I have an older style forney welder. The rods are

An unstable arc when stick welding can be caused by a few different things. Here are a few things you can try to fix the problem:

1. Check the electrode holder and make sure it is clean and tight. If it is loose or corroded, it can cause an unstable arc.
2. Check the ground clamp and make sure it is clean and tight. The ground connection must be secure for a stable arc.
3. Check the welding cables and make sure they are in good condition, not damaged, and that the connections are tight.
4. Check the welding gun and make sure it is clean and in good condition.
5. Check the welding settings, and make sure they are appropriate for the type of welding you are doing. Make sure the voltage and amperage are set correctly.
6. Check the welding rod, if it's too short, it could cause an unstable arc.
7. Check the engine, and make sure it's running smoothly and that it's producing enough power.

It's important to check the manual of the welder for troubleshooting steps and also check the warranty of the welder and see if it's still covered by the manufacturer. If you are not able to find the problem or if you are not familiar with welding equipment, it's best to take your welder to a qualified Miller Electric welder repair service center, they will be able to diagnose and fix the issue.

try striking the rod like a match. keep a good arc, not too long or short. try around 90 amps.

maybe its your volts too. make sure you are grounded properly and clean from debri's, strike the electrode like a match and keep the arc close to your work-piece. dont go too fast and make sure your not wearing to strong of a lens in your hood. gold lens number 10 are the best for 7018 rods.

Buyer beware. Contact the manufacturer and replace the needed parts.

from the research i have done if you sell it on craigslist 100 is about the most you will get for it. unless you find someone who isnt smart enough to research. fron what i understand you can get about 200 if you dis assemble and recycle.

Is this on new rods as well as one's you'be been already welding with? Depending on rod types, some will "flux over" the end, after welding insulating the tip. When you're welding at a low setting, with a small rod, sometimes it is hard to start an arc. A 7018 rod is a good example of this. Strike the rod like a woodden match, or drag it on the metal, to expose the rod. It also depends on your welder. Some have settings to help start an arc and then control the current. Older transformer welders arn't that smart and are less forgiving on low current thin metal settings.

my dad has the same problem.he says it need an exciter.

check your input power connections on the primary side of the welders transformer, then if its an infinite control welder check that control,otherwise if it's a plug- in selectable amperage check these connections,it sounds like the infinite control is getting dirty and not passing all the current it shows on the control, also double your O.C.V. on the secondary and see if its with-in welder specs

1/16th stick to 3/32nd.
3/32nd being the maximum. Don't use 3/32 for an extended period of time, or you can burn up that welder. (Even if it has a fan. If it doesn't have a fan built-in, I invite you to put a house box fan, close to the ventilation slots for the welder)

I would also recommend using 6011 rod. It's a mild steel rod, and is excellent to begin with. Usually used for filling, and medium strength situations. It does splatter, be aware of that.

Not trying to give you a tutorial on beginning welding, but would like to offer some tips:

1.Make sure the ground clamp has a good, clean surface it's clamped to. If not, it will be very hard to get the rod started, and also to keep it going. (Makes bad welds too)

2.Start with a B U T T weld. (Had to type it that way do to censorship of certain words)
That's laying two pieces of metal next to each other, and laying a bead in-between them. Easiest thing to start with. Go to corner welds next, (Two pieces together at a 90 degree angle), then try Uphill welds.

3.Shield flipped up on helmet, welder on. Lay the rod past the area you are going to start on. Past the metal edge. Lay the ->flux coating of the rod on the edge of the metal piece. The tip of the rod is past the metal edge by at least two inches.

This way you are lined up to begin the weld. Then flip your shield down, draw the rod back, until the tip of the rod touches the metal. Once the arc starts, lift the rod up a little to get the correct height, and keep that arc going.

4.Watch the PUDDLE, not the arc! You are watching the melted metal in front of the arc. You need to see how that puddle is doing, in order to compensate by bringing the rod closer, or further away.

5.Use a Zig-Zag pattern to begin with. Keep the Zig-Zag close to each other, until you are comfortable enough to make a longer pattern. Watch the penetration. Good penetration is the key, not a pretty weld.

6.Use the proper safety equipment. If the welding helmet lens has a tiny little scratch, you will burn your eyes. NO fun, believe me!
You won't know it until you wake up the next day with your eyes swelled shut!

Cover your arms, and use welding gloves. Welders give can give you a radiation burn, worse than a bad sunburn. NEVER just start welding a little with No welding helmet. Welding goggles are for the birds, or Acetylene welding!

Be safe, have fun welding!

if it's an AC welder try using 6011 0r 6013. The best rod to use on AC is odd number rod and on DC even