I have an AWR1-1W that won't power up, makes a loud pop when unplugged. I know the fix for the newer version of this radio is the 5vdc power supply transistor. This is the older version with the 3 AA batteries for back up not the 9VDC battery. Do you have any suggestions. I can't even find the 5vdc supply in this radio, do you have a schematic. I have schematic for the series III of this radio but not the older version. If you can offer some info I'd appreciate it. Thanks
Q401 is listed as a Sanyo 2SC4695. It is marked "WT." It should be on the
bottom of the main board, on the side with the terminals that accept
the battery springs (this applies only to units with the three "AA"
backup batteries, board numbers 177171 and 179551 AFAIK).
With the board upside down in front of you, the battery terminal end
(with the "W" shape) should be on your left. Near the middle peak of
the "W", slightly towards the front, the third transistor from the left
edge of the board should be Q401, adjacent to test point M30 (the +5V
supply), as well as R405 and test point Z27.
Note that the test points are just normal board vias with labels, they have no special shape or size to help you identify them. :(
If there is no +5V on test point M30, but the +12V supply on nearby test point M32 is OK,
Q401 may be bad. I have successfully used an Infineon BC817 NPN AF
transistor in the SOT23 package as a replacement for the original
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A loud "pop" in any electronic device is the equivalent of a massive heart attack for a human. They normally don't survive them. The noise is from some capacitor somewhere in the device exploding from old age or a power surge. And old age for newer TVs is in the range of 3 years, some even less. It's the way they make them these days...they want you to be buying a new one in just a few years, so they under-engineer the electronics to the bare minimum so they don't have the long-lasting lifetime of the older style electronics we have come to appreciate.
Make sure that your phone is discoverable, it is amazing how many people dont know that you have to make your phone discoverable for the device you are connecting t to be able to find you.
If it is and works with other devices it may be the BMW version of bluetooth. Just like every other piece of software and hardware newer bluethooth versions are released as time goes on.
As I understand it, Bluetooth on older devices run on a different version of bluetooth to newer devices. This is most often the issue when someone has sync issues. So newer devices will find or link to older ones but not necessarily the other way around. One of my jobs is driving all types of cars and I find that older cars have issues syncing to my iphone than newer ones.
All I can suggest is to try syncing an older phone or device to your BMW just to ensure there are no issues with the BMW connection.
The system you have is the backward compatable "FAT" PS3. One of the biggest issues with them was the over heating. The clock speed in the older systems varied greatly from the newer because they had a completely different power supply system. The older systems where often loud because it had to cool not only the cpu/apu but the power supply as well. I recommend, either putting up with it, or stripping it down, disabling the fan, and pop it on a tabletop cooler.
In 2005 GM introduced Dexron VI to supercede all previous versions of fluid to use in automatic transmissions. You can continue to use Dexron III, and it will work fine in your older application. However, Dexron VI is backwardly compatible. This newer specification of ATF is supposed to handle heat and shifting better than the older fluids.
One further imprtant note: Do NOT use Dexron VI in manual transmissions and power steering units.
A 2004 Chevrolet Aveo uses Dexron III (H) automatic transmission fluid.
Read an artcile in the below link: http://www.aa1car.com/library/atf.htm
Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I`ll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.
The main power supply regulator board has the fault. Check if any electrolytic capcitor/s has bursted out. Replace them if any. If this do not help you. repalce the board as card basis. Replacing it as card basis is fine, rather than making 'surgery' to it.
Have you tried resetting your 200W? Nuvi 2xx & 2xxW: There are (2) different versions of this series. Some will have the reset on the bottom, where the decal is. There will be a small flap labeled "reset". On newer units, slide the On/off power switch to the left and hold for at least 8 seconds and then release. Let me know if this worked for you. Thanks for using FixYa
I know for mac's it is a bit different.. on PC you can play an older game no problem but for some reason on mac you cannot?
I have a Macbook, and i tried to play Diablo 2... Yes very old game .. but since i was on mac OS 10.5 + ... the CD would not read.... if it was a pretty popular game there might be a newer download or patch you can install so that it will work but other then that i dont think you can.