Question about Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer
Random at any point during a cycle. I am really frustrated with this machine which is only two years old and cost me 1200.00. Whirlpool has been no help. It looks like my only option is to purchase a new CCU for about 150.00 and try that. If that doesn't work next try replacing the MCU for about 150.00 and see if that fixes it.
I will never purchase another Whirlpool appliance.
Yea id call them back and fight them to pay for the repair, at least the part , tell you saw it on the internet.. It was one of the trickiest ,wouldnt say common but def. an issue with this machine. In my own experience replacing the top ccu has done the trick at least 90 percent of time.F11 is communincation error between the top and bottom boards, butalso goes through the latch assy as well. and as far as the ccu goes there are 2 out there, check your model before ordering look closely cause a a ghw9150pw0 is a diffrent board then a ghw9150p1( and different by a bout $200 in board pricing)
Posted on Mar 15, 2008
Earlier i just researched code "dl" (door lock), the washer would not start, door would not lock. this site under this code failure came up with a Wiz called "Coldcut".
I took the motherboard out and searched around for the crack with a microscope, I found that every one of the relays had bad solder joints with micro-cracks around the legs. This did not happen due to wear or vibration.This was a new replacement board. It was just a bad solder job on the factory wave solder machine. QC issue.
After re-soldering all the relays legs I have run the machine for a month now without any issue.
So there it is the final fix for the dreaded door lock F dl issue. and likely any other random error issue.
Comment by Coldcut, posted on Jan 25, 2008 the constant clicking and then F DL failure is symptom
If you want to test that the relays have a bad solder joint as I had found. after opening the machine top metal cover ( 3 screw in top rear), on the front of the CCU motherboard push up on one of the white connectors that has the black wires gently .you can safely do this as this is the low voltage area,
the machine will then gain control of door lock and the front buttons will now work.
stay away from the pink wires they are 110volts.
Yes resetting the power to the machine will sometimes work but the failure will reoccur randomly.
Just mark all the connectors location and remove the board open the plastic and remove the board. flip it over and add new solder to all the relays ( white square boxes) legs. Reassemble and rest assured you have fixed the issue.
BTW if you need to open the door manually, unplug unit , remove top washer cover, reach down (tight area) and below the front door latch you will feel a ring, push it down and the door will open. the same can be done from the bottom access panel but you will have a cramp in no time.
Comment by Coldcut, posted on Jan 26, 2008 yes those white boxes are the relays that control the door locks.
but while you are in there soldering there is another relay off to the side as I remember re-solder it too. I found that any relay on the board had micro-cracks around the legs.
Comment by Coldcut, posted on Jan 26, 2008 Also can you take a closeup of the bottom of the board before you fix the solder joints to show folks the issue before and after. Comment by Coldcut, posted on Jan 30, 2008 On a side note I have found that this same board is used in many brands of top loaders.and have of course the same issues.
I have notified the makers of this model what I found and they are forwarding it to their engineers . sic.
Posted on May 08, 2008
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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