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Continuity test When I test the internal thermostat between the red wires there is continuity but nothing registers between the purple wires. does this mean the thermostat is bad?

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Umm . is that the thermo w/ 4 wires??? 2 large and 2 small??? if so the small wires will not have continuity(they are used for moisture setting advancing so hats normal on tht partticular thermo all othershould regitster as perfect cont, including heater

Posted on Mar 15, 2008

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I have the Kenmore series 90, model 66901692 black face control panel if that is different and it runs but does not heat up.


Above the thermostat on the heating element box at the top is a resettable thermal fuse. It has a wire coming into it then another one comes out and goes to the thermostat. check that.

May 15, 2016 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

Drier works but doesn't get hot heating coils look ok.there is a white thing with two wires going to it that has continuity.there is also a thing that looks like a black circle with 2 big red wires and...


Hello,

These 2 things your describing are they on the housing where the heat element or the housing where the lint filter is??
i suspect they are the housing where the lint filter goes and the white on is the thermal fuse and it is good because it has contunuty on it (if it were bad the dryer would not start) the one w/4 wires is the cycling thermostat annd it too is good...the red wires will have continuty and the purple wires will not.

NOW THEN WHAT YOU NEED TO CHECK is the heat element for continuty AND both of the thermostat on the housing where the element fits BOTH t-stats on that housing should have continuty.


GENE

Sep 06, 2011 | Roper Dryers

1 Answer

Not heating


Hi schoenstein8,

Firstly, without the proper E-nr number I will be shooting in the dark here, but let me help you :-)..

- Check the back of the machine for a small red button, this is part of the Reset thermostat. Usually this is pushed out, every time the element gets too hot (In most cases bad airflow), press this in again and things should be ok.
- If no button, then open at the back and look for a thermal/cut-out fuse, it will be attached to the wires going to the element. It won't help testing it for continuity while attached, so take it out and test for continuity, if no continuity, then replace.
- Last resort - Element is faulty (Also able to test with continuity, but again - detached from all wiring. If no continuity it is faulty) - Not worth repair then - Bosch elements are expensive.

Regards :-)

* If you found this solution helpful, please rate it.

Jul 07, 2011 | Bosch Nexxt 500 Dryer

1 Answer

Fisher Paykel DEGX1 no heat, therm tripping - used multimeter


Go to http://fisherpaykelparts.net/techhelp/fisher-paykel-top-load-dryers-us-models/ This forum will work you through your problem

May 31, 2010 | Fisher and Paykel DEGX1 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

My whirlpool electric dryer model ler7648pq1 continues heating even after cycle is over. keeps getting hot as long as it's plugged up.


HI. This will be the result of a failed thermostat. There are a couple of thermostat inside the unit. Each thermostat should be tested for proper continuity. A thermostat can fail by being always on, no matter what the temperature. This switch would show continuity whether it was hot or cold. In this case, the heater will not shut off and the the dryer could dangerously overheat. Usually, this issue will cause the thermal fuse to blow, but for some reason, your thermal fuse did not blow. This is troubling,

The necessary actions are to test each thermostat and thermal fuse for continuity. Use the procedure below for direction:

The thermostats are usually grouped together. The are typically oval in shape and about an inch and a half in size. They may be on the blower housing, under the lint trap or inside the vent line. There should be two wires connected to each thermostat.

Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals. You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.

To test the thermostats and fuse, set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to each terminal. You should get a reading of either zero or infinity. At room temperature, the thermostats should have a reading of zero. When the thermostats are heated to their limit temperature, they should switch off and you should get a reading of infinity. The fuse should be tested at room temperature for continuity.

  • Additionally, The only other culprit in this situation will be the actual timer control device. The timer dial cog may be fused, thus, causing the heater to stay on. If all the internal thermostats and fuse test out ok, kindly replace the timer.

May 19, 2010 | Dryers

2 Answers

Whirlpool dryer not heating up checked heating element have continuity arcroos coil connectors


Check the thermostats. Unplug one wire and test for continuity across the thermostat terminals.

Jan 03, 2010 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

How do you test dryerblower/working thermostat with 4 prongs for continuity?


The prongs with the purple wires going to them is the heater for heat selection.  The other two should have continuity until it is heated to about 135-155 degrees depending on the rating of the thermostat.  

Dec 18, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

Does not heat as fast as it used to. Has to run for two cycles before it gets warm.


Check for a partially burnt heating element or a faulty high limit thermostat. The high limit thermostat is a round device mounted on a metal plate and is usually attached to the internal ductwork. Check the heating element for any sign of burning or broken wire. It can be tested using a multimeter or ohmmeter. Check for continuity. A lack of continuity indicates a bad heating element. The high limit thermostat can be checked in the same manner. It should have no continuity. I will attach a photo of a thermal cutoff and high limit thermostat for reference. Hope this helped and best wishes.

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Sep 07, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

My dryer doesn't dry the clothes. When it 1st starts the heating element gets red & hot for about 20 seconds and then turns off. What is the problem? A bad heating element or something else.


Most likely a faulty high limit thermostat. This is a small round black device mounted on a metal plate and usually is attached to the internal ductwork with two screws. It can be tested using a mulitmeter or ohm meter. Test it for continuity. It should have no continuity. If it does, it is stuck and faulty and must be replaced. I am attaching a pic of a thermal fuse and high limit thermostat for reference. Hope this helps and best wishes.

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Aug 07, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

The dryer will not start


thermostat would not cause it not to run if the white thermal fuse has continuity ck the door switch to be sure lever is not broke also ck breaker after switch timer most logical but unless you know to ck best not just guess could be expensive

Dec 07, 2008 | Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

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