Question about KitchenAid KESC307 Electric Kitchen Range

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Wiring hookup for a replacement part

I have a KitchenAid range model KESC307HWH3. I am replacing the LF infinite burner switch I need the wiring hookup for the replacement part. The original part number is 9751758. The factory replacement part is a Whirlpool 8203536. The instructions are not for a KitchenAid to Whirlpool. I believe the instructions are for a Whirlpool to Whirlpool configoration. I need to know which wires to hook up which connection so I don't damage anything when I power it back up.

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  • mwied2 Mar 17, 2008

    The info is not really helpful. The switches are different in lettering and the instructions do not match for hooking the old with the new. It is the correct switch,

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  • KitchenAid Master
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Hopefull yyou havent disconnect old switch yet. whirpool and kit aid are same Co. same parts used. assuming the correct part was sent for the corrrect burner. diffrerent element will require different rated swties(ie. small , large, dual and so forth.), the indivudal switches are labeled, on the swithc itself ( L1,L2,H1 H2, P1 andso forth, so although the switches looke differnet they should stil have the same lettered terminal to plug into .

Posted on Mar 16, 2008

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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We have a Bosch ceramic hob model no 9000329649, cooking with rear 2 rings yesterday. They will not switch on, front 2 are OK. Grill and oven fine.


check them with a meter and check the infinite switch's also

Surface burners
are typically either a coil type, solid type or a ribbon coil as used in smooth top ranges. All of these consist of a heating wire that uses electric current to produce heat. Coil type elements can be checked for continuity by removing them from the terminal block and testing them with a multi-meter.

You should also inspect the terminal ends for signs of heat damage or corrosion, and if present, you should replace the terminal block or receptacle at the same time. You will need to remove power from the range to change the terminal block. Solid elements and smooth top elements require raising or removing the main top to gain access. You will need to remove power from the range before lifting the main top. Continuity can then be checked with a multi-meter, once you have removed the wires from the element terminals.

The infinite switch
on the control panel controls the power to each surface element. If you have no heat at an element and the element and terminal block check ok, then you may have a defective infinite switch. Disconnect power to the range and remove the console back panel. Locate the switch and check for overheated wires or faulty terminals first. Test the switch's contacts for continuity with a multi-meter. If defective, replace the switch.
1.If the infinite switch does not appear to be defective, then you should check for proper voltage to the switch. This is a live high voltage test and should only be performed by qualified persons. (Locate the suspect switch for testing. Label all wires and terminals before disconnecting. A close up digital photo may be helpful.
2.On the burner control switch the terminal labeled "P" leads to the burner indicator light. The terminals labeled "H1" and "H2" lead to the burner element and the terminals labeled "L1" and "L2" (sometimes "N1" and "N2") are the power supply wires.
3.Set your multimeter to ohms setting x1. Turn the burner control to the highest temperature setting. Place one probe on pin "L1" and the second probe on pin "H1". The resistance measurement should be very low, zero to twenty ohms. If the test shows high or infinite resistance, the burner switch is defective.
4.Repeat the step above for the terminals "L2" and "H2".
5.If the control passes that test, turn the temperature setting to about the middle of the range and repeat the previous two steps. This will test for an intermittent problem with the switch. If the test does not show continuity with very low resistance, the switch should be replaced.
6.With the switch turned to the "Off" position, the resistance on each of the pairs of terminals tested above should now show no continuity or a reading of infinite resistance.
7.A test for continuity between "P" and "L1" when the burner control switch is on should show continuity. The light should be on whenever the control is turned on. If your test shows continuity, but the light does not operate, it is likely the bulb has failed.
If the burner switch shows high or infinite resistance, the switch is not passing along current to the burner and so the switch should be replaced. )

Jan 10, 2017 | Bosch Ovens

1 Answer

Kitchenaid glass cooktop element won't heat


You will need to check the "infinite switch" for that burner. Below is a video to show you how to do that. The model is different but the test is the same. Here is the switch if you should find it bad.

Nov 18, 2012 | KitchenAid KESA907PSS Electric Kitchen...

1 Answer

Kitchenaid electric stove burner stays on high


The dials you mentioned are called infinite switches and if they control, or regulate should i say the amount of power applied to the burner, so those are the parts you need to replace. You can order online or go to a local appliance parts store, just make sure you take your model number with you, not the number in your owners manual but the model off the machine itself.

May 08, 2012 | KitchenAid Kitchen Ranges

1 Answer

Lg flat surface stove burner


Replace your infinite switch for this (your lf burner switch). Call a parts supplier with your model number, try and get an exact switch, not a generic switch. Do not replace the switch without unpluggin your range first. Good Luck, Appliance Specialists

Jan 28, 2010 | Kitchen Ranges

1 Answer

I need the part number for the left rear burner switch on model Kitchenaid KERC607HWW8


The part number for the infinite switch that controls the left rear burner on this model range is 9751364. This is a 1500W rated switch that lists for about $33 at appliancepartspros.com. I hope this helps you.

Nov 23, 2009 | KitchenAid KERC607 Electric Kitchen Range

2 Answers

Need wiring solution for replacement part


Ok....Just replaced the Left Front "dual burner" switch on my Kitchenaid Supurba.

Original switch symptom:
Burner was stuck on all the time. We had to switch the circuit off in the main breaker box in the basement.

New switch problem:
The new replacement switch did not work properly. The element would come on and would never cycle on and off. Thus, the net result was if you turn the burner on, it was on "high". It didn't matter where put the heat setting at...It's on high for both the inner element and the larger outer element.

I ended up taking the old switch apart and found that one of the contacts was mis-aligned and wedged itself in the "closed" position. I un-wedged the mis-aligned contact and bent it back into alignment. I took out the new switch and put the old one back in. It works perfectly.

Meanwhile, I had to figure out why the new switch was not working. The new switch comes with re-wiring instructions because it is not an exact replacement as the old switch. There is a chart that tells you what wires go to which prongs on the new switch. The new switch also includes a "jumper wire" that must be installed. Here's where I went wrong. The instructions say to jump S1 to P1 (which I did). But, I did not route it exactly as the picture shows and the brass crimp end actually hits against another unused connector. So be careful when routing the jumper wire.

Old Switch Number: 9751758
New Switch Number: 8203536 (Made by FSP Appliance Care Products - A Whirlpool Corporation)

Now for the wiring:

Description Wire Color Old Switch New Switch
& designation Terminal # Terminal #

L1 Black (RL1) 2 P1
H1 Red 3 4
H2 Orange (LFA) 4 4A
P Dark Red 5 S2
N or L2b Brown (LFN) N 2
N or L2b Red (RL2) N P2

On the new switch, use the supplied jumper wire to jump S1 to P1 as instructed.
Yes, on the old switch, 2 wires connect to a common connector (the Brown LFN & Red RL2).

Unfortunatley, I did not document the red wire (LF3)...Sorry....

Hope this helps.....



Mar 15, 2008 | KitchenAid KESC307 Electric Kitchen Range

1 Answer

Infinite Switch Replacement


one switch cant affect them all check for a central power problem low voltage weak breaker loose wires on cord loose terminals in outlet box etc.

Feb 17, 2008 | Jenn-Air SVE47100 Slide-In Electric...

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