Put the stereo in a dash on a boat, tested it out and worked fine. Was fine for a few days then it rained, i guess it isn't a waterproof area that i put the stereo in. I went to try it out today and the numbers on the screen were all screwy looking, couldn't actually read anything on the screen. tried to put in a cd but it wouldn't take it, and it just seemed to be doing random things like trying to eject out of nowhere. When i put the cd in and it came back out (only went in about half way) it came back out with water spots on it. after that i realized it must have gotten wet in there. Is this unit fixable or do i have to get another?
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Electronics are required to accept interference from outside sources by the FCC - it would seem there is some other component on your boat that is causing this, and there is no easy solution - other than buying a different stereo. I am assuming here the stereo has a remote, which operates typically on an infra red band.If you have a water cover for the stereo ( the type that has a tinted 'box' that closes over the face of the unit) you may have success by taping a layer of aluminum foil the the inside of the cover(This would be preferred, since the 'eye' for the remote is in the faceplate of the stereo). If that doesn't work, then I would next try to shield the stereo body with foil - being very careful to NOT put the foil directly on the body, since it needs those air vents open to not overheat. Possibly you could line the location with foil? the foil may or may not work also - you might have to go with a thin sheet metal , like rain gutter scrap you could buy from a local seamless gutter company.This is not a guarantee that it will work after all of the effort, so consider getting a non- remote stereo. Try the stereo with your other components off(your Loran, fish finder, motor and ignition, etc.) You may need to run a wire directly to the battery for this test. With the stereo on FM, turn on each component and see which one is causing the undesired effect. Hope this helps and thanks for using Fixya!!
TAKE IT OUT AND TRY IT ON A 12V BATERRY AND IF IT TURNS ON ITS GOOD AND IF IT DOESNT IS NOT GOOD. IF IT TURNS ON FOLLOW UR CONSTAN AND UR POWER WIRES AND SEE IF IT HAS A FUSE BOX IN THE BOAT/ CHECK THOSE FUSES. AND CHECK UR BOAT BATTERY TOO CAUSE IT COULD HAVE DIED WHEN TESTING THE STEREO TOO IT HAPPENS ALOT ON BOATS
Well, I have the same problem and I would think it has something to do with the RCA-connections. If I power up my head unit while I have my main fuse for the amp's removed and then replace the fuse as the head unit is already playing music (thus putting out a current through the RCA-connections) it works just fine. But if I just power up my stereo with the fuse in, my subs go all crazy. I guess it has something to do with disruptions in the rca cable. Maybe they are drawn too close to some power cables or speaker cables?
For a wiring diagram go to an auto parts store and get a repair manual, about $15-18. Or just go and get an aftermarket stereo at Best Buy (or wherever). They will have what you need to install it. The sound will be MUCH better.
Bottom line is that boats are a hrsh environment for electronics. Moisture, salt, and vibration all conspire to undo solder joints and electrical connections. 4 years is a pretty good life span on a boat. A solder connection within the unit could have let go. A good repair shop could probably fis the bad connection but you can probably replace the unit for less.
I had this same exact problem when my last older Kenwood Marine stereo cooked itself while I had it up loud for a few weekends on the lake. (smelled like it had burned inside). I went out and bought a new Kenwood KMR-550u stereo deck. (I do not have an additional amp). I hooked it up to the exact connections where my older Kenwood stereo unit had been hooked up, as I never had a problem with this for the past three years until it failed after smelling of burning elelectrical. I had chalked the problem up to heavy rain we had one day. Every time I turned up the volume, sometimes up to 27 out of 35 possible, or 29, or 32, the stereo would suddenly shut off as if I had turned it off. After a few seconds the stereo would come back on, but unless I was quick enough to turn down the volume it would do it again right away. Of course on a boat, we were beached in a cove and the engine was not running when I encountered this. I searched the internet finding hundreds of similar complaints and several dozen theories of all types, but only a couple that pointed me towards the power (voltage) idea as the problem. I put a volt meter on the positive & negative wires powering the stereo. I watched as I gradually turned up the volume, the voltage on the power wire gradually decreased from 12.5 volts, down into the 11 range, and as it hit 10.9 or 10.8 volts it shut off typically around a volume of 32. The red power wire in my boat that never seemed to have an issue with my old stereo until it fried was determined to actually be inadequate for the power flow for the new Kenwood, and probably was the culprit of my failed older unit. I offer this sound advice: Run a new pair of positive & negative wires directly from the battery (with an appropriate fuse of course (the deck has a 10 amp fuse in it's back so I would use that at the battery) to the stereo. Check the voltage as you turn the volume up into the high 20's and low 30's to ensure you are still getting voltage in the mid to high 11-12 volt range. The stereo is designed to require a minimum of 10.8 volts to operate, and when it drops below that it protects itself and shuts down.