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Re: Krups 243 blender clutch wheel
These little jewels are threaded onto the motor shaft so they tighten up when in operation. To remove, you will have to immobilize the motor shaft. See if you can insert an icepick or screwdriver into the blades of the motor fan on the bottom. Then using a punch and hammer, gently tap the clutch disk in the direction opposite from its normal rotation.
BE CAREFUL not to use so much force that you break either the clutch disk or the motor fan blade.
Thanks to the above information, i was able to fix it. I bored out the hole at the bottom so i could insert a small screwdriver. I then grabbed the rubber drive gear turning it counter clockwise white putting pressure on the motor flywheel with the screwdriver from the newly bored hole. It took some muscle but the gear spun off.
Yep, that worked -- on my Krups GMA1, I used a fat drill bit in the center hole on the bottom, off-axis slightly until it caught the motor. Then I used a pair of pliers to unscrew the drive gear. Funny, Krups sells the spare part but says nothing to the consumer about how to actually replace the part!
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That is a roll pin and you need a punch the size just smaller that that little pin. Then you can just tap it out with the punch and a hammer. Remove the drive and replace and tap the pin back into place to hold the rubber drive.
Take the blade assembly out of the jug, hold the blades with a towel and turn the driving clutch on the other end. Whichever way the motor turns those blades when operating, you need to turn the drive the opposite way to undo it. If the nut is seized up and wrecks the drive the parts list shows all parts as being available EXCEPT the white bearing housing AND the complete assembled blade and housing.
take a flat head screw drive to the bottom of the blender and us it to hold the blender shaft in place while you turn the gear by hand or with a plyers (it is reverse threaded) and it should spin right off. when you get the new on it should spin right on.
Hope you have solved your problem by now, but put a flathead screw driver in the bottom of the blender to hold the blender shaft in place then turn the gear by hand or with a plyers and it should just screw off, it is reverse threaded...
Like you, I am all for repairing and keeping the world free of blenders that only need one part replaced. The rubber coupling was easily ordered online, the challenge I later found was to remove it without losing my sanity. After messing up the side grill of the blender pretty good, I realized there is an opening on the motor casing that allows access to a "gear" that is firmly attached to the axle where our little friend will hopefully screw on and restore the contraption to a working state. In order for you to see (which I must warn you, it's not much of a view) through the grill you will need a flashlight or book light. Towards the top of the aforementioned gear (not the rubber part) there is a groove in which a flat screwdriver can easily fit immobilizing the axle and allowing you to easily unscrew it. Oh, but wait, I forgot this is the faulty part and it will spin without the slightest torque on the axle thus never loosening or getting it unscrewed. My solution to this problem was to surgically remove as much rubber as possible to allow me to attach my vise grip to the nut and finally put this thing out of its misery. Using the same procedure of inserting the screwdriver to immobilize the axle I was able to screw the new part and voila the blender is fixed!!!!
Repairing the blender: My guess: You worked the motor too hard on your last blending session and it overheated. That will cause a thermal fuse inside to cut off. The blender won't work again until you replace the fuse but otherwise it should be fine. The fuse looks like a white diode and it will be attached tightly to the motor with a nylon strap (so that it can pick up the heat of the motor). The leads to the fuse are shielded with heat resistant nylon wrap. You will need to remove the rubber drive gear in order to remove the plastic house so you can work, although if you are really handy you might be able to at least test the unit by only removing the plastic bottom on the base unit.
To remove the plastic housing, remove the little rubber feet and then remove all of the screws on the bottom of the unit. You may need to buy a bit set for tamper resistant screws (I ***hate*** those), I don't remember. When the bottom is removed, you will see that the there is a screw head on the bottom of the central motor shaft. You can use a screw driver here to hold the motor from turning, then you can carefully use a pliers to unscrew the rubber drive gear on the top of the base unit (try not to damage the rubber). With the gear removed you can get access to the wires.
To test the fuse unit, just check its continuity. Short=good, open=bad. To further test, short out the fuse with a jumper cable and your blender should work.
EPO (Electronics Parts Outlet) in Houston, TX, has the replacement fuse unit. I don't know that they like mail order.
You need the remove the old gray rubber knob. I did it in a barbaric way just hacking at it with scissors. Once you've removed all the rubber, you can use pliers to remove the remaining metal base. Once that's removed, place the new piece on the post and spin it on. Most important, spin clockwise to loosen, not counter clockwise like most items.
it's not easy. you will need a set of pliers, a flathead screwdriver, and a phillips screwdriver. first, remove the 4 rubber plugs from the bottom of the blender (just work them out with your fingers). second, use the phillips screwdriver to unscrew the 4 screws that were under the ruber plugs. the blender should come apart. right in the bottom center on the inside of the blender you should see a steel rod with a groove in it. this rod will run all the way to the top and be connected to the rubber gear drive on top. get a firm grip on the rubber gear drive with your pliers. place the flathead screwdriver into the groove of the steel rod and unscrew. it will be very tight, but eventually, it will give. you will most likely destroy the old rubber gear drive in the process, but the idea is to replace that one anyway. good luck!
The drive is replacable and available from Cuisinart, you will have to sign a waver to get the part. the drive is screwed onto the motor shaft with reverse threads. the plastic drive will have to be completely broken off of the unit to expose a brass"nut" which was internal to the drive. depending upon your model you may have to remove the lower half of the base unit to access the lower part of the motor shaft. there will be a slot in the end of the shaft for a large flat blade screwdriver. this is used to hold the shaft still while turning the drive "nut" with a vice grip pliar or similar. the new drive is just threaded onto the shaft and normal operation tightens it.