Question about Maytag SkyBox MBV1976A Beverage Dispenser
I just replaced my in-pieces starter relay and thermal swich with a Whirlpool 4387535 kit. My Skybox has been working fine ever since.
Note I had the same symptoms as other posts of the compressor turning on/off continuously (but no cooling)...I believe what was happening is that the starter relay would allow current to flow to initially start the compressor, but would never stop providing current to it after it had already started (as it should) thus in a few seconds the thermal switch would sense this and trip / remove power to the compressor...then this cycle would start all over once the thermal switch cooled down again and let power back to the compressor...
This kit is evidently the newer style of what is on the original Skybox compressors (functionally speaking)...the new starter relay looks and installs like the old one, but the thermal switch is different and you need to remove the old one (follow the black wire on the top post of the compressor back a little to a small black round thing with a flexible metal piece inside). The good news is that once you remove it, it already has the correct spade lug on the wire to plug directly into the new thermal switch which sits right on the top lug of the compressor above the starter relay.
Note I'm not a service tech, just a Skybox owner who was/is tired of Maytag disowning this product and calling it a "throwaway" when any part of it stops working (and all local authorized service centers laughing when asked to repair one).
Continuing on with my rant a little, I also see other posts on the internet which also state "throwaway" when you actually have a bad compressor because you can't get direct replacements anymore - my friend who does AC work on the side said he most certainly could put another compressor in there from probably just about any other mini-fridge...he just noted that it is a small place to do it so the replacement compressor form factor will have to be considered. He stated you may get a little more or less cooling efficieny but who cares if you really want to keep your machine working that you can't buy anymore (nor get a close alternative).
Posted on Jul 04, 2008
Well planing on putting this up on youtube...so others can see. Grayfox24 is going to give me some instructions. I purchased the ERP410, which has 5 wires. I assume that you take the relay and overload off all together...but I will post the link when I get this all figured out.
Posted on Aug 07, 2010
Hello -- We had a similar problem. After doing extensive research online, I can tell you that the problem is likely either with the compressor relay (possibly fixable by you) or with the compressor itself (not fixable and apparently not available anyway). If the compressor is shot, then you probably have to cut your losses and give up on your Skybox. Our service tech told me that the Skybox is considered a cheap novelty item and pretty much a "throwaway" once it breaks down. Sad, but true. We were able to negotiate a settlement with Whirlpool/Maytag, but it takes a lot of time and effort and there are no guarantees about anything if the machine is out of warranty. Look on this website for some possible repair tips but be prepared for the worst.
Posted on Feb 06, 2009
How do i find out where the wires go on the starter relay....i took it off and bought a new one but don't know how the wires go back on.....please help??
Posted on Dec 03, 2009
There is a stater relay unit that plugs into the compressor. It's white in color and has a "pig tail" capacitor.
The capacitor is what went on mine.
I took it to a local appliance repair shop and had it fixed for 45 bucks. It's back to working great again.
PS, Don't use the skybox outside, its meant for indoor use only.
High room or outdoor temperature will make the compressor overheat.
Posted on May 24, 2008
I just came from the Maytag repair shop because the cooling system stopped on my machine. The repair man laughed and said when he went to service school the class was told "if someone brings the Skybox in for repair, just look to make sure no wires are loose and if there aren't, then it is not repairable"!! He was laughing when he told me. So, I see Maytag discontinued them and used the excuse they were getting out of small appliances because they knew the phones calls were going to start for all the lemons they made and knew they were not fixable. I smell a class action suit!!!!!
Posted on Jun 25, 2008
Post your email i will send you the service manual there are too many things that can go worng you will have to search then via the manual
Posted on Mar 15, 2008
Your solution input has helped me tremendously. however I found an alternate component, since it was difficult getting ERP410. The alternate which worked perfectly, is part number RC0410, made by a company called SUPCO. It is also called a 3 N'1 START.
Posted on Dec 12, 2010
I recently purchase a broken Skybox with hopes of fixing it. I looked in the back and saw what looked to be a PTC overload device which is plugged right onto the compressor, and a bi-metallic thermal switch, but I don't see the starting capacitor or a relay. This is a BMV 1976AAB built in 2004. Where are these parts located? Will the before mentioned 4387535 kit work on this model?
Posted on May 09, 2018
Bought this skybox on craigslis for 50. Knew the vending didn't work which was okay cause the thing looked cool, unfortunately it did cool either. Went with the erp419. 8.99 from amazon plus 5 s
Posted on Sep 15, 2011
My neighbor was given a Skybox by his boss and planned to scrap it. I offered to take it off his hands.
When I opened it up, I found the overload was fried.
I ordered up the ERP410 which did not work. I later found krause28's youtube video and see his fix only lasted 5 weeks.
I went ahead and ordered the parts t-tek recommended and still no luck. I think my compressor is locked up.
When I turn it on, I get across the start cap and then after a couple minutes the overload kicks off. This cycle repeats and the overload has started to get hot.
I checked the cap and it appears good. I also wired in the cap part of the ERP and had the same results.
Looks like I am out $40, but it was worth a shot at getting the free unit going.
