Question about GE GSH25KGRWW Side by Side Refrigerator

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Relay and overload on the compressor

How do i troubleshoot the relay and the overload on the compressor?

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  • dement Mar 12, 2008

    It ended up being the mother board. I had read a similar problem and it said to jumper line voltage to compressor. The solution that you gave me topped it off and I was able to fix the problem! Thanks again for your help! I will be looking to your site again help!

  • Anonymous Mar 12, 2014

    compressor overload relay is ok

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  • Contributor
  • 58 Answers

The relay will be burnt up inside, shake it and little pieces will come out if its burnt out. the overload usually is never the problem

Posted on Mar 12, 2008

6 Suggested Answers

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: small refrigerator compressor overload relay cuts out

I am told if you measure two terminals and note the two with the highest resistance. Then measure each of the two terminals with the highest resistance to the common terminal they the two additional readings should read the same as the two terminals with the highest resistance when adding them together. If after adding the two there is more than 1/2 ohm difference one of the windings is shorted.

Posted on May 06, 2009

tborn6
  • 700 Answers

SOURCE: installing an after market overload relay

if your taaalkking about a three in one the instructions are on the relay. to determine where the wires go on the compressor google the model number or the maker of the compressor then find the correct connections to make on the compressor also make sure that the replacement relay is iin the correct position.

Posted on Feb 06, 2009

jgwhomeequip
  • 1902 Answers

SOURCE: starter overload switch

Relay is bad just replace it it is a safety to keep the compressor ok in the event of power surges or failures

Posted on Jun 02, 2009

localwonder
  • 6784 Answers

SOURCE: kenmore refrigatorstart/relay/overload switch has burned spot on

HI. i would recommend to check the relay first, then the compressor last to confirm total failure. If both devices test out ok, this will lead to a failed main power control board.

THE RELAY

The compressor relay starts the compressor. A fault relay can result in the compressor failing to cycle on. The relay is accessed from the lower rear of the refrigerator. The compressor relay can be accessed by removing the terminal cover box. The cover is held on by tension or with a retaining clip. On some units. the relay may not be covered at all.(each model may vary). Beneath the terminal cover(if equipped), you will find the compressor relay, and the overload protector as well. The electrical terminals of the compressor motor are located here also. Remove the compressor relay by pulling it straight off from the compressor, gently. Pull the wire off of the side terminal of the relay. It is connected with a slip on connector. Firmly pull the connector, do not pull on the wire. You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers. Inspect the connector and terminal for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced. There are two types of relays you may encounter, wire coil and solid state. If the relay has an exposed wound wire coil it can be tested for continuity. Otherwise, the relay is of solid state design and requires specialized equipment for testing. Test the relay with a ohm(multimeter), for continuity. Set the meter to the ohms setting X1. With the relay upside down, place the probes into the terminals labeled "S" and "M"(the labeling may vary on each model). The meter should display a reading of zero ohms, indicating continuity (or if using a continuity tester, it should light up). With the probes still in place, turn the relay over. You should hear the click of the magnetic switch engaging. The meter should now display an ohm reading of infinity (or the tester should not light up). Turn the relay upside down again, place the probe on the "S" terminal and place it on the side terminal labeled "L". The meter should now display a reading of zero ohms (continuity). Turn the relay over and the reading should change to infinity. With the relay upside down place one probe on the "L" terminal and the other probe on terminal labeled "M". The meter should display a reading of zero ohms. Turn the relay over and the reading will stay the same, zero ohms. Now, if the relay fails these described tests, it should be replaced asap.

