Lately I have noticed that it takes my Gas Oven much longer than normal to preheat. Also, You can only keep 1 burner going at a time or the flames on each of the burners are almost nothing. This is a fairley new stove and am at a loss on what to do to fix. Any suggestions
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Open the bottom and have a look at the burner while its heating. The flame should be strong blue/white and both sides the same, if they are not you have some blocked holes in the burner. Remove the burner and clean out the holes (carefully, don\'t ream them out, use a small paperclip to clean them, be gentle.). Above all do NOT use any kind of oven cleaner on them, if they are aluminum, and most are the oven cleaner will destry it.
the ignitor should glow bright orange.it sounds like you have a weak ignitor but if the flame lites within 20 to 30 seconds it sounds like it's ok,it could be braking down though when it gets hot,it doesn't matter if it glows,it has to be putting out 3.2 amps,if you have an amp meter with a clamp on it you can read out the amps,if the broiler works ok i would change out the ignitor,then follow the tube down to the bottom and stick a paper clip in the orifice hole where the gas comes out and make sure that's clear,also there's a shutter on the tube to adjust the air flow,see if it's closed,it's usually almost wide open,check the tube to make sure the ignitor didn't burn a hole through it.i've found tubes with holes in them from a lazy ignitor,most of the time if there's a problem it will be the ignitor
This is what I would do: I would unplug the range and connect my test cord to your range cord. I use an ammeter along with my test cord to read the amp draw of the bake ignitor. If it cannot get above 3.5 amps I know the ignitor is bad or weak. Since the oven is working that means there is a good circuit. In order for the safety bi-metal to open the amp draw must reach 3.5 amps or better. So to me I am thinking bad ignitor. To get to it I remove the door oven racks and bottom, I then remove the flame spreader and unplug the quick connect to the ignitor. I remove the burner and ignitor and replace the ignitor on a work bench. I am too old to be bending over and trying to do any parts replacement inside an oven. LOL. I have a training film which shows how the silicone carbide ignitor works HERE. Post a model number and I may have a service manual, do not forget to rate the answer.
Hi. This sounds like a weak igniter, the symptoms usually are: burner won't light, or takes longer than normal to ignite the burner, may or may not smell gas in the oven, does not maintain set temperature or burner does not come on fully. On gas ovens, a glo igniter is like a light bulb, the more you cook, the faster it wears out. Bottom line, needs to be replaced. Good luck.
Hi, this sounds like a weak igniter, it would have to be a gas oven and the symptoms usually are: takes longer than normal to ignite the burner, may or may not smell gas in the oven, if it does light the burner, there may be delayed ignition (pop), does not maintain set temperature or burner does not come on fully, eventually won't heat at all. On gas ovens, a glo igniter is like a light bulb, the more you cook, the faster it wears out. Bottom line, needs to be replaced. Good luck.
This sounds like a weak igniter, it would have to be a gas oven and the symtoms usually are: takes longer than normal to ignite the burner, may or may not smell gas in the oven, does not maintain set temperature, eventually won't heat at all. On gas ovens, a glo igniter is like a light bulb, the more you cook, the faster it wears out. Bottom line, needs to be replaced. Good luck.
Replaced the igniter. The parts guy told me that the amperage changes with age and use; thus the igniter still glows, but it takes much longer to operate the gas valve with the reduced amperage. Cost - $70.14