan which comes on automatically whenever you microwave.

It is vital that the cooling fan runs, or the turntable and stirrer won't work, and magnetron will soon be destroyed.

If not, then you probably have a bad door switch or door switch mount and should see these files:

http://www.microwavedisplay.com/safety.txt
http://www.microwavedisplay.com/disassembly.txt
http://www.microwavedisplay.com/doorsw.txt

If so, then your magnetron may be failing or the cooling fan itself may be.

We have a sound clip of what a microwave should sound like when the cooling fan and high voltage section are operating here.

If your under hood lamps recently went out, that surge could have damaged the control circuit board, which we regularly repair nationwide by mail for $39.95 postpaid in about a week or so.

There should be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating components.

0833cec.jpg

At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

You can find links to helpful exploded view diagrams and part ordering help
here.

I'd recommend that your bookmark this link to your favorites.


Feel free to contact me directly (and please include your full model number from the tag in or on the unit) for a free estimate and free tips & do-it-yourself advice.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

William E. Miller
prototech@usa.net
http://www.microwavedisplay.com

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Neither the owner's manual nor the quick start guide for this model addresses that specifically, but most commercial microwaves do work this way to ensure proper cooling.

The manual does state that when you open the door then close it, the light and fan will stay on for an unspecified period of time.

If the word "HOT" appears in the display, the magnetron is overheated and the fan will run until the temperature is brought down.

If the fan fan NEVER shuts off, then there may be a stuck relay or defective sensor.

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