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I accidentally inverted the ground and 12v connection coming from the radio. i realized this a few minutes after trying to figure out why amp wasnt powering up. will it still work once i re-establish correct connections tomorrow? i disconnected the cables, taped them and left them to finish tomorrow.
Re: I accidentally inverted the ground and 12v connection...
This should still work if not then check fuses first. If no big spark happened when you turned it all on then you are definitely good to go. The only way to know for sure is try it out
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First check to see if your'e getting power to the amp by using a test light and touch the main power(12V battery) connector on the amp, test light should come on since it's constant 12v supply. Now turn on the radio and test the remote wire connector on the amp and you should have 12V(test light should come on). Also make sure that you have a good connection with your ground wire, check both connection points to make sure it's good. Now if you have power where your'e suppose to and when your'e suppose to and the amp does not power up, then it may be time for a new amp. Try wiggling the connections at the amp a bit, the solder may be cold/loose.
Fused 12 volt power wire from the battery connects to +12V at the amp. Chassis ground wire connects to gnd at the amp. Switched 12 volt power wire (accessory) (remote turn on from after market radio) connects to rmt at the amp.
red = 12v ignition/acc yellow= 12v battery/memory black = ground blue = power antenna blue/white = amp turn on black/white = amp ground orange = illumination orange/white = dimmer (+) orange/black = dimmer (-) brown = mute phone speakers--- grey = right front positive grey/black = right front negative white = left front positive white/black = left front negative violet = right rear positive violet/black = right rear negative white = left front positive white/black = left front negative green = left rear positive green/black = left rear negative
i need to know is the blue wire comming from the amplfier or comming from the radio?
if its comming from the amplfier then you need to connect this to the igintion wire (yellow) or if the radio has it connect it to the radio (it shoudl become 12V when radio turns on)
if its comming from the radio then you need to connect it to the remote jack in the amplfier the wire become 12V when the radio turns on and the amplfier only turn on when the remote connection on the amplifier becomes 12V
how are you my names josh so you want to do a factory hook up on that sub amp and sub. Well to start you well need somethings. 1. an amp kit which comes with all your wiring necessary to do what your wanting to do. In it should include a set of RCAs for sound. A ground wire with fitings which is to connect to your vehicles chasis which is anyplace in your vehicle not to far from the designated place that you choose to put your amp you can you usually ground off of solid metal but not over heavly painted areas unless you plan to do some sanding. Also a 12V constant which is going to connect strait to the positive side of your battery in the vehicle. This wire will come with about a 15 or 30 amp in line. This wire will be a thick wire Red in color. next you should have another wire which will be rather long and not quite as thick which is going to be used to tie into the vehicles radio/ignition source this will allow for the amp to power down or up when you turn your radio on or off. and last but not least you will need to purchase somthing that will convert you line level signal coming out of your radio to low end frequency transmitted through the RCA's for sound. You will only need one dont let anyone tell you need more than one its called a PAC converter or a line level converter. With that said your set to start the install. It important you do have a few other tools to help the job go smooth. A12v tester or meter if you dont have on you can pick one up virtually anywere. Cremping Tools and end to end connections for your wiring you are going to be doing at the back of the radio when tying your line converter into your factory radio. One not make sure that when you have puled your radio out make sure you sperate your wires your sound from you power wires and to isolate each you will use the 12v tester to find your radio/ignition wire and when you look for were to tie your sound in it will be your rear channels left and right. The line level converter once again is used to bring your high level frequency to a low level sorce then you will go out of the converter with your RCA's strait to the amp to give your amp the sound souce it will need to run the sub. Also some PAC converters have an adjutable gain inside them you want to adjust that gain not to high but high enough for your amp to recieve a good strong signal from the radio. The in finishing your 12v sorce will go into the 12v+ on the amp your Ground of coarse will go to the place marked ground on the amp and your little wire tied in with the vehicles radio/ignition sorce will go in the spot marked remote on the amp itself the rest is a piece of cake setting your gain on the amp. Low pass frequency setting and so forth. Once again my names Josh and good look with the job
you need to figure out where the wires go and to what type power they are connected. if you look in the back of the stereo where the wires are(the ones from the radio harness), these are the main ones(yellow=12v constant) this one keeps memory for your radio. This one shouldn't be used to connect to your amp. Find out if the amp had a dedicated power wire directly from the (+)battery to the +12v connection on the amp. The other is the remote wire(it's always blue in color from the radio harness). it goes on the remote connection on the amp, when the radio turns on, so does the amp and when radio is off the amp is off. The last is the ground(black)wire. Connect this one to the car chassis(any bolt on the car, i usually use the seat bolt. Now the rest of the wires are for sound. The rca's go from the "output" of the radio to the amp's "input". What's left is connecting the speakers, that's the easy part, just make sure you trace all your wires and if you have to pull the stereo out of the dashboard to verify the connections...do it. This will save ensure that the job is done not only right, but safely. get a probe light tester from autozone or any parts store to check your voltages before you connect the wires. Better safe than sorry. Seems like a lot but it's really not. good luck.
ok on most amps there are two sets of wire ports one for
speakers & one for +12v,grd & 12v remote start if you look over each port it will say what port is for what wire if it is in a connector it gets slightly more complecated what you do is with a vm check from wire to chassis ground [like seat bolts] 12v with key off when you cet power isolate wire then turn key on till radio comes on then do the same test for 12v isolate that will be remote start then turn key off &check from the first wire to other wire for ground to find speaker wires connect a regular peace of wire to chassis grd & touch the wires you will here the speaker pop be sure not to hold the wire on long cause it will blow the speaker
There are a few common reasons the fuse keeps blowing:
1. The transmitter final transistor is bad, it usually is directly connected to the 12v source and not switched by the power switch. 2. The power wires were accidentally reversed I.E. positive to ground, neg to 12v. There is a protection diode on the circuit board that did its job and is now shorted. it will keep blowing fuses until its replaced.
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