New machine? nahhh..just the motor in the bottom is roasting...and you should not let your washer smoke..will get tub cancer(smiling)

There is a clutch assembly under the tub that controls the tub and the agitator. It sounds like the problem is with that.

You most likely need a new tub seal, but check your hoses and pump first http://www.appliancepartspros.com/motor-basket-tub-parts-for-whirlpool-wtw7600xw2.html

The tub and agitator are two different pieces. The tub bearings or seal may be broke.

Servicing the Tub and Agitator

©2006 Publications International, Ltd.
Replace a damaged agitator
with a new one of the same type.
Unscrew the cap on top of the
agitator and pull straight up;
the agitator should lift off.
The washing machine tub, or basket, generally doesn't cause problems. However, at times it may cause damage to the laundry, make a lot of noise, vibrate, or stop completely.

If laundry is torn during the wash cycle, feel around the tub. If you find a rough spot, you may be able to smooth it with an emery board. Sand the spot lightly. If this doesn't work -- or if you have to cut to bare metal to remove the roughness -- the tub should be replaced. In this case, it's probably much wiser to replace the entire washer.

The agitator -- the finned part that fits on the tub shaft -- can also tear laundry if the fins are cracked or broken. You may be able to solve the problem temporarily by pinching off the splinters with pliers and lightly filing the plastic smooth, but this is just a stopgap measure; the agitator should be replaced. Replace a damaged agitator with a new one of the same type. To do this, unscrew the cap on top of the agitator. With the cap off, pull straight up on the agitator; it should lift off. If it doesn't move, rap its side with a hammer. If it still won't lift off, drive wedges under the bottom rim of the agitator to dislodge it. Then set the new agitator into place and replace the agitator cap.

Damage to the snubber, a padlike device sometimes located under the agitator cap, can cause the machine to vibrate excessively. The snubber may have a suspension spring in it. Lift off the agitator cap and examine the snubber. If the spring is broken, or if the pad is visibly worn, replace the entire snubber. Snubbers might also be found at the splash guard at the top of the tub, under the transmission, or as part of the water pump housing. Look around until you see it.

If the machine doesn't have a snubber, listen for noise at the suspension unit between the tub and the machine cabinet. The suspension unit has fins or pads that may need replacement. In some cases, the entire unit may have to be replaced. Another noise point is the basket support nut. Tighten the nut or, if you can't tighten it, replace it.

Sudden tub stops can be caused by a broken motor belt, but they are usually due to poor tub loading. Check to see if wet laundry is wadded around the bottom of the tub shaft, or under the basket or agitator assembly. Remove the basket or agitator in order to remove the laundry easily.
Replacing Drive Belts and Tightening Pulleys

The drive belt (or belts) of a washing machine may become worn or damaged, causing noisy operation or stopping the washer entirely. A damaged drive belt is easy to replace. Remove the back panel of the washer to gain access to the belt. To remove the belt:

Step 1: Loosen the bolt on the motor bracket and move the motor to put slack in the belt.

Step 2: Remove the old belt and stretch a new one into place on the pulleys.

Step 3: To put tension on the new belt, use a hammer handle or a short pry bar to push the motor into position while you tighten the bolt in the adjustable bracket. The belt should have about 1/2 inch deflection when you press on it at the center point, midway between the pulleys. If the belt is too loose, it will slip on the pulleys, causing the machine to malfunction. If the belt is too tight, it will wear very quickly and will probably become so hot that it will start to smoke or smell.

Loose pulleys can also cause problems. Most pulleys are fastened to shafts with setscrews around the hub of the pulley. These screws must be tight or else the pulley or belt will slip. The resulting malfunction may seem to be caused by a faulty motor, but it can be corrected by tightening the pulleys and adjusting the belt. For this reason, always check the belts and pulleys before working on the motor.

Servicing the Motor

In most cases, motor malfunctions should be handled by a professional; do not try to fix the motor yourself. If the motor is a universal motor, however, you can change worn carbon brushes when sparking occurs, as detailed in the how to repair appliances article. To save the expense of a service call, remove the motor from the washer and take it to a professional service person, then reinstall the repaired or new motor yourself. To access the motor, remove the back panel of the washer. The motor is mounted on an adjustable bracket.There is one other motor problem you can repair yourself. Washer motors usually have an overload protector clipped to the motor. When this component fails, the motor won't work. Before you take the motor in for service, test the protector with a VOM set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect one electrical lead wire to the protector and clip one probe of the VOM to each protector terminal. The meter should read zero. If the needle jumps higher, the protector is faulty and should be replaced. Pry up the protector with a screwdriver and replace it with a new one made specifically for the motor or washer. Connect the new protector the same way the old one was connected.

