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Rewiring Crosley Shelvador

Hi I'm trying to rewire a Crosley Shelvador Electrosaver fridge, it is an old model and not sure how the wiring connects as old wires were cut off and what left is faded. not sure where earth, live and negative go or where they should connect on the fridge. it has a square adaptor that reads "control" on one end and lamp on the other, which connects between the thermostat controller and the light. the cable that is on there is three core, black, green and looks like yellow?? these are two prong connectors.

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SOURCE: PTC relay on compressor

Try to find the "secret" wiring diagram.  Almost all refrigerators have a hidden paper wiring diagram.  It is usually tucked into a slot under the refrig, behind the front grill, or otherwise on the inside of the lower rear cardboard fan cover, or sometimes inside the back area near the fan.  While you're in there, it's a good practice to clean the coils.

Posted on Oct 23, 2007

  • 1073 Answers

SOURCE: refrigerant pressures

normal 3 lbs on low side

Posted on May 28, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Installing an overload switch (part #8201799)

I found the part I needed. Thanks anyway.

Posted on Apr 02, 2009

  • 531 Answers

SOURCE: Refer will not get cold.

my advice to you call service

Posted on Apr 02, 2009

  • 4059 Answers

SOURCE: wire that connects thermostat to air diffuser assembly severed

Yes, the air diffuser has to open to allow the cold air from the freezer to be blown into the fridge.

Posted on Sep 21, 2009

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The light in my Kelvinator fridge will no longer work, can it be fixed, globe has been replaced , also

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Zanussi zx99/5 not working ,lights still working but freezer defrosting and fridge getting warmer

sounds like the thermostat inside the fridge has gone.
The information I have provided is a guide and is not directly related to the make and model of the appliance brand you have but seems to cover the majority of household fridge freezers I have come accross. There is a dial inside the fridge usually up on the right side wall of the fridg where the light is. It is usual for the thermostat unit to be inside the plastic housing behind the dial. It is easy to replace the thermostat because I have done it myself and it worked. I am not an expert so if I can do it then anybody could. the unit is usually a standard replacement unit which costs roughly £20.00 available from fridge freezer repair shops. I got my replacement from Sale Appliances, Victoria Avenue, Southend-on-Sea, Essex. The unit comes with the thermometer type wire which fixes to the back of the fridge - inside that is- already attatched to it and all you need to do is remove the screw holding the housing in place (unplug from mains first of course), remove bulb, prise off the plastic housing to reveal thermostat unit, take some detailed pictures of how the wires are attatched or take detailed notes and diagrams, pull off the eelectical connectors (may need a pair of pliers to help, but must be gentle so as not to rip wires out of the connectors), put in new thermostat and rewire as it was before. You will not have to literally rewire the thing but simply slide the wired connectors onto the correct place. The connections are numbered both on the old unit as well as the new unit. Dont worry if the connectors on the rear of the new unit is different to the old one so long as you connect the wires to the same number it wont matter where that connector is located e.g. number two always fixes to the number two marked on the unit, number 3 to numbr 3 etc.

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Here's some info regarding the check issue you're experiencing:

Problem. Unit controls go to "check"
There is a common problem with, Dometic RM2807 or RM2811 and most later model Dometics with upper controls. The refrigerator's "check light" comes on or the refrigerator just shuts down seemingly for no reason. Another common problem occurs while on 120v. The refrigerator might switch to gas or just shut down even while you have a good 120v supply.

Answer. Dometic RV refrigerators with the push button upper control boards have a problem with the main power boards. The power board components are encased in yellow epoxy, reducing heat transfer. This tends to cause them to run too hot which in turn can often cause the power board to fail completely or cause problems such as listed above. We have found the only effective repair is to replace the power board. We do not use the Dometic replacement as they too can fail. The Dometic replacement also requires you to rewire the board and gas valve. The only board we recommend is the P-711. The P-711 not only will fix these problems but does not require the rewiring. It uses all the standard wiring. See Power Boards

Hope you find this helpful and best regards!

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no the problem is not the 10 gage wire , 10 gage is good for 30 amp circuits and you can always use it provided it is fused or breaker to accommodate the smallest wire in the circuit example , if a circuit contains 14,12,and 10 gage wire the fuse or breaker must be sized to accommodate the smallest wire which is the #14 which means it would be fused @15 amps but the circuit would work fine as long as you did not exceed the 15 amp rating on the circuit , you must have something wired improperly in the circuit re-check the wire connections

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Code actually calls for the refrigerator to be on a separate circuit for this reason. you may have a refrgerator that may have a higher voltage spike at compressor start up and that is causing the trip. You can try upgrading your GFCI to a 20amp (most are 15amp). Although you may have to replace with a standard outlet if the problem does not subside.

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1 Answer

Corsley shelvador

sounds like the problem is your cold control... have you tried turning it down some?.. thats the only thing that controls the temp in your refrigerator and will shut down all fans when in reachs... what ever the set tempiture is Try turning it down.. if that doesnt work.. you will have to replace it.

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