Question about Stoves Premier 720GRa Gas Double Oven
Hi there, this has been an on going problem that has now got to a point i need to solve it. Currently neither the top or bottom oven will light and neither will the grill. This has only just happened but prior to this you could not have both ovens running at the same time as one would not light. If you had the bottom oven switched on and running then turned the top oven on the backlighting behind the numbers onb the second oven would be very dim as if the power was not enough for the second oven to run. If i switched the first oven off the second was fine. The same would happen if i lit the top oven first and then tried to light the bottom oven. I know that if i call the engineer out he will charge me a rediculous fee to just change the PCB (close to twoo hundred ppounds including parts and labour so i wouild first like to understand what the problem is and if possible either a way to repair the pcb which i think is the problem or conformation at least that it is the PCB. Many thanks in advance for a speedy reply as i can't cook anything right now lol. Steve
Hi everyone, i hope this helps.
you may need to take the oven out and use a vacuum cleaner to **** out the dust from the back of the oven, i found that this is the cause for ovens not lighting and grill not working, its a simple thing to do, just pull the oven out and at the back you will see where all th dust has accumulated, just vacuum it out
and it should work. i have had so many problems that i am going to replace the whole piece of **** now that the fans have packed up !
stoves know that the ovens are rubbish and unreliable, but have done nothing to help (even the engineers know this)
Posted on Nov 06, 2008
I know it's been a while but I had the same problem with my one of these. I initially suspected the 2u2 capacitor on the main PCB as it forms part of a transformerless power supply for the board and this has been the cause of so many of our household appliances failing but as it turned out, not in this case.
For some reason my attention was drawn to the pressure differential switch assy. I blew air into the port open to the inside of the cabinet and I could hear it click but instead of a short circuit, the switch terminals showed a resistance of around 400 ohms.
I decided to remove the micro switch from the diaphragm unit (means drilling off the ends of the rivets) and the switch itself then came apart easily. The contacts could then be easily cleaned with a 'scotch cloth' and provided the rivets aren't too badly damaged they can be reused to remount the switch when put back together.
For me this dropped the resistance from around 400 ohms to about 0.5 ohms which is only just above the datasheet spec of 300 milli-ohms.
Once the oven cabinet was rebuilt (necessary to operate the pressure switch) the oven then worked perfectly (so far and fingers crossed) which considering we can't find a replacement LPG double oven to fill the 900mm high cavity the old one sits in, is a bit of a god-send.
I did find a supplier on aliexpress.com who could supply the microswitch (part no V5610R-041) but only in quantities of 5 for US$100 which means it's probably better all round to replace the entire differential pressure diaphragm assy.
I hope this helps someone else and I apologize if this has been abit of a ramble
Posted on Apr 13, 2016
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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