I have a KitchenAid range model KESC307HWH3. I am replacing the LF infinite burner switch I need the wiring hookup for the replacement part. The original part number is 9751758. The factory replacement part is a Whirlpool 8203536. The instructions are not for a KitchenAid to Whirlpool. I believe the instructions are for a Whirlpool to Whirlpool configoration. I need to know which wires to hook up which connection so I don't damage anything when I power it back up.
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Re: wiring hookup for a replacement part
Hopefull yyou havent disconnect old switch yet. whirpool and kit aid are same Co. same parts used. assuming the correct part was sent for the corrrect burner. diffrerent element will require different rated swties(ie. small , large, dual and so forth.), the indivudal switches are labeled, on the swithc itself ( L1,L2,H1 H2, P1 andso forth, so although the switches looke differnet they should stil have the same lettered terminal to plug into .
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The dials you mentioned are called infinite switches and if they control, or regulate should i say the amount of power applied to the burner, so those are the parts you need to replace. You can order online or go to a local appliance parts store, just make sure you take your model number with you, not the number in your owners manual but the model off the machine itself.
Replace your infinite switch for this (your lf burner switch). Call a parts supplier with your model number, try and get an exact switch, not a generic switch. Do not replace the switch without unpluggin your range first. Good Luck, Appliance Specialists
The part number for the infinite switch that controls the left rear burner on this model range is 9751364. This is a 1500W rated switch that lists for about $33 at appliancepartspros.com. I hope this helps you.
Ok....Just replaced the Left Front "dual burner" switch on my Kitchenaid Supurba.
Original switch symptom:
Burner was stuck on all the time. We had to switch the circuit off in the main breaker box in the basement.
New switch problem:
The new replacement switch did not work properly. The element would come on and would never cycle on and off. Thus, the net result was if you turn the burner on, it was on "high". It didn't matter where put the heat setting at...It's on high for both the inner element and the larger outer element.
I ended up taking the old switch apart and found that one of the contacts was mis-aligned and wedged itself in the "closed" position. I un-wedged the mis-aligned contact and bent it back into alignment. I took out the new switch and put the old one back in. It works perfectly.
Meanwhile, I had to figure out why the new switch was not working. The new switch comes with re-wiring instructions because it is not an exact replacement as the old switch. There is a chart that tells you what wires go to which prongs on the new switch. The new switch also includes a "jumper wire" that must be installed. Here's where I went wrong. The instructions say to jump S1 to P1 (which I did). But, I did not route it exactly as the picture shows and the brass crimp end actually hits against another unused connector. So be careful when routing the jumper wire.
Old Switch Number: 9751758 New Switch Number: 8203536 (Made by FSP Appliance Care Products - A Whirlpool Corporation)
Now for the wiring:
Description Wire Color Old Switch New Switch
& designation Terminal # Terminal #
L1 Black (RL1) 2 P1
H1 Red 3 4
H2 Orange (LFA) 4 4A
P Dark Red 5 S2
N or L2b Brown (LFN) N 2
N or L2b Red (RL2) N P2
On the new switch, use the supplied jumper wire to jump S1 to P1 as instructed.
Yes, on the old switch, 2 wires connect to a common connector (the Brown LFN & Red RL2).
Unfortunatley, I did not document the red wire (LF3)...Sorry....