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Ge Commercial Coin-Op Dryer.

I have a GE Commercial Dryer on my property that seemes to be a "BASTARD" child when it comes to parts and or repairs. I have tried replacing (BRAND NEW, FACTORY SPECS), Motor, thermostats, Thermal Limiter, Timers, and OHM'ed out all wires, everything is good. I can get the dryer to start, heat-up, then shut-off in approx 8 minutes. Once this happens, the dryer will no longer start until I dismantle it down to the motor and reassemble it according to wiring diagram. If there are ANY suggestions, please let me know, I am at my wits end. Model # DCB330EY0AC

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  • Robert Fawbush Mar 14, 2008

    The relay is good. I had the dryer running 4 cycles total last evening, Thursday March 13, 2008. After the fourth cycle completed, the next resident went to use it. As it accepted her coins, there was no response from the control panel other than a dim operation light. The light will brighten to full intensity ONLY if you HOLD the start button, but still no response from the motor. The motor I replaced is the FACTORY motor in the machine, relay is built in and was tested adequate by "COINMACH" laundry services Technicians. I did find a ground wire lose yesterday after a detailed wire harness trace. I secured the ground to the FACTORY placement on the rear of the control panel. Could it be a short in the start and temp switch causing it to malfunction. That is the ONLY thing besides the belt that has yet to be replaced. When it shuts off, there is still live juice running EVERYWHERE on closed circuts as per the diagram. This machine was purchased in May 2000 as far as my records show, and every new part I replace get's it closer to being a factory refurbished unit.

    Any other suggestions would be extr5emely helpful.


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When you replaced the motor, did you replace the relay? It sounds like you have done everything reasonable. I would try bypassing the coin operation part and see if that changes anything. Go back to the motor relay. It may be incorrect application. the part guys only know what the computer tells them. it may need a different one. I am assuming that when the unit shuts off you checked for power from the timer to the next place, according to the diagram.

Posted on Mar 13, 2008

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  • Rob Luna
    Rob Luna Mar 14, 2008

    You can have voltage at a place, a motor for example and it will not work. Because of ac current, if the neutral doesn't bring the power back to the panel, and ground ultimately, then you can have a problem like this. The light changing its brightness, does sound like the contacts in the switch is not working right. But you may have another problem. you are kind of on the right track looking at the ground wire. When no one is there try connecting the neutral or white wire on the motor to a ground somewhere, see if it comes on. It wont arc I promise. If you need to check, remove the breaker panel on the wall and look at the white wires and the grounds, they end up at the same place. This jumping isn't safe, obviously, with a water appliance and the public, but you can test a bad neutral this way and then repair it. When checking a motor or other type of machinery, test hot to neutral with your meter leads. Hot to ground will not always give the right reading.

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