I have checked all my sensors that I can get to, and they are all good. I have been told and have read that there are coils or sensors on the gas valve which goes beyond my vision and reach. I have failed to be able to ge tto those sensors and cannot dismantle the structure enough to pull them and have them checked. I have been online and fail to get the schematics to come up on how to accomplish this. Any suggestions would be nice.
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Re: Gas valve replacemnet
If the unit is short cycling then there is a thermosat issue sounds like your burner is ok as the unit calls for heat it send power thru the stats and power to the ignitor to open the gas valve also check your vent going to the outside if this is clogged you will force hot air back into the unit prematurely turning off the thermostat(also a long time to dry)
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if it ignites then it's not the sensor,all you do with the meter is whatever part you're checking remove at least one of the wires,then put one lead on one side of the part and the other on the other side where the wire connects,set the meter on like 20k ohms,if the 1 stays there the part is bad if you get any other reading other than 1 the part is good,if it ignites for the first or second time check the gas coils on top of the gas valve,when the coils are starting to fail they will work fine until they heat up and then no flame,then when they cool down they could work again or you have a bad gas valve,sometimes when the gas valve is bad it will chatter and be noisy and might ignite or not,you can try tapping on the valve when the ignitor starts to glow to see if it lites but like i say if it's igniting the sensor is good there's no gas, i believe when the sensor is bad the ignitor will sit there and glow for a long time without any flame if the sensor is good the ignitor will glow for like 10 seconds and go out if there's no gas coming in from a bad gas valve or bad gas coils but it's getting no gas,hope this helps you out and if you have any other questions open the door to dryer and send the full model number so i can help you out better
My name is Peter. I am a retired field service appliance technician.
Recently, I worked on a LG gas dryer. I Ohm the thermostat and found that to be bad, but when I Ohm the ignitor I got a reading of 135 Ohms. I replaced the ignitor. The new ignitor Ohm reading was 167. In other words, the ignator did glow red, but did not have the power to open the gas valve.
Although, you checked the electrical continuity of the gas valve, that does not check the mechanical issues. Sometimes the spool in the valve sticks or does not fully open. You need to hit it with a hammer and turn the dryer on. Repeat this about 8 times.
Make sure your hot air distribution manifold is not plugged up. This too will shut your unit down.
If the coils are bad the unit will light with flame for 4 - 8 times then all of a sudden the ignitor will glow, kick off with no gas coming threw valve. it sounds like the high limit thermostat is short cycling the flame. This is the thermostat that sits on top of the burner chamber. remove 1 screw from the thermostat and blend it upwards away from the heat. Then plug unit back in and test to see if the flame stays on longer. Click here to see maytag dryer no heat posts. Contact me anytime here. Hope this helps..
Than its going to be in your heat coil/ valves and your flame sensor. The flame sensor is a rectangle box on the flame tube. Your heater coils are on the gas valve they are two round silinoids one with two pins to it and one wwith three. Follow the gas line to the gas valve on the gas valve you will see two quick connects that run to it. There is one screw and the plate cover will come off to give you access to the heater coils.
If you have anymore question please comment me back
The glowing if the ignitor indicates that the circuitry is good but the flame/radiant sensor is bad and/or one or both of the gas valve solenoid coils are not working. The flame/radiant sensor bypasses one the solenoid coils then when power is applied to the ignition circuit, the first coil opens the first valve, the ignitor glows and the flame/radiant sensor gets heated. It's contacts then opens when heated enough to unbypass the second coil and allow the gas to flow and be ignited.
Make sure the flame/radiant sensor is properly in place and aligned with the ignitor to allow proper heat sensing. You may check the continuity between the sensor's contact terminals as the ignitor glows. At first, the terminals should read close (zero resistance) and then open (infinite resistance) after about 30 seconds or so. If this is not the case, the sensor is not working and must be replaced.
The solenoid coils, one with 2 prongs and the other has 3, sitting on top of the gas valves must be both replaced if the flame/radiant sensor turns out good. But before doing so, make sure to run a test with the dryer completely assembled because sometimes the gas do not ignite when the dryer's cabinet is open. This is to prevent unnecessary replacement of the coils.
Feel free to update us about the result and if you need further advice.
Check Igniter, Igniter Sensor (Senses Igniter is glowing) & gas valve Coils. Remove Front or rear access panel to observe/access these items. Set heated dry cycle & start dryer while observing Igniter, should start to glow bright orange for several seconds, sensor should send millivolt power to valve coils that will CLICK opening valve producing blue flame for heat. If Igniter doesn't glow within a minute, its bad, If it glows & nothing else happens it's either Sensor or Coils are bad, check the coils by using Ohm meter across plug ends of coils, if bad you will get no reading on meter, coil is open & no good, or take both Sensor & Coils to repair shop and have them tested. All 3 are accessable thru access panel opening.
if the ignitor was glowing you could have bad gas coils or a bad gas valve.check the coils with a meter to make sure they are good,also when you read out all the other parts did you remove at least one of the wires from the part,if not you'll get false readings.if the coils are good make sure the wires are pushed on tightly and check the metal connectors inside the plastic wire connector that slides onto the coils,i've found some that were messed up and not making a connection with the coil.also on one of the coils there's a metal sleeve, i think it's the coil with three prongs on it,check the old coil to see if it's stuck inside the old coil,if it is stick a screw driver in it,push it out and slide it back on the post and slide the coil back on the post,if everything checks ok you could have a bad gas valve,try wacking it with something to see if it will let the gas through.let me know what you find with the meter and how you make out,
there's a thermal fuse that usually is the problem. when you push the start button; listen for 2 clicks. The motor centrifugal switch & than the coil on your valve. If you only hear 1 click, replace t-fuse. if you hear 2 clicks than ck for problems in the flate sensor,ignitor,gas valve
Yes, that is most likely the problem. Once the glow bar igniter glows so hot, the switch opens & drops power to the igniter.(The radiant sensor has continuity while cold & open when a flame is present.) At the same time, by opening it redirects power to the valve coils allowing them to open & gas flow to the burner assembly. The dying glow of the igniter fires the gas.
However, if your igniter glows, the radiant sensor is good. In this case, you'd need to replace the gas valve solenoids.