Quite simply the dryer will not power up....i have checked the breaker and do have power to the outlet....is there some sort of reset, fuse, etc ? I purchased the dryer 23 months ago.
We have an LG TROMM DLG5988W gas dryer. We have checked the filter and ducts and there were no major obstructions. There is power to the unit,(lights and controls work). The dryer won't start after we choose a mode,eg. normal mode. Any idea..?
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If your breakers are old. I'll start by replacing the breaker to the dryer at the box. It is a common failure. Breakers wear out to. Check the power cord for any burnt markings and look at the outlet as well for burnt or discolor contacts. This will overheat as well causing the breaker to exceed the limit and trip it.
This could be a bad breaker or a loose connection in the dryer plug/outlet. If the dryer just will not work at all and there is voltage at the dryer's outlet, then the dryer is defective. I would then suspect the motor as the culprit.
Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.
Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.
A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.
Your circuit breaker may be bad. Run dryer and if breaker gets hot after 10min or so the breaker is bad.
Higher heat settings draw more amperage thus tripping the bad or undersized breaker. 30 amp 2 pole breaker required.
Ck. the power cord for signs of arching. Replace power cord or outlet if damaged.
Check the breaker in your home's breaker box. The dryer will be the only thing that is on it. It will be a double breaker and looking might not tell you if it has tripped. If it isn't marked just grab the swich and see if it's "wiggly" on each double breaker. If you find a wiggler, flip it all the way over to "off" then back to "on". If the breakers are all fine, the next place to check is the wall outlet itself. If you have a volt meter, first check the slots in the outlet. If you get nothing, pull the wall plate off of the outlet and check the wires leading to the outlet. If they have power, replace the outlet. To the best of my somewhat experienced knowledge, there is no fuse in dryer and I know there is no breaker in it.
Need a voltmeter that can check for ~220 volt AC across the two slanted contacts in the wall mounted power outlet for the dryer power cord. If present, then problem is within the dryer case--probably an open heating element. If not present, check the house electrical panel to see if the twin breakers have tripped. I so, push handles OFF then ON. If trying the dryer again, and it quits heating, it probably tripped the breakers again which means that the heating element is shorted inside the case.