Freeze proof faucet dripping badly (hardly used, 6 yr old), bolt holding plastic handle seems pretty well rusted on. I'm trying toi figure out if there is a servicable washer that needs replacement.

replace rubber seal in tap need to unscrew the nut to get at it

Installing Passenger Side Power Window:
First of all there are only 2 - 9/32 bolts that hold the door panel on. One is located right behind the door handle in plain sight. The second is the one that eluded me and I ended up breaking the hook off the back of the panel...it's located under the switch panel. It's a snap to remove; just pry around on it and it comes right up. Once again; these are the ONLY 2 bolts holding the panel to the door. Snap the cover off that goes around the door opening handle and also the little triangular piece that's where the wing windows used to be on the older trucks. Also pull the plastic part that's over the door lock. Then gently lift straight up just a little and pull out towards you. The panel will come right out where you can then unplug the speaker wire and remove the bulb assembly from the door light at the bottom. 1 - 3/8 bolt holds the door handle on; remove the handle and set aside. Then strip the plastic off being careful not to tear it since this will be reused. This is to keep moisture out and road noise down. My problem was a broken cable so I could move my window up and down by hand, but you may have to plug the switch in to move yours to the right position. I think it's about 1/4 inch down where you can see the 2 - 3/8 bolts that hold the window to the regulator. Loosen these bolts then gently break the window free. Pull it all the way up and tape it there so it doesn't fall and break while you are removing the old unit and installing the new one. There are 6 - 3/8 bolts that hold the assembly in place and it's pretty easy to figure out which ones they are. Take these out and work the unit out through the large hole at the bottom. The new one goes in pretty much the same way only in reverse. After I got the 6 - 3/8 bolts back in place I plugged the window switch in and rolled the unit all the way up being careful to make sure the clamps were going to line up with the window. They did, so I took the tape off and slowly lowered the window where I could tighten the 2 clamps down on the glass. Put the plastic back on, then the door handle. Plug the speaker wire back in and put the light back in at the bottom of the door, then set the panel back in the holes. Mine wasn't hard at all. Reinstall the 2 - 9/32 bolts then plug the switch assembly in and snap back in place. Replace the rest of the plastic covers and you should be pretty much finished.

I would try replacing the cartridge. Handle has a set screw (probably an allen head) There should be a retaining nut holding the cartridge in. Unscrew it and pull the old cartridge out. You might have to pull pretty hard.

If your Delta RP17453 Pull-Down Diverter Tub Spout stops dripping after 5 minutes, your ok. If it never stops dripping, you need to replace delta faucet cartridge(s) behind the handle(s). This is were the water turns on and off and stops the water flow to the tub spout.

Delta faucets are some of the easiest to repair, and parts are usually available at any hardware store or home center. If you have a two handle faucet, replace both delta seats and springs and stems. If you have a single handle Delta faucet, replace the entire cartridge.

The exact procedure to remove the old cartridge is with a plastic removal tool.With replacement cartridge you have to buy this plastic removal tool.Also there is same metal removal tool available.With the help of this tool you can easily remove the old cartridge.
Moen Cartridge Replacement Instructions

Moen shower faucet cartridge replacement is a project that will take some time to get done right. When is it time to replace a Moen cartridge? If you are like most people, you won't want to replace your old Moen cartridge until your old cartridge is starting to show its age.

Replacement is necessary, usually, once the old faucet starts to drip. Thankfully Moen faucet cartridge replacement is not difficult. However, if you are uncomfortable with doing the repair yourself, do not hesitate to call a professional plumber to do the job for you. This will guarantee that the job is done right.

If you follow these Moen faucet cartridge replacement instructions you will be able to replace your old cartridge by yourself. First of all, as with any plumbing repair, make sure that the water supply is turned off. Open the faucet to remove water pressure from the lines and let the remaining water drain from the pipes. You will then need to remove the faucet's handle by removing the decorative cover and removing the retaining screw. This will allow you to remove the handle.

Once the handle has been removed, work on releasing the splash plate from the wall. Generally there will be one or two screws to remove and the plate should release from the wall easily. From here the process begins to get a little trickier. Insert a shower stem socket onto the faucet valve's retaining nut and release the nut. Your Moen cartridge removal will be complete once you grab the cartridge with a pair of pliers and pull straight out to remove the old cartridge.

Clean any surfaces that you have access to and replace with the new cartridge. Follow all of the previous instructions in reverse order to re-assemble your shower faucet. Check to make sure that all the connections are tight before turning the water back on and testing the system out.
Now in your case the broken/cracked while removing the old cartridge so try this procedure carefully to get the stuck -up old cartridge out.
TAPPING the Threads into the Cartridge:
Carefully  hold one tab on the cartridge tight against the brass lip on the faucet body with needle nose and try  to drive the 1/2" tap into the smaller bore of the cartridge. It will take  about 15 minutes to slowly work the tap in all the way (maybe 3 turns?). Then  back out the tap... remove needle nose. [remember to turn the tap 1/4 turn back, for each 1/2 turn forward ... this clears the metal particles from the tap and makes the next 1/2 turn forward go smoother].

Next, assemble a 1/2" x 4" threaded rod, so it had threads all the way to the two jam nuts on one end)... If you use a bolt, get one with threads all the way up to the head. you may find it hard to find - so try a carriage bolt and spin a nut all the way up to the head .... continue: 

next on the bolt goes a 1/2 nut (this is the "jacking nut") and a flat washer so the jacking nut can spin easily against the next piece, a 1/2 drive socket (7/8" ) with the square hole toward the washer and jam nuts ