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I just installed a 30 gal model #82v30-2 and conected the cold and hot water inlet and outlet backwards and then activated the electric power to the water heater.
After 5 or 10 minutes realized the mistake and i did reconect the pipes correctly but now i don't get any hot water.
Take these steps, ensure you are recieving correct voltage to the heater. If this has been confirmed, then using an ohmmeter, with the power turned off, check the resistance through you heaters. You should read a resistance through the heater(s). If you read OL, it means the heater is broken, and if you read 0 the heater is shorted. Hope this helps
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Not familiar with this model but most are generic. Turn the water off; Release the pressure with the pressure relief valve and leave it open; Undo the cold water inlet assembly and drain the tank; Disconnect the element wires from the thermostat; The elements are held in by 4 bolts. Undo the bolts and remove element; Installation is the reverse of above.
Have you tried it with both (hot rod and Gas ) turned on at same time? Is tank well insulated? (looking from behind tank.) Does temperature drop off quickly, or gradually? Did it supply hot water better before, or this is first time you really measured it out? Need to keep in mind that as hot goes out the top fitting to hot lines, cold is coming in the bottom fitting and beginning to mix with hot, which obvioulsy will cause hot to gradually become warm as it enters. 2 gallons out hot tap, 2 gals., at bottom of tank, then mixing as it flows in usually equals, about 2 gal or less of warm, then cold again. Get many complaints of only enough for a short shower when they have 6 gal tank. You can try adjusting temperature up a little to see if it helps. Keep an eye on pressure relief valve dripping excessively as well as shut pump off for 20min-30 min, then turn it back on before touching any taps, to see if it cycles at all, indicating a leak in the system. If pump doesn't cycle when turned back on, no leaks.
My water heater has three water connections on the top of it one has a C
for cold is that a inlet or outlet ? IT'S THE COLD INLET. The other spot has a H for hot is
that a inlet or outlet ? IT'S THE HOT OUTLET. And the other one is not marked what is that
one for and is it a inlet or outlet ? please email me at
[email protected]. The last one is a pressure release valve that lets off excessive pressure when the temperature goes too high in the unit. When you install the heater, it should be installed into the drain pan that existed before or into a new one. You should also install a drain pipe from the valve to that drain pan, or into the drainage system for the house. This may depend on the codes where you live. Also install a good quality shut off valve on the inlet side for emergencies. A Ball type is good. Hope this helps, Best Mark I'm new to this site, so I'm not sure if I can email you directly or not. I believe not. Good Luck.
COLD MIX, HEATER DEACTIVATES If inlet water temperature is over 70°F due to geographic location, water maybe very hot out of the tap. This requires a lot of cold water to be added with it in order to attain a useable hot water temperature. The addition of too much cold water will overpower hot water demand from the tankless water heater. This slows the flow within the tankless water heater, decreasing it below activation point, which shuts off the heater. The end result is nothing but cold water coming out of the outlet. See: TWH E2-04 Overcoming fluctuating temperatures [PDF].
FLUCTUATING WATER PRESSURE If the water pressure in the home is erratic and the water flow is not consistent while a tap is opened, then the temperature of hot water will fluctuate. The minimum water pressure for the home should be 30psi or greater. For people on well systems the minimum pressure range is 30-50psi. The use of a pressure reducing/regulating valve is an effective way to maintain constant water pressure to the water heater. Watts brand 25AUB- ¾" or N35B-¾" pressure reducing/regulating valves or equivalent is suggested.
CHANGING FLOW RATE Major changes in flow rate can adversely affect the output water temperature of the heater. Increases from one major fixture running to multiple fixtures running at one time can cause the temperature to fluctuate. Stay within the heater's specifications. See: TWH E2-03 Outlet temperature vs. flow rate [PDF].
Hi, Often the hot water tanks will begin to leak at the weld around one of the inlet/outlet holes.... the tank will need to be replaced as they is no way to repair that...
The heating element must be shot. There is an adj there, but it is a tiny dial, and I'm not sure about the 30 gal, but most heaters have 2 elements. If yours starts out too hot then runs out, Blame the element, or check the breaker with a meter to make sure you have voltage to both legs of the 220 volt line. Sometimes one will quit there, and leave you half power. Check it out.
If the display is blank, verify power to electrical outlet. (120VAC/60Hz properly grounded circuit required). Verify that the heater on/off switch is in the on (I) position.
Verify the fuses in the control unit are good.To access fuses, the control unit must be removed. See BULLETIN TWH-G2-24 Two spare fuses are located inside lower access panel of control unit.
Make sure cold water inlet connection is plumbed to the right side of heater when facing unit.
A minimum of 0.8 gallons per minute (GPM) (3 l/m) is required to activate the heater. A quart container should fill in 20 seconds or less to activate heater.
Clean inlet filter screen per chapter 5.2. of the installation manual.
Inspect the water path for obstructions. Make sure all showerheads, faucet aerators and whole house filters are clear of debris.
The heater activates when the water flow through the unit is at or above the required minimum of 0.8 GPM (3 l/m). A crossover creates back pressure on the water flowing through the heater. Therefore, a higher flow rate than normal is needed to force the heater to activate. To check for a plumbing crossover, shut off the cold water supply feed to the water heater. Then open all of the hot water taps served by the heater. Wait 10 minutes and check for water flow at taps. There should be no water flowing. Any continuous flow of water indicates a crossover is present and must be corrected. Consult a professional plumber for help in correcting a crossover. Failing single lever faucets and mixing valves are common causes of plumbing crossovers.
With the ON/OFF switch turned to OFF (O) position and the power supply cord unplugged, remove theunit's front cover (See Page 5. Fig 3 of installation manual). Check wire connections between the water valve, control unit and electrode set. See chapter 9.2 of installation manual for location of these parts.
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