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The control wires need to be connected to the power relay in the electrical box. The power relay is the switch that feeds hot 220vac to the cold side of the compressor and internals 220vac side.
Hope this helps. Kind of generic but should be obvious after you open the electricals cover. There is probably a wiring diagram on the inside cover.
A weak or dead battery pack its the main reason of a unresponsive/good health UPS, but never forget to test the electric cord, the fuse and the protective relay.first, this sounds too simple, but thats a common fault.
Battery pack must have at least 5 volts with half amp of current to power up the UPS internal relays, giving electric power to the main switch.
To rise the 12/24 DC volts to 115/120 AC volts, the UPS uses some electronic components (semiconductors) called MOSFETS , and sometimes, blown (browned) MOSFETS on the electric board are the most desastrous cause of a unresponsive (completely dead) or faulty UPS. (I remember that some time ago I see a TRIPP LITE SMART 1500LCD UPS with twelve blown MOSFETS, when happened, that kind of fault must be saw like a little volcano!).
If you know how to take all the safety electric measures, and how to use a portable voltmeter, you can test the voltage/amperage on the battery pack, the electric cord and the replaceable fuse (if has any). Basic and intermediate electronic knowledge is necessary to test MOSFETS and other electronic components on the circuit board.
Most UPS's have split power. One is for Surge protected which is probably the half still working. The other come from a switching device called a relay. The relay is on the circuit board inside. If the battery backup'd half is dead, then that relaying is not connecting the power source to the three outlets. It could be due to a defective control circuit or the relay is bad. If you dont know electronics, either buy a whole new unit, or send it in for a rebuild with a place that knows what they doing. The manufacturers approved service places charge a reasonable price, but wont tell you anything for DIYers. I found a place in western canada that services them and does correspond with tips...that worked. And the obvious warning, the insides of a UPS can kill you if you dont take proper precautions
Don, There are two ways in which I would have satisfyied the 6 foot guide line. 1. Mounted the VECTOR under the hood. 2. Supplied the VECTOR with additional "bed mounted" battery to be charged via the present wiring with a two pole single throw "knife switch" as as the "connect/disconnect to the vehicle battery/alternator for charging the new battery. In any case, you should make it a twice yearly thing to inspect the 15 feet of wire now installed, for wear and tear faults that could result in sparks, smoke, fire. You may need to visit local electrical supply house to see what they have to offer in the way of small "breaker-boxes" that may be capable of handling such large GAGE wire. I MEAN #2 gage wire IS very thick and expensive per foot!!!! A disconnect box similar to type found mounted to brick-work and next to and connecting a 1.5 to 2 ton central air unit might do the trick. But anyhow, if you are not going to use the VECTOR disconnect the POSITIVE lead at the battery and tape the connector with electrical tape to be safe. Let me know how it works out for you. lmistyrel@ aim.com 12fixlouie
Have you change the battery? Note: Matrix UPS need to be calibrate after changing batteries or reset the Smartcell communication board. to make sure that the UPS would detect that you already replace it with the new battery
This happened on mine and at first i had 4v at the harness going into the tank then it eventually went to 0v im prettysure thats why the pump burnt up but anyway after much head scrtaching i tied into the ground wire coming out of the tank and grounded it to the frame and the truck is running fine there vehicles are known for bad wire looms
Does the engine keep running once you start it with gas or starter fluid, or does it stumble for a bit and then die again?
It definitely sounds like there's no fuel getting through. Try disconnecting the fuel line with the engine off and routing it to a container, then try starting the car and see if any fuel is flowing.
If it is, there is likely a wiring problem to the injectors, which could indicate the injector fuse is blown. You could try jumpering the positive wire from the injectors directly to the battery and try to start the engine (obviously with the fuel line hooked back up!)- the negative is switched by the engine computer.
If there is no fuel flow at all, then check the fuel pump fuse. Again, you can try jumpering a wire from the battery to the positive fuel pump terminal and see if that starts the engine.
If there is very little fuel flow, it is likely a restriction in the lines or a defective pump. I would check the fuel filter, and perhaps blow out the fuel lines with compressed air. If that doesn't help, or if there isn't any restriction, then it comes down to a bad pump.