I connect the unit to my amplifiers (1 monoblock + 1 Two Ch.), sub sounds great, but the pre outs the left one no sound comes out of it both of them, left front and left rear, the right ones work fine, all of this happened all of a sudden 2 weeks ago....had my unit installed six months ago and was working fine, untill now.
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Re: No sound comes out of the left pre outs
It sounds like the preamp wire that carries the left channel signal between the HU and the 2ch amp has an issue. Here's two quick things to check.
Check that both ends of the left preamp cable between the deck and 2ch amp is not loose or disconnected.
Swap the left and right preamp connections at the amp. If the issue stays with the left channel, the issue is with the amp. If the issue moves to the right channel, the issue is with the preamp cable or the HU's preamp output.
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possibility #1: Your ignition switch may be aging and may need replacing. #2: You may have a secondary unit (amplifier etc) that is not powered up (burnt fuse, loose connection etc). #3 fade controls may be all to the back or all to the front etc. #4: or perhaps you blew your transistor in the player. It would be hard to diagnose from here.
:) the rca jacks have to be connected to an amplifier,, their signal is too lay to even light a bulb.. you have to connect it to a car amplifier and then from the amplifier to the speakers..
Just so you'd know,, once your deck plays and you hear music on your speakers through your normal speaker wires,, RCA jacks work..
Ok you have 4 jacks,, 2 subs and 2 front.. These should connect to a preamp,, which takes 4 inputs and allows you to equalize or adjust how the music should sound,, now from the pre-amp,, it runs to an amplifier,, thats powers the subs and another that powers the speakers.. Some amps have 4 inputs so you can use one amp for your subs mids and heights..
for example a basic music system is
1 cd player 1 pre amp 1 amplifier (4 inputs, 4 channel out)
you bridge 1+2 and connect this to 1 12" double coil sub woofer
the next 2 connect to 2 mid speakers example "rockford or ev 5 / 8 " and 2 tweeters for heights..
Thats a kicking tricked out basic car audio system,,,
make sure that you get dual 2 ohm subs. to get a 1 ohm load, wire each sub in a series. that means the positive from one coil, connected to the negative of the opposite coil. then the other two leads will be your active speaker wires. that will give you a 4 ohm load for each sub. once all 4 are wired like this, you simply take all of the positive wires that you have left, and combine them at the amp. do the same with all of the negative wires. that will give you 1 ohm. just be extra careful to make sure every sub is wired exactly the same, otherwise your sound quality will be greatly reduced. also, 2500 watts isnt as much power as these subs will take if wired together. it will still sound awesome, but I reccommend turning the level on your amp up just until you hear a bit of distortion, then back it off a hair. being slightly underpowered will cause you to have some distortion in your bass. playing distorted notes builds up alot of heat in the voice coils, and these subs are VERY sensitive to overheating.
You need to run the RCA cables from the head unit to the sub for the audio signal, and possibly a turn on wire (the blue one on the back of the head unit), unless the sub has an automatic power feature.
The sub also needs power and ground wires attached, but those do not connect to the head unit. Power should be run directly from the battery with an inline fuse, and ground should go to the nearest good ground point (Trunk latch, seat bolt, etc).
Check to be sure there are no speaker wires touching ground, and that the wires are connected in phase to the head unit.
5 1/4" Doors
Left Front (+)
Left Front (-)
Right Front (+)
Right Front (-)
6" x 9" Rear Deck
Left Rear (+)
Left Rear (-)
Right Rear (+)
Right Rear (-)
The symptoms you are relaying definately sound like an internal amplifier problem. It is fading in and out for a reason - usually due to heat.
Have you had the radio bench tested (seperate from the car) to eliminate the car as being the culprit?
Since the radio was run with damaged speakers originally, the output or amplifier power supply on the amplifier may be bad.
As an alternative to repairing, I would suggest investing in a small 2 channel amplifier to power the speakers.
The radios claim 50W per channel, but in reality give 12-15W RMS power.
A dedicated amplifier with built in crossovers and gain adjustments will prolong the life of your speakers and add to the tonal qualities of your new speakers. Instead of turning up the volume on the head Unit, and sending out a distorted signal that will blow your speakers, an amplifier will give more CLEAN power to them, so it will be louder at a lower volume setting.
This will bypass the internal amplifier on the radio, and send a Low Level signal ONLY thru a set of RCA cables.
go to standby hold m-log button tell menu comes on display press up on volume control tell amplifier comes on display pess left on volume control tell display says amp on. the built in amp on the stereo turns of and on to provide better sound quality to the pre-amp out puts
On it's own the subwoofer will not work, you need to buy a Monoblock amplifier, a wiring kit and a set of RCA leads to run it.
The RCA leads plug into the SUB output RCA sockets on the back of the headunit.
The OEM speakers in your car will not be of great quality, so it would be wise to change them. If you do, you need to buy speakers that have a rating of no less than 90watts, any thing less and they will sound distorted.
Any car audio shop will be able to help you select the right size and rating to suit your car. They may even fit it all for a charge.