If you let the tub fill, then put the pillows in, you may have caused the water level to overflow the outer tub somewhat. If you didn't smell smoke or hear any frying sounds, the motor is probably ok. Does the washer seem to operating normally?

Can't do anything about the one that's smoking. As with most electrical stuff, once you let the smoke out it no longer works.

Mine had the same original problem. Would fill, but would not agitate. It just sat there with a tub full of water and clothes.

I scoured the internet, and came to the conclusion that it was either:
The timer (unlikely, according to most posts I read), or
The motor. The motor in these is a reversing motor - one direction for spin, the other for agitate.
If half the motor quits working, you'd get spin but no agitate or vice-versa.

I took the motor out to take it and have it bench-tested to be sure before I spend the money on a non-returnable new motor. Unfortunately, no one here can (or will) bench-test the motor.

In the meantime, my wife called the retailer where we bought the machine and asked if they could test the motor. They said there was no need - that the control board in the machine probably just needed to be reset.

So far, I have taken off the front panel, taken off the control panel, removed the top of the machine, removed the ring on the top of the tub. Removed the agitator. Removed the four bungee-cord things that keep the machine from rolling over or something. Removed the bell thingy under the agitator. Removed the big nut under that to be able to remove the tub. Removed a plate on the top of the machine so that there is room to remove the tub. Removed the tub. Removed the big tub by lifting it to disconnect the shock absorbers, and disconnecting the drain hose and the air tube that controls the fill level. Tilted out and removed the big tub with the motor frame attached to the bottom. Removed the pulley, belt and motor frame. And removed the motor from the frame. All just to get the motor out to take it to the shop. Who would not test it.

But I digress.

The procedure to reset the control board is this:

1) Unplug the washer.
2) Wait 30 seconds or more. (This allows all capacitors to discharge and make the "computer" forget everything.)
3) Plug the machine in.
4) Open and close the lid 10 times. (The magnets in the lid are the only method you have to "talk" to the "computer.")
5) Run the machine.

It sounded stupid. It sounded like a Monty Python skit, but I did this. I reassembled the machine, and did the reset procedure. The machine worked just fine. Filled, agitated, drained, rinsed, did the spin cycle. Just like a wash machine should.

Makes me wonder about $300 repair bills.

4 springs on bottom of washer 3 from tub to top of base hidden, 1 from rear tub to bottom of base straight down, hole in inner lip of base, to counter weight of motor.

hi
you commented on hearing water in the machine after the wash , i know that f&p spin bowls have a liquid inside the actual spin bowl system i think it aids in the spin operation of the machine, but if you had something in the drain network then that will stop the machine from emptingout as it all works on a time basis check and see that you are not getting any leaks from the bottom of the machime as your new pump won't last long if it gets wet also if there is water leaking that can be the main seal on the motor shaft failing
cheers grant

sounds like perhaps the trannsmission has locked up and is not spinning freely, therfore the belt is meeting resistance and not turniing.( try turning the trans. pullley( where the bsck of belt is wound)does it turn freely??? try turning the tub from inside does it spin at all??? before i condemn the tranny i would check for article of clothing fallling between the tubs, holding from spinning, also ive seen (nails/screws/bra underwires,etc..) poke through onr of the holes with in the tub abd stuck to the outer tub also preventing the tub from spinning, look closely to all the inner basket holes!!!

may be incorrect belt or gear box locking up.

Haha Yes With the very limited info you have provided us I still think I can help You just in the future be more specific. This is a Amana or Speed Queen washer?? To replace the belt Remove hoses from pump, remove wiring connector from motor, dislodge 2 front tub springs from tub end. Remove 4 -- 1/2 head bolts holding motor/pump frame to washer frame. Remove motor/pump from washer turn upside down. 3 Torx bolts hold pump to motor. Belt must be routed through pump proper. REinstall pump.