I've pulled the plug on it unless someone has additional suggestions.
Posted on Nov 19, 2010
Oct 28, 2010
Hi, I had the same problem where my skybox stopped cooling the drinks and would click off all the time, it has been approx 1 and 1/2 years since it last worked, however after reading the post from T-tek from 2 years ago, I purchased the parts he listed in his post and my skybox is like new again and up and running. It took about 20-30 minutes only. Thanks T-tek.
Posted on Oct 28, 2010
I had the same problem with my Skybox not cooling. After looking at the suggestions here I went with the ERP410 as well. Followed the video provided and I am back to Cool Beverages again. Thanks Skybox techies I couldn't have done it with out you.
Posted on Sep 22, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
HI, you will need to inspect the compressor to make sure it is cycling in intervals. if the compressor is not cycling, this will confirm compressor failure. The evaporator fan blows cold air into the freezer and from there it vents into the refrigerator. Occasionally the vents between the freezer and refrigerator can become clogged with ice, food or other debris. In most refrigerators the cold control for the refrigerator opens and closes these vents. That mechanism may become inoperative resulting in the vents becoming stuck open or closed.
Inspect the vents to determine what is preventing the free flow of air. An overcrowded refrigerator or freezer may be the cause. In other cases the vents may need to be cleaned or ice melted away. To remove a build up of ice, use a hair dryer set to "low". Using a higher setting may damage the freezer. CAUTION: Do not let melting ice drip onto the hair dryer. In some models, the vent is located under the temperature control console. The housing either snaps into place or is held in place with screws. Remove the screws, or gently depress the retaining clips with a small screwdriver. Allow the housing to hang by its wiring. A freezer vent control may also have to be removed to access the vent. In some freezer-on-top models, it may be necessary to remove the floor of the freezer to inspect for obstructions.
The condenser coils dissipate heat. If dust and debris accumulate around the coils, your refrigerator may not be able to cool properly, it may run continuously or it may stop completely as a result of an overheated compressor. You should clean rear-mounted coils once a year. Unplug the refrigerator before cleaning. Refrigerators are heavy, never tip one forward or backward. Never attempt to move a refrigerator without an assistant. Vacuum or brush the coils. If coils have a filmy build-up, use warm soapy water to clean them. Take care not to spill or drip water onto the components of the refrigerator.You should clean floor level coils at least twice a year. Unplug the refrigerator before cleaning. Vacuum or brush the coils. Remove the grill from the front of the refrigerator and use a vacuum with a wand attachment to remove any dust and debris. The grill should snap off and on. Pull firmly toward you and possibly upward to remove the grill. If it does not come off with a modest effort, check for screws or retaining clips that may hold it in place.
Another inspection point will be the door seals. This is a easy way for the cold air to escape from your unit as well. thsi will cause the temperature to rise. The seal should make smooth continuous contact with the refrigerator case. When the seal does not seal completely, warm air enters the appliance. This results in more frequently compressor operation and possibly the inability of the appliance to maintain proper temperature. To test the seal, use the dollar bill test. Place a a dollar bill or a piece of paper between the seal and the refrigerator and close the door. Now pull the paper out. You should feel tension as you pull. Retest along the entire door seal. Replace the seal if the test was unsuccessful.
Next will be the door switch. The interior light in most refrigerators, and the fan in some, is controlled by a door switch. When the door is closed, the switch is depressed and the interior light goes off and the fan resumes normal operation. If the door is misaligned or the switch malfunctions, the refrigerator may become warm as a result of the non-operation of the evaporator fan and the heat generated by the interior light. Test the switch for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should change from a reading of infinity to zero when the probes touch the terminals. With the probes still touching the terminals depress the switch, the reading should change back to infinity. If it does not pass both of these tests, the switch should be replaced.
Be sure to confirm evaporator fan function as well. if the fan is defective, it will prevent proper cooling as well.
This will conclude the most common issue with a under preforming unit. I would advise to check all the above and, if the unit continues to not cool after all the above adjustments are made, i will recommend replacing the cold control device and thermostat.
Posted on Aug 19, 2009
1) your box may be low on freon,
2) fault thermostat may cause unit run non stop,
causing evaporator to ice up and blocking air
3) Dirt condensor thus reducing operation efficiency.
Check the simplest problem first - make sure condensor
coil is clean. if not, use a vacuum cleaner to clean condensor.
For # 2 is more likely if the evaporator has a fan.
If it has, check to see if it runs; it is behind the back panel inside box.
While at that, see if evaporator coil iced up. If it is defrost using hot water and turn it on setting thermostat to normal temp. setting.
If it work fine and later develops same problem, replace thermostat.
If the above 2 solutions don't solve the problem, call a technician to check freon.
Posted on Oct 11, 2009
before replacing parts. unplug it and from back and under neath get all the dust out,best to blow air in there to remove dust than plug it back in and leave it on number 3 setting for 6 to 8 hours than if cold you can adjust the settings.
or part location is at www.maytage.com/skybox parts
Good Luck Im pretty sure you won't need to buy part's after air cleaning
Posted on Apr 08, 2010
Testimonial: "`will try it and let you know.....thank you very much,,,,,,"
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