Question about Kodak EasyShare C653 Digital Camera

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Cracked screen - c653

How to replace the screen? Do the two connector strips unsnap or are they soldered to the circuit board?

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  • Zimbronski Mar 21, 2008

    Don't have one yet - but somebody commented that one could be had from Kodak for about $50. Figured I'd wait till I got the original all the way out before buying a replacement.

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Kodak--(800) 431-7278 ext 3 tell them you want a new LCD screen for your model. It is about $46.00

Posted on May 29, 2008

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I've the same problem and was able to remove the screen easily: The connector strips can be unsnapped by pulling ahead the little black parts on the left and right.
But where did you get a replacement for the cracked screen?

Posted on Mar 16, 2008

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Model d52w20. The F connector on the rear panel is broken. How can I replace it?


The F connector probably is soldered to a circuit board inside your TV. You would have to disassemble the TV to get access to the board to unsolder the broken connector, remove it, and solder the replacement connector on the board.

Mar 30, 2016 | RCA Televison & Video

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Fussable link removal


To repair any blown fuse link use the following procedure:








  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.


  2. Cut the damaged fuse link from the wiring harness and discard it. If the fuse link is one of three circuits fed by a single feed wire, cut it out of the harness at each splice end and discard it.


  3. Identify and procure the proper fuse link with butt connectors for attaching the fuse link to the harness.


  4. To repair any fuse link in a 3-link group with one feed:


    1. After cutting the open link out of the harness, cut each of the remaining undamaged fuse links close to the feed wire weld.


    2. Strip approximately 1 / 2 in. (13mm) of insulation from the detached ends of the two good fuse links, Then insert two wire ends into one end of a butt connector and carefully push one stripped end of the replacement fuse link into the same end of the butt connector and crimp all three firmly together.





Care must be taken when fitting the three fuse links into the butt connector as the internal diameter is a snug fit for three wires. Make sure to use a proper crimping tool. Pliers, side cutter, etc. will not apply the proper crimp to retain the wires and withstand a pull test.





    1. After crimping the butt connector to the three fuse links, cut the weld portion from the feed wire and strip approximately 1 / 2 in. (13mm) of insulation from the cut end. Insert the stripped end into the open end of the butt connector and crimp very firmly.


    2. To attach the remaining end of the replacement fuse link, strip approximately 1 / 2 in. (13mm) of insulation from the wire end of the circuit from which the blown fuse link was removed, and firmly crimp a butt connector or equivalent to the stripped wire. Then, insert the end of the replacement link into the other end of the butt connector and crimp firmly.


    3. Using rosin core solder with a consistency of 60 percent tin and 40 percent lead, solder the connectors and the wires at the repairs then insulate with electrical tape or heat shrink tubing.




Heat shrink tubing must be slipped over the wire before crimping and soldering the connection.



  1. To replace any fuse link on a single circuit in a harness, cut out the damaged portion, strip approximately 1 / 2 in. (13mm) of insulation from the two wire ends and attach the appropriate replacement fuse link to the stripped wire ends with two proper size butt connectors. Solder the connectors and wires, then insulate.


  2. To repair any fuse link which has an eyelet terminal on one end such as the charging circuit, cut off the open fuse link behind the weld, strip approximately 1 / 2 in. (13mm) of insulation from the cut end and attach the appropriate new eyelet fuse link to the cut stripped wire with an appropriate size butt connector. Solder the connectors and wires at the repair, then insulate.


  3. Connect the negative battery cable to the battery and test the system for proper operation.



Do not mistake a resistor wire for a fuse link. The resistor wire is generally longer and has print stating, "Resistor-don\'t cut or splice\'\'.

When attaching a single No. 16, 17, 18 or 20 gauge fuse link to a heavy gauge wire, always double the stripped wire end of the fuse link before inserting and crimping it into the butt connector for positive wire retention.

May 04, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

When i switch on my Korg PA800, the screen just show's blank. The screen light gets on but just blank blue. What could be the problem?


Hi, Provided your Korg works as normal, besides the display being blank and lit, I may have the answer. It sounds like the contacts connecting the display have somehow become dirty. This could have happened from something getting spilled on the display. To fix is easy enough if you have a little mechanical aptitude. unplug unit/take batteries out,and disassemble unit to gain access to the main circuit board where screen is located, the screen may be held in place with a tin casing either soldered to board or with prong set though the circuit board and twised on the reverse side to hold in place. After removing this there should be a little rubber strip between the screen and circuit board-this is the contact strip that you need to clean with rubbing alcohol. Clean the screen where the contact strip meets the screen. do the same on the circuit board, reassemble and you should be back in business. I hope this was useful, thanks for asking FixYa, and good luck, Prodzilla.

