I just got this used and when i light it it lights like it should until the screen gets red then it just blows out and all you see is a flame coming up the hole and the top of the heater goes red hot because of the flame shooting straight out the hole.
Now this has 2 screens on the front of it one is a fine mesh and then top one is not as fine but seems heavier screen but the top of it is burned off.
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First check the gas, connect the regulator to the cylinder but unclip the hose and do not light the heater. Turn the gas on for a second to see if the regulator is working OK. Next make sure there are no blockages in the pipes up to the burner. If all clear then vent the pipes to clear all air. If still not getting any gas the problem could be a faulty tilt switch cutting the gas supply or a worn thermocouple. Short out the tilt switch to test and if not fixed then change the thermocouple. Found this site very useful with tips patio heater problem solving.
Turn the LP Tank Valve OFF and disconnect the heater from the tank. Wait 5 minutes and reconnect the heater to the tank. Turn the tank valve ON VERY, VERY SLOWLY (slow motion slow). Nor light the heater and turn it to high. Allow it to burn on high for several minutes, before tuning it to low. If this solved the problem, the OPD tank valve was shooting to much pressure to the heater regulator. Turning it on slowly, helps alleviate that problem.
If its leaking gas STOP using it immediately and turn off the gas line shutoff valve to the heater. Then call a professional service person to check and/or repair the unit. This is a very dangerous situation.
Here is some research I did on Mr. Heaters-- I hope they help:
your Mr. Heater the model that uses two small one pound cylinders or you have the choice to hook it up to a single larger tank? if so, you must use the special filter connected to the Mr. Heater and then your hose to tank. This happened to me and after I hooked up the filter my problem was fixed. Ron large and sealed of an area are you using it in? I ask because those units have a low oxygen sensor which will shut it down if there is not enough oxygen in the space.(kinda prevents that pesky suffocation thing). Otherwise if using it in larger cold spaces, the issue is can be from the smaller tanks. As mentioned above, a larger tank can solve this, because these units have a fairly good input rate, which will cause the smaller tanks to freeze, and lower the propane temperature and evaporation rate, basically runs out of gas until the tank warms back up. just one new cylinder, it will run on just one, to verify a problem with the cylinders. Also it could be the pilot light, sit and watch the pilot light to see if it goes out for some reason. If it does the heater will shutdown automatically, but you already know that.
red is 24volt power, white is load,I.E. relay,touch the red and wht wires together, the furnace should start, if it don't the problem is the heater, Rheat-Rcool you have a heat/ac thermostat, no ac forget Rc,try turning thermostat all the way up, dig up a multi-meter or powered light tester, touch Rh with one wire of tester,touch the other wire to different terminals until it lights,hook up your wires, you should have heat
The red light is an indicator...it is usually flashing a certain number of times...there is a sticker on the furnace or in the fan compartment or in your Users Manual that will describe the fault code associated with the red light....more info is needed.,...what code is it showing???
1. Check electricity is on.
2. Check oil is in the tank and valve turned on.
3. Switch the fan off at the bottom left hand corner.
4. Switch oil knob to No.1.
5. Set Air knob to No.3.
6. Operate re set button (right hand corner of heater under settings dial). Either press in until it clicks or if the pull out version pull out until it clicks.
Wait - ignition should take place in a few minutes and flames will appear on the left of the burner under the radiants.
You should get occasional yellow crests above the pure blue flame just visible below the top row of burner holes under the radiants.
After the red warning light goes out you can adjust to higher settings.
The radiants do not glow on low setting.
You can adjust the heater on to higher settings but this should be done gradually - no more than 2 settings at a time.
* The unit must be correctly earthed.
* Do not use anything except heater oil.
* Never attempt to re-light the heater when it is hot.
* If the red light does not appear when the oil knob is switched on, immediately turn the oil knob off. Reasons include: Heater is too hot; Electric plug turned off; failure of ignition system.
Good luck - no responsibility taken for the advice (but it is largely copied from my Vulcan heaters instruction manual which I still have (installed in 1967).
I have a different make and model, but many of these use a similar design. A battery pack (2 x D or C cell) is mounted on the kerosine tank. The batteries are used to heat a coil. The coil is pressed by an external button against the heater wick. Pressing the button also engages the switch, heating the coil until it glows red hot.
1. Open the burner chamber of the unit and confirm it has a wick installed (this is a used heater--who knows it's condition). Close the chamber. 2. Make sure the tip-over protection hasn't retracted the wick. Generally the tip-over protection is reset by a lever on the base of the burner. 3. Adjust the wick all the way up. A knob on the base of the burner does this. 4. Fully depress the electric starter until the coil touches the wick. 5. When the kerosine on the wick ignites, release the starter and adjust the wick to the desired level.
If the electric start coil does not glow, check the batteries. If the batteries are good, the starter coil may be bad. These are also replaceable.