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Heater wont ignite

Heater goes through it cycle but ignitor wont glow. Replaced ignitor/pilot assembly.no effect. pulled plug on ignitor and tested for power to ignitor on gas valve pins. I can get 25 volts on one pin if I test to ground. If I test to the two pins I dont get power. I dont have the manual for the codes the valve is flashing. If you know whats wrong or can send the codes it would be appreciated. send to mertenshubert@hotmail.com. Thanks.

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Can you give us a hint as to a make and model? Check the reverse side of the access panel within the wiring diagram for diagnostic codes.

Posted on Mar 16, 2008

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Heater will not ignite


  1. Do you have a standing pilot style heater = Milivolt
  2. or is it an IID = Spark style ignitor
  3. Or... Hot surface Ignitor = glows red hot like an auto cigarette lighter?

Most common problem I have come across over the last few weeks, is pressure switch not closing, meaning - dirty filter. Try cleaning your filter: backwash or rinse cartridges.

  1. is pilot staying on, and burning well?
    1. If so, is htr's gas valve in ON position?
  2. Do you hear sparking?
    1. If No, then one of the safety switches is keeping heater from firing...
      1. Toggle switch - on/off
      2. Thermostat - turned up high?
      3. Pressure switch - closes circuit when pump comes on
      4. 2 each high limits
      5. Fusible link / roll out switch
    2. If yes, either gas valve is off, is bad or the Ignition module is bad? Some call it grey box.
      1. You will need to test for voltage at the common and MV posts of the gas valve - 24 to 28 volts. If voltage = bad gas valve; if no voltage = bad IID Module (Intermittent Ignition Device)
  3. Do you see a bright red glow in the burner tray area?
    1. If yes, either fuel supply is off, or Ignitor has worn out and the glow is not hot enough to ignite raw fuel.
    2. If no, check voltage at Ignitor - depends on make and model of heater- could be as low as 24 volts and as much as 110 volts. So... No voltage at the supply wires = bad sending component, again depend on brand and model, could be ignition module, could be circuit board?
    3. If yes voltage, bad Ignitor
      1. Again, this is if fuel supply is confirmed.
Good Luck

May 08, 2015 | Teledyne Laars Laars Lite 2 Pool Heater...

1 Answer

Igniter issue


unplug the cord to the heater element if still pops unplug ignitor if still pops bad board if ok plug in ignitor if pops bad ignitor if ok plug in heater if pops bad heater element or cut wire

Jul 10, 2014 | Dometic Refrigerators

1 Answer

I can smell gas but heater will not ignite. Display shows that the heat is on. Thanks!


First of all, be careful while looking into the system when the gas comes on because it could unexpectedly ignite and burn you.

You listed this question in the Jandy Lite 2 Natural Gas Pilot Light Heater. If your heater is a pilot light heater then the pilot light needs to be lit so when the gas comes on it will ignite.

If your unit contains a thermal ignitor it should glow brightly when the gas starts. If it is glowing then it is probably not glowing brightly enough or not in the right place and therefore needs to be either replaced or repositioned. If it is not glowing then you should measure the voltage using a volt/ohm meter going to the ignitor. If it reads about 115 VAC then the ignitor is broken and needs to be replaced. If it reads much lower voltage then the board that supplies power to it probably has a problem on it. It may be a defective relay, bad solder joint or some other problem. I would first re-solder the relay connections to the board and see if that fixes it. Otherwise the board will need to be replaced.

If the unit has a spark ignitor and you hear a spark sound it may be too low power or the spark probe might be in the wrong place and therefore not delivering the spark to the fuel air mixture. If you don't hear the spark then you may have a bad relay or bad solder joint to it.

Please let me know how this works out. Thank you.

Sep 03, 2011 | Jandy Lite 2 Natural Gas Pilot Light...

1 Answer

I HAVE PROBLEM WITH HEATER IS SWOING 1F IN THE SCREEN


YOur 1f code is actually a IF code which stands for "ignition failure".
This can be caused by many things, but the most likely is either the ignitor has failed, or the flame sensor has failed.

Make sure the gas manual gas valve is open. Remove from panel so that you can see the ignitor.
Turn off power, then turn back on. After 90 seconds, the ignitor should start to glow red hot. If this is not occuring, then it is likely the ignitor or ignitor wiring.

If the ignitor does glow, then the heater ignites, but still goes off showing the IF code, then it is the flame sensor.

If the ignitor glows, and the heater does not ignite, it is likely the gas valve or ignition control.

As stated above, the ignitor is most likely.

Dec 30, 2010 | Hayward H Series Pool & Spa Heater 400k...

1 Answer

My dryer is GLGR341AS1, it works correctly but not dry clothes, along with not hot. Please if anyone can help me. A technician told me I needed to light the pilot, is this correct?


