I just plumbed a new machine and fitted an integrated door. The machine has very little clearance at the top but the worktop height is standard. The people using the machine say that it did 2 washes without problem but on the third it jumped and moved a lot. Have I erred or is it for some other reason? The machine is on a tiled floor, on concrete and is level.
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Listen to hear if dishes are rattling against each other. Cups should be loaded only in the top and care to keep each cup separated from other. Chipping usually will occur when dishes are close together and in contact. The racks are rubberized and would be very unlikely the source.
If the feet are adjusted so the machine will not rock it would be unlikely that the top on or off would have any effect.
The upper shelf is adjustable up or down. Suggest locating upper shelf to the up position.
i would not recommend stacking one machine directly on top of another. there are various issues with weight, and movement due to vibration. what you can do is built a solid "workbench" that you can fit one machine under, and then put the other machine on top of the "bench" personally i would overbuild the bench, using 2" by 1" wood for the frame, braced and bolted to the wall for stability, and use a 1"thick worktop forv the top of the unit. on the top surface, i would also put a 3/8" wooden beading strip about 1/2" fron the outside edges of the worktop to stop the machine moving with vibration and falling off. i have done this a number of times when space is limited, although i find it much easier to put tehr dryer on the top as it is the lightest of the 2 units.
this is general instruction for door boots - allo much the same
undo clamp that holds boot to cabinet and peel away clear of the cabinet.
take worktop off.
locate clamp that holds boot to tub. undo clamp (usually like a giant wire jubillee clip) and boot can be pulled off tub.
lubricate slot in boot that goes onto tub with washing up fluid
starting at top, push slot in boot onto lip of tub. working in both directions, continue forcing slot onto lip. this is a knack and it may take a few attempts.
when full fitted, refit clamp and tighten
refit door boot to cabinet (this is easy) and refit outer clamp.
test for leaks on rinse cycle as water level is higher. water will be foamy from washing up fluid till washed away.
turn off at mains
undo clamp that holds seal to cabinet and peel seal away from cabinet.
take worktop off
undo clamp that holds seal to tub and seal will then come away
on new seal, lubricate the slot in the seal that goes onto lip of tub with washing up fluid
starting at top, insert slot in seal onto lip of tub and work you way round in both directions till seal is entirely on tub.
fit seal to cabinet (this is easy) and refit outer clamp.
test on rinse cycle as water level is higher. water will foam till washing up fluid is washed away
turn off at mains
remove clamp that holds door seal to cabinet. peel door seal off cabinet.
undo clamp that holds seal to tub. pull seal away from tub.
lubricate slot in seal that goes on tub rim with washing up fluid
starting at top, fit groove in seal onto rim and work your way round in both directions pushing seal on to tub rim - requires patience and you amy not suceed first time round.
refit inner clamp
fit seal rond cabinet -0 this part is easy
refit outer clamp.
test for leaks on rinse as the water level is higher