I have had the same problem now for close to 8 months. It satarted with dryer only drying 1 out of every 3 loads ( drying intermittently). We had a appliance repairman sent over by GE and he could not find a problem. @ days later we had him back out as the problem had returned. He replaced the thermostat. We then moved to Canada and the dryer was then serviced by a technician here. He charged us $277 for labor and 443 to replace the circuit board. Dryer worked great for 2 - 3 weeks and we are back to the same problem. Found that when the dryer was changed from a 3 wire power configuration to a 4 wire it was wired incorrectly. I resolved that issue and then tested the dryer. It worked awesome the exhaust motor was blowing very warm air out the rear of the unit and dried the load like a charm. Then for the second load it stopped blowing exhaust. I have called yet another repair man and learned that Canadian techs have not been trained on this dryer and that since mine is a US model it has no Canadian stamp on it and he cannot work on it. So now I am going to fix it myself. Everything apparently works, but there is a intermittently problem somwhere in the exhaust motor / fan area. I am just not sure where to start looking. Also the dryer heats just fine inside the drum. Could someone give me a clue as to where to start looking. I am a 13year US Navy advanced electronics tech so I understand how to use vlot / ohm meters and most testing equipment. Thanks.
4 days later and I still donothave a dryer. this seems to be a VERY COMMON PROBLEM with this model and maybe there is a Recall in order? I am going to contact SOMEONE at GE that can give me some answers, meaybe it will help if everyone else here does the same.
I am not normally so demanding but for the money we spent on this unit I feel it should last more than 3-4 years. We all have the same probem around the same time frame.
Pleasa send me an Email as noted above if anyone finds the solution.
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
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the usual problem is lint build up and or to long of a run for the exhaust tube..When was the last time you cleaned you dryer exhaust ? I had an issue where I had to run my dryer through 4 cycles before a load would get close to being dry. I thought I has cleaned out all the lint from the dryer.. Finally I just ripped out all my exhaust tunes and sure enough there was a a large amount of lint build up where the shop vac did not reach. SO i replaced all the exhaust tubing and since I have a long run I added an exhaust fan, now the dryere works like it should,..
To dry clothes, we need 2 things: 1-heat to evaporate the water from the clothing 2- adequate air flow to exhaust the moist air, thereby drying them.
Your heat seems to work.....if you stop the dryer mid-cycle, the clothes should be hot.
It sounds to me like you have a lack of air flow through the dryer. If you can get to the exhaust vent grill outside, then see if you get a large volume of air coming out of it. If not, then look for the louvers stuck closed on your outside grill, or any kind of blockage in your ductwork.
Perhaps undo the vent at the back of the dryer TEMPORARILY
Close the door firmly. The dryer will not operate if the door is not completely closed.
Press the "Start" button firmly or push the knob in to start the dryer.
Turn the dial past the "Off" position and away from "Wrinkle
Prevent." The dryer will not start in the "Off" or "Wrinkle Prevent"
Long Drying Times
Remove the lint screen. Clean it and replace it.
Check the temperature of the room. The dryer will not operate properly in temperatures below 45 degrees Fahrenheit.
Inspect the area around the dryer. It requires at least
1-inch clearance on the front and sides of the dryer. A 5-inch clearance
is needed on the back of the dryer. Move the dryer, if needed.
Separate large loads and do not use an air dry cycle.
Lint, Stains and Wrinkles
Clean the lint screen before drying each load of clothes to prevent lint buildup on clothing.
Add fabric softener sheets before starting a drying cycle.
If the sheets are added after the load has partially dried, they can
leave stains on the clothing.
Dry small loads and remove clothing as soon as the drying cycle completes to prevent wrinkling.
Dryer is Noisy
Check the inside of the dryer for loose change, buttons or other items. Empty the pockets on clothing before drying.
Separate items that are knotted together and restart the
load. Knotted or balled up clothing will bounce and make the dryer
Level the dryer. Turn the leveling legs on the front of the
dryer clockwise or counter-clockwise until the dryer is level. Turning
the legs clockwise will lower the dryer. Turning the legs
counter-clockwise will raise the dryer.
This is caused by the dryer vent being blocked and not allowing the moist air to be removed from the dryer. To confirm this. Dry a load of close in a timed dry setting. Set the time on a specific time and then start the dryer. Wait for about 5 min. See if the timer has moved. If it has then the problem is not the timer. It is the exhaust vent being plugged up somewhere. Moisture how the auto dry setting works. The dryer sences moisture and runs longer to dry your clothes. With the dryer exhaust vent blocked, wet moist air is comming back into the dryer and fooling the sensor into believing the close are not dry and runs for a very long time. It is not uncommon for this problem to cause a dryer to never shut off. Your dryer exhaust vent is plugged up with lint somewhere.
IF YOUR DRYER HEATS AT ALL, BUT WON'T DRY THE CLOTHES, 99 PERCENT OF THE TIME THERE IS A RESTRICTION IN THE AIR FLOW. PULL THE EXHAUST OFF OF THE BACK OF THE DRYER AND DRY ONE LOAD. IF IT DRIES O.K., THERE IS A RESTRICTION IN THE DUCT WORK.
CLEAN OUT THE LINT FROM THE DUCT WORK. IF THE DUCT WORK IS FLEXIBLE MATERIAL, REPLACE IT WITH RIGID 4 INCH METAL DUCT.
Poor drying problems with dryers generally are attributed to clogged ducting. You have probably heard this before, but the first (and least expensive) fix for any dryer with long dry times is to check the air movement. As well know, dryers require good air flow to ensure proper drying. Now, when you said the air movement is strong, were you checking it at the air vent exhaust outside, or were you checking on the back of the dryer? An easy way to tell if there's a clog in the ducting, or a clog in the dryer is to run one load with the dryer vent disconnected from the back of the machine. Only run one load like this. Not a good idea to blow hot moist air into an enclosed area of your home over a period of time because it can cause mildew problems. If the dryer blows freely and your clothes dry faster, you know you need to check the ducting from where it connects to the wall to where it ends at the exhaust vent. Often it is not enough to just clean the lint trap and the outside vent. You need to check what's in between them as well. Mice and birds are notorious for building nests in dryer vents and clogging them up. Now...if the dryer is blowing poorly at the exhaust port on the back of the dryer, you will need to remove the door kick panel under the door and remove the vent duct housing to get to the blower fan. Make sure you unplug the dryer before attempting this. There are live voltages present even with the dryer turned off. Lint can get trapped in vent housing and restrict the movement of the fan, which, in turn, will cause poor air movement and longer dry times. Last of all, take a temperature reading at the exhaust port on the back of the dryer. A good temperature reading is roughly 140 degrees F. If the temperature is too low, you may have an operating thermostat or high limit thermostat malfunctioning. Check your vent ducting, first and let me know if you need further assistance. I hope this helps you.