Why is one contact of a 12V DC circuit breaker made of copper?

The dc rating of switch or relay contacts is always lower than ac due to dc current, especially with an inductive load, arcing more and longer when the circuit breaks.

On some circuits a reverse diode can be fitted across the contacts to reduce arcing and on ac a small value capacitor can have a similar effect.

Most switches and breakers have ratings for ac and dc and are suitable within those ratings. Switches that are primarily designed for dc inductive loads generally have a rapid spring assisted make and break.

I think the answer to your question is yes.

Your trailer has two electrical systems, 12v and 120v. The 12v system has a battery and perhaps a converter/charger to power it. The 120v system must he hooked up to 'shore power.' Both systems have their own protection. The 12v system has a fuse panel, check for power at each fuse. 12v wall switches are often smaller and don't look like typical 120v switches like in a house.

The 120v system has a breaker box and circuit breakers. Reset each breaker by turning off then on again. In addition, the 120v outlets might have a GCFI outlet near a sink. It often is wired first in a breaker circuit, thus giving GCFI protection to other outlets in the circuit. Test the GCFI and make sure it clicks off and can be reset.

Barry,

The 12v system does not go through the AVR. It most likely is the Battery Charging Rectifier has failed. This controls the voltage from the 12v feed from the alternator and charges the battery.

1) Follow the wiring from the 12v socket/connectors until you come to a Block rectifier. It will be held on by a bolt in the center and have 4 wires connected to it. If you look at the pins you will see one is seated at a different angle to the others. Test the feed to this pin, you should get a result of between 12 Volts DC to 16 Volt DC.
If you are not getting these results then the Block rectifier has blown and will need replacing. http://www.generatorguru.com/rectifier-98406168/

2) If all is testing fine above, then you will need to test the Battery Charging Rectifier as you have an Electric Start and Battery on your unit. This is a metal block located on the back of the engine, next to the starter motor and it has fins running across it. ( to see an example of this part look up your generator on this page http://www.generatorguru.com/all-power/) Again this should be giving you between 12 Volts DC to 16 Volt DC.

3) Next,check the voltage going into the Battery Charging Rectifier from the alternator. You should get between 12 Volts DC to 16 Volt DC.

For replacement parts please see our web page. You will need the full model number to do this.:

http://www.generatorguru.com/all-power

Hi Bobbi
A 50w Headlamp will draw 4 Amps (Ohms Law 50/12=4.1)
So... 2 Low beams will draw 8 Amps.
Obviously more for high beam and high wattage Quartz Bulbs.
That is a lot for a small switch (contacts) to handle.
This is why a lot of vehicles use a Relay to power the Headlamps.
The relay is connected directly from the Battery to the Headlamps.
The large internal contacts can handle the higher current (30A) and the dash headlight switch connects to the magnetic coil inside the relay and is only used to pull the contacts closed.
Does your circuit include a relay.? Do you hear a relay click?
simple headlight relay wiring

To assist with your troubleshooting, try disconnecting one head lamp bulb to reduce current load. Does the fuse blow?
A temporary12v circuit breaker could be substituted for the fuse until you determine the problem.


If the circuit is using a relay then there will be a fat wire going from the battery to the Relay. The fine wire on the relay input is the trigger. A 12v test lamp is really useful for troubleshooting around the car. Also a cheap multimeter. Clamp style current meter is also handy to see exactly what current is blowing the fuse

Relays

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NARVA-CIRCUIT-BREAKER-REPLACES-STANDARD-BLADE-FUSE-BATTERY-15A-AMP-12V-55715-/321234642731?hash=item4acb13a72b
There is a 10A circuit breaker also like above

Automotive Circuit Breakers Wiring Products

start by making sure all bulbs are good for all lights if one is shorted that can cause your problem, the other are any of the bulb sockets corroded or green,chaffed wires,could water be a problem ?

If you have (90) 50w lamps = 4500 watts total. Assuming a 120/240 panel, if you put 1/2 on one "side" of the panel and the other 1/2 on the other "side" of the panel, that would be 2250 watts on each half. The generator should be rated *at least* 125% of the load; 4500w x 1.25 = 5625W. Using a 4500W generator on this load will cause it to overheat and shorten its life as it is running at 100% of capacity all the time..

One half of the panel is 120V to neutral, and the other is 120V to neutral - or 240V between both circuit breaker terminals. Ohms law for DC circuits and purely resistive AC circuits says Volts x Amps = Watts; or Watts / Volts = Amps. So, 2250W / 120V = 18.75A on each pole of a 2 pole circuit breaker that feeds the sub panel. A #12 copper wire is rated for 20 amps; but as per National Electrical Code - must be de-rated to 80% of rating which means it is good up to 16 amps maximum. A #10 copper wire is rated for 30 amps, but it too must be derated to 80%, making it good for 24 amps maximum. So, if you are going to feed a sub panel supplying (90) 50watt lamps, you will need to run a #10/3 copper cable from a two pole 30 amp circuit breaker at the generator to a 120/240 volt "main lug only" sub panel rated for at least 30 amps.

Divide your load evenly across the sub panel - (4) 15 amps circuits via (2) two pole 15 amp circuit breakers on each "side" of the panel if you run (2) 14/3 cables out to the lights - or (4) single pole 15 amp circuit breakers if you run (4) 14/2 cables out to the lights. No circuit breaker terminal should have more than 23 lamps that means you have (2) w/ 22 lamps and (2) with 23 lamps. The circuit w/ 23 lamps will draw 23 lamps x 50w = 1150W. 1150W / 120V = 9.6A. The 22 lamp load will be 22 x 50w = 1100W. 110W / 120V = 9.2A. Which is well within the 12A maximum allowed (after derating as required by code) by a #14 copper wire rated for 15A.

Good luck!

White wire with bare copper wire around it is for video. Center wire is positive, copper bare wire is ground. Red is +12v dc, Black is -12v dc, Green is audio +, while yellow is audio -.

12V DC

Wow, all due respect, but someone would really be negligent to offer you a solution to this problem. An electrical panel isn't something to mess with, especially if you're asking these type of questions. Contact a professional electrician in your area or run the risk of electrocuting (that's DEAD by electricity) yourself. Good luck, and please be safe.

you really need a service guy sorry