No wipers, blows fuse immediately after insertion.

To test, disconnect positive from pump and try to spray. If it still blow the fuse then you have shorted circuit somewhere. If it doesn't blow the fuse then either pump is shorted or stuck and draws too much amperage.

You have a short to ground on the wiper circuit...

Put a globe in the place of the fuse and work your way through the circuit, the globe will be lit until you remove the short...

Your wiper motor is bad.

the fuses stops the fire,
the fuse blows for any shorted circuit.
sadly no fuse stated, so.. cant really help.
what we do........
we remove that fuse
and insert a ATC circuit breaker in its place (same rating or less a tad)
then we see it power up, bang, pops, repeats, over and over
then out comes the ammeter, after PULLING all load devices
on that feed,, (see why not stating fuse makes me helpless)
the ammeter finds them all.
cost of a $20 tool (DMM) or better my amp clamp (inductive clamp)

all that sounds too techie, , get it serviced.

fuses blow because of a short.. this means that your positive wire leading to one of the items protected by this fuse is grounded. Check each item and look for bare wires, bent connectors pushed against metal.. Grounds are sometimes very hard to find.. some times you will see the problem right away by looking for burnt wires or connectors.

Does the fuse blow when the wipers are off or when you turn the wipers on? A fuse blowing means either a short circuit or an overload. Lets say that your wiper transmission is new and working properly, then an overload is probably blowing the fuse which is caused by the circuit pulling to much current because something is not aligned correctly and moving freely when the wiper motor is turned on. Before you connect the arms to the transmission, move the arm assembly manually with your hand to make sure the wipers go across and back on the windshield. This will verify that the arm assembly is moving freely and not jamming. Then turn the wiper transmission without connecting the wiper arms and see if the transmission is working properly and not blowing the fuse. This will verify that your wiper transmission is not defective. Check the wiring going to the wiper transmission for any bare spots or nicks on the wire insulation. If you have a bare spot or nick that is touching metal, the fuse will blow (this is called a short circuit). If you find a bare spot or nick on the wire use electrician tape to insulate the bare spot or nick. Usually three wraps of electrician tape around the bare spotor nick will do the job. Oh, make sure to replace the fuse with the correct amp fuse. Your car dealer auto parts can provide the information (over the phone) on the correct amp size. You can purchase the fuse at any auto parts. FYI: Too small an amp on the fuse will blow when the wiper is turned on. Too large of a fuse will cause the wiring to burn if your wipers should stop shifting and jam. Good Luck. Hope this helps.

unplug the resister and try again

Not unless you are willing to risk electrical damage or a fire! A fuse is a protection device that is designed to blow if the amp load in a circuit exceeds the "safe" limit for that circuit. Fuses are built with a specific amp rating which is marked on the fuse. The wiring and design load of the circuit dictates the size of fuse that's required to protect the circuit. Circuits that draw a lot of power need fuses with high amp ratings (20 or 30 amps) while those that use minimal power require smaller fuses (5 to 15 amps).

When the current in a circuit exceeds the normal limit for whatever reason, the metal element in the fuse melts and opens the circuit stopping the flow of current. A short, for example, causes a runaway electrical current. If not stopped, wires can start to melt and things can catch on fire. So respect the amp ratings specified for fuses (which can usually be found in your vehicle owners manual, on the fuse block itself or a fuse block reference decal).

What happens if you install a fuse with the wrong amp rating? If you install a 20 amp fuse in a circuit designed for 10 amps, you're asking for trouble. A difference of 10 amps might not sound like much, but it may be enough to fry a sensitive electronic component or to overheat wires to the point where the insulation may start to melt.

WARNING: Under no circumstances should you ever bypass or eliminate a fuse. No electrical circuit should ever be operated without fuse protection. This is extremely dangerous, especially if you've had problems with a fuse blowing before.

If a fuse keeps blowing, it usually means something is amiss in the circuit. The wiring should be checked along with the components in the circuit to determine if there's a short or other problem.

The fuse for the windshield wiper circuit, for example, may blow if ice or debris builds up in the cowl areas and interferes with the movement of the wiper arms. If a fuse blows in a motor circuit (heater blower motor, cooling fan motor, power seat or window, electric fuel pump, etc.), it often indicates a shorted motor. If a fuse in a light circuit blows, look for wiring or connector shorts. Adding driving lights may also overtax the headlight circuit unless a separate circuit is provided for the driving lights. An A/C fuse will blow if the system is low on refrigerant and is working unusually hard, or if the compressor is hanging up. Stereo systems with high amp boosters should also have their own electrical circuit with fuse protection to avoid overloading the normal radio circuit.

first....be sure the fuse is the right ampage. second...if the ampage is correct, and it still blows, do the following. Disconnect the ground-side of your battery. Attached test lamp to ground-side of battery. Take probe end of test lamp and touch anypart of the motor body frame. If the test lamp (DOES NOT LIGHT UP), you have an electrical short. Recommend OBD (On-board Diagnostic) analysis test.

Sounds like you found your problem.