Question about Maytag Neptune MAH9700 Front Load Washer

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Washer wont fill

Stacked unit approx. 7 yrs. old wont fill.I will only run on the spin cycle.I've heard of a lid switch and or fuse but dont how to get at it Help please

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  • heavvyp Mar 15, 2008

    Thank you for your prompt reply zeusfaber.That sounds easy enough.I just thought it would be more of a switch problem because the switch control responsible for setting the time and which wash cycle you would wanna use [the main control which you set and normally pull out] does not respond with any indication of power going to it,no sound etc.only when you spin past everything and set it on the spin cycle does it respond.

    This is actually my mothers machine and she noticed that the machine was leaking water and promptly turn it off,returning in a few minutes to spin the rest of the water out.She waited til the next day to turn it on again... thats when she noticed nothing would happen and called me.I was thinking maybe a bad pump would cause the leaking but I couldn't get the water to start and fill so I could trouble shoot anything,then I saw on this site I believe, some lady with the same problem[nothing but a spin cycle and they were writing in and saying it would be the lid switch which initiates the water flow to fill

    Any further comments as to why it couldn't be this lid switch or the fuse to it? Thank you again

    Heavvy P

  • heavvyp Mar 15, 2008

    Thank you again zeusfaber.I'll get on in monday and when I find anything out I'll post it here.Thanks again,your knowledge is greatly appreciated




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If it runs on the spin cycle, it's almost certainly neither of the components you describe.

Before you do anything else, just double check that the water supply to the machine is switched on.

Prime suspect is the solenoid valve which lets water into the machine, and the usual cause is a burnt out solenoid coil.

Switch off both water and electricity (then double check both are genuinely off).

Pull the machine away from the wall and remove the top panel (we don't have Maytag Neptunes where I live, but on most machines you'll find you can unscrew bits of trim at the back edge of the lid, after which it will slide off easily.

Look at where the water feed hose joins the machine. You should find a plastic unit with a screw coupling for the feed hose, a hose leading off into the works of the machine, and a couple of wires going to some terminals on the top.

Carefully remove the wires and use a multimeter on ohms range to check the component. It should be a few thousand ohms. If the coil has burnt out (as they often do), the resistance will be much higher.

(On some machines, you may find more than one of these valves all next door to each other - sometimes even two or three at a time running off the same hose. If yours is like this, test the terminals on each valve in turn in the way described above - but be extra careful to make sure the wires don't get mixed up).

Assuming you do identify a failed coil, it's worth taking the valve out and popping round to a washing machine spares dealer to see if you can get a new coil for it rather than replacing the whole valve. Otherwise, you can get a new valve off the internet.

Removing and replacing the valve is a job without any tricks or surprises. Remember to note where all the wires and hoses go. Check yet again that power and water are all off before you start and be prepared to catch a few trickles of water when you take the hoses off. If you're going to change the coil, take the valve out of the machine and do it somewhere where you won't lose the skin off your knuckles.

On completion and before you put the cover back on, run the machine through a quick wash cycle (without putting your hands andwhere inside). Use a torch to check for leaks in the areas where you've been working (especially where the hose from outside screws onto the valve). Once you're happy, turn the power off again, put the cover back on and put the machine back in place.

If your initial test doesn't show one of the valve coils to be burnt out, then post a comment to this question and we'll look at some of the less common possibilities.


Posted on Mar 15, 2008

  • Alastair Macleod
    Alastair Macleod Mar 15, 2008

    With a "lid switch" or a fuse problem, you wouldn't normally be able to get the machine to spin.

    The history of leaking is a bit at odds with the inlet valve theory, so I'd definitely be inclined to test the coils (as described above) before investing in any spare parts.

    The other thing to bear in mind is that at certain stages of the cycle, the controller is inhibited from moving on until the desired water level is achieved.

    If the inlet valve coils check out OK (and bearing in mind the recent history of a leak), it would be worthwhile taking the back panel off the machine and tracking down the water level sensor (look for a smallbore hose that comes off the bottom of the drum and is then routed upwards with a small electronic unit at the top of it. The hoses sometimes chafe or perish through and sometimes get blocked with grey sludge. In theory, a blocked sensor hose could give you problems with alternately too much and too little water being allowed into the machine.




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