HI. The tech was not correct, in this case. Your unit dose not have a pilot. It is equipped with a Glow bar, for ignition purposes.

Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting. If the fuse test proves that is is operational, move on to the thermostats.

The dryer uses multiple thermostats to regulate the temperature. When the temperature is higher than the preset limit of a particular thermostat, the thermostat breaks the circuit and the heater goes off. When the temperature cools enough, the thermostat closes the circuit again and the heat can come on.

Most dryers have a choice of temperature settings, therefore a separate thermostat is used for each setting. The selector switch or timer control then routes the circuit through the appropriate thermostat.

If a thermostat fails, it may prevent the heat from coming on, or cause long drying periods This happens because the thermostat does not close the circuit when the temperature falls below the operating temperature of the switch. It is a simple matter to test a thermostat; it should show continuity when the switch is cool and no continuity when it is warmer than its rated temperature.

A thermostat can also fail by being always on, no matter what the temperature. This switch would show continuity whether it was hot or cold. In this case, the heater would not shut off and the the dryer could dangerously overheat. As a safety precaution a second thermostat is used to cut-off the heater, or burner assembly when this occurs. This will be the thermal fuse, as stated above.

The thermostats are usually grouped together. The are typically oval in shape and about an inch and a half in size. They may be on the blower housing, under the lint trap or inside the vent line. There should be two wires connected to each thermostat.

Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals. You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.

To test the thermostats or fuse, set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to each terminal. You should get a reading of either zero or infinity. At room temperature, the thermostats should have a reading of zero. When the thermostats are heated to their limit temperature, they should switch off and you should get a reading of infinity. The fuse should be tested at room temperature for continuity.


Now, if the thermostats are ok, and test out well, move on to the burner assembly, and ignitor test.


The easiest way to check the ignitor is to observe it. Remove the small access panel in front, select a high temperature setting and start the dryer. Watch the burner assembly, shortly after starting the unit the ignitor should begin to glow or spark. If you see it glow or spark, then the ignitor is working. If the ignitor did not appear to function and it is the spark type, it may be out of adjustment which generally requires professional service or it may require replacement. If the ignitor is the glow type, you can test it for resistance with a multimeter.


The ignitor has two wires connected to it.Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire itself). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.

Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to each terminal. You should get a reading anywhere between 50 and 600 ohms. If you get a reading of zero or infinity, the ignitor is definitely bad and will need to be replaced.

Ok, if the ignitor is ok, and functioning well, move on to the last area of concern. This will be the Burner assembly.



On the gas valve are one or two coils (solenoids) used to open and close the valve to control the flow of gas. If a coil fails, gas will not flow and the dryer will have no heat.

The easiest way to diagnose a problem in the burner assembly is to observe the burner operation. Remove the small access panel at the bottom, front of the dryer, select a high temperature setting and start the appliance. Watch the burner assembly, shortly after starting the dryer the ignitor should begin to glow. Next you should hear the click of the gas valve coil and a flame should ignite. The flame should be mostly blue and it should remain on for a minute or more.

If the ignitor glows for several seconds (up to 15 seconds) and then goes out, the problem is probably the coils (solenoids). If the ignitor glows and stays on, then the problem is usually the flame sensor. If it ignites and then quickly goes out, it is most likely a problem with inadequate air flow.Test the coil for resistance using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X10. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should change from a reading of infinity to roughly 1300 ohms (+/- 150 ohms) when the probes touch the terminals. If the reading is infinity or substantially different from 1300 ohms, the solenoid should be replaced.






Dec 28, 2009 | Frigidaire GLGR341AS Gas Dryer

1 Answer

The fan works, no spark, have replaced ignitor assembly checked the high limit switch with ohm meter, room temperature switch is closed.


check for 24 volts at ignition module n pull the wire that provides the spark off the ignitor n see if it tries to arch or spark. your electrode on the pilot assembly might not be arching onto the hood of the pilot assembly. good luck!

Nov 24, 2009 | Reddy Heater RLP100 Portable Forced Air...

1 Answer

Water heater won't stay lit


Sounds like the thermocouple is bad , if , your holding the ignitor pressed long enough . Rating of 1 - 10 , this would be a 4-5 . Don't replace the pilot assembly , just the thermocouple .

Aug 27, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

Timing off?


it sounds like you are not getting gas out the of the pilot assembly.If you take the 1/4 gas line off of the gas valve and try to blow through it. If you can't then the orifice is plugged. If you can blow throw it then i would say that the gas valve is bad.do you have propane or natural gas. If propane then i would say pilot orifice is plugged.

Apr 04, 2008 | Goodman GMS80904BNA Open Flame Mid-Size...

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