Apr 22, 2011 | Korg Pa800 Synthesizer

1 Answer

I am looking for a diagram with labeling for a ''under the hood'' fuse box on a 1995 F250 7.3 Diesel . I've a electical leak that I've tracked to this fuse box and two specific fuses, but don't know what...


Two circuits are protected by circuit breakers located in the fuse panel: the power windows (20 amp) or power windows and Shift-On-The-Fly (30 amp) and the power door locks (30 amp). The breakers are self-resetting.
The fuse link is a short length of special, Hypalon (high temperature) insulated wire, integral with the engine compartment wiring harness and should not be confused with standard wire. It is several wire gauges smaller than the circuit which it protects. Under no circumstances should a fuse link replacement repair be made using a length of standard wire cut from bulk stock or from another wiring harness.
To repair any blown fuse link use the following procedure:
  1. Determine which circuit is damaged, its location and the cause of the open fuse link. If the damaged fuse link is one of three fed by a common No. 10 or 12 gauge feed wire, determine the specific affected circuit.
  2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  3. Cut the damaged fuse link from the wiring harness and discard it. If the fuse link is one of 3 circuits fed by a single feed wire, cut it out of the harness at each splice end and discard it.
  4. Identify and procure the proper fuse link and **** connectors for attaching the fuse link to the harness.
  5. To repair any fuse link in a 3-link group with one feed:
    1. After cutting the open link out of the harness, cut each of the remaining undamaged fuse links close to the feed wire weld.
    2. Strip approximately 1/2 in. (13mm) of insulation from the detached ends of the 2 good fuse links. Then insert 2 wire ends into one end of a **** connector and carefully push one stripped end of the replacement fuse link into the same end of the **** connector and crimp all three firmly together.
      Care must be taken when fitting the 3 fuse links into the **** connector as the internal diameter is a snug it for 3 wires. Make sure to use a proper crimping tool. Pliers, side cutters, etc. will not apply the proper crimp to retain the wires and withstand a pull test.
    3. After crimping the **** connector to the 3 fuse links, cut the weld portion from the feed wire and strip approximately 1/2 in. (13mm) of insulation from the cut end. Insert the stripped end into the open end of the **** connector and crimp very firmly.
    4. To attach the remaining end of the replacement fuse link, strip approximately 1/2 in. (13mm) of insulation from the wire end of the circuit from which the blown fuse link was removed, and firmly crimp a **** connector or equivalent to the stripped wire. Then, insert the end of the replacement link into the other end of the **** connector and crimp firmly.
    5. Using rosin core solder with a consistency of 60 percent tin and 40 percent lead, solder the connectors and the wires at the repairs and insulate with electrical tape.
  6. To replace any fuse link on a single circuit in a harness, cut out the damaged portion, strip approximately 1/2 in. (13mm) of insulation from the 2 wire ends and attach the appropriate replacement fuse link to the stripped wire ends with 2 proper size **** connectors. Solder the connectors and wires and insulate the tape.
  7. To repair any fuse link which has an eyelet terminal on one end such as the charging circuit, cut off the open fuse link behind the weld, strip approximately 1/2 in. (13mm) of insulation from the cut end and attach the appropriate new eyelet fuse link to the cut stripped wire with an appropriate size **** connector. Solder the connectors and wires at the repair and insulate with tape.
  8. Connect the negative battery cable to the battery and test the system for proper operation.
Do not mistake a resistor wire for a fuse link. The resistor wire is generally longer and has print stating, "Resistor: don't cut or splice



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1 Answer

My JVC UX-GP5 docking station no longer charges the ipod and also I have intermittnet connectivity issues


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On the circuit board there are two connections that go from the terminal strip to the electrolytic plates. The leads on the terminal strip are quite large and it appears when they originally soldered the terminal strip to the circuit board they did not apply enough heat. Over time the solder connection deteriorated and the connection became very resistive and generated enough heat at the solder joint that it finally failed. I cleaned the terminal strip lead and the corresponding pad on the circuit board and re-soldered the connection. While I was at it I went ahead and re-soldered all of the terminal strip leads.

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2 Answers

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actually you dont need the tuner you just need the rf connector itself which you can easly pick up at a radio shack for a few bucks. you can DIY it will take a bit of soldering and time. First take the broken connector to radio and look for a close match, longer leads better you can always cut to fit.
remove board from tv and un solder the tuner. if solder does not seam to melt apply some fresh solder and then unsolder. pop the tuner lid of carefully both top and bottom to gain access to the circuit. cearfully remove any remains of the old connector. Now find the hole where the last part was and insert new RF connector adjust and cut the lead if nessary and resolder to circuit. place both caps back on and resolder tuner to board.connect board to ther circuit and test.

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1 Answer

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You will need to replace or have the convergence IC's replaced. They are soldered into the printed circuit board. You will need to know how to solder also un-solder on solid state printed circuit boards. If you do not know this, play it safe and call in a pro to assist you in this repair. Good luck

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