COMPRESSOR TEST PROCEDURE

The compressor is accessed from the lower rear of the refrigerator. Generally the same proximity of the relay. The compressor motor can be accessed by removing the terminal cover box. The cover is held on by tension or with a retaining clip. The main testing points will be the actual terminal post that hold the relay, gently pull the relay of the terminal box on the side of the compressor, and use the relay holding probes for testing. Once the relay is removed, Place one probe on any terminal and then touch the other probe to each of the other two terminals. The multimeter should display a reading of zero ohms. Be sure to set your meter to 1X before beginning. Now move the first probe to a different terminal and test the other two terminals with the other probe. Finally, move the first probe to the last terminal and test each of the other terminals with the other probe. Every test should have continuity with the multimeter displaying zero ohms. If the compressor motor does not pass all of these tests, the compressor will require professional service. Now test the compressor for ground. With the multimeter still set to X1, touch one probe to bare metal on the compressor housing (it may be necessary to scratch away a little paint to expose the metal). Touch the other probe to each of the three terminals in turn. None of the terminals should have continuity; the multimeter should display a reading of infinity. If any of the grounding tests show continuity, the compressor will require professional service.

Posted on Jan 10, 2010

  • 2468 Answers

SOURCE: compressor kicks off on overload/relay. Even after

are you sure the condenser fan is running correctly to move air over the condenser and is the condenser free of dust and dirt so it can cool properly from air movement from the fan

Posted on Mar 23, 2010

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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1 Answer

Unplug the compressor light and fan worked has the compression got a fuse


Check the start and overload relay if the compressor isn't doing anything that's the first thing I'd try. Usually the overload goes out. Is the white one plugged in over the start relay. Take them both off and shake them. If they rattle replace both. If only one rattles replace the one only. When it's the compressor there isn't much else you can do if the relay and overload aren't bad you can try a 3 in 1 starter but I wouldn't keep using it. Use it to get the compressor running again then reinstall the relay and overload.

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Two causes for that situation. The compressor has a start relay and a overload mounted on the 3 prongs. When the relay/overload is bad, compressor will kick on, hum, then a click sound. The click is the overload. Or, the compressor is drawing too much power and the compressor is bad. 90% of time it's the relay/overload but you need to check and make sure fan is running by compressor and coils underneath are not clogged up. Poor air flow around compressor can cause overload to go bad.

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After moving our fridge, it will not cool. Fan is turning but compressor does not seem to be running.


Hi,

You need to check the overload relay, there is a plastic box on the side of the compressor with several wiring going into it. The overload relay fails often causing the compressor to try to restart every 3-5 minutes. If you remove this box on the side of the compressor and shake it, if it will rattle it's bad and needs to be replaced. Otherwise you just have a bad compressor, but most of the time it's the overload relay.

If after replacing the overload relay and you still have the same issue, that means your compressor itself will need to be ordered and replaced.

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Hi,

It could be the problem with the compressor itself that's why the OLP(overload protector) kicks on after a few second because it sensed high current flowing to its line. You have to check the resistance of the compressor. It has 3 terminal, check the 3 resistance reading using the multimeter to confirm if the compressor is already faulty. It must be more than 2 ohms per reading...

Jdvillanueva

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May 22, 2010 | Whirlpool 19.6 cu. ft. Upright Freezer...

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My kelvinator upright freezer stopped freezing and it just kicks on and kicks right back of what could be wrong with it?


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1 Answer

I'm getting a wierd sound coming from my JBL2088HES refrigerator. It is a buzz like an electric shaver followed by a click. It seems to happen in 3 min intervals. Any Idea what it could be?


Kevin,

It sounds like it could be the compressor overload relay or the compressor itself. Lets hope that it is the overload relay, most compressor replacements are very expensive.

The overload/relay isn't very expensive and replacing it will be cheaper than calling a repair tech to tell you if it is the compressor or the overload/relay.

This is a relatively simple repair, if you look at your compressor you will find two wires connected to a small box ( overload/relay )
To remove the overload first you must remove the metal retainer by unhooking it with a pair of needle nose pliers.
Now remove the overload relay by pulling it away from the compressor.

The relay for your refrigerator has a capacitor connected to it, the capacitor and the relay are sold as one piece part # 67005560.

all that you have to do is remove the old relay with the capacitor from the wires by pulling the plug off and connecting the new overload/relay/capacitor to it, reinstall the relay to the compressor and you are done.

Good Luck
Check us out at www.centuryappliancerepair.com

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1 Answer

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This is the overload/relay assembly. Although a burned up overload can sometimes indicated a defective compressor, in most cases you can fix the problem by replaceing the overload/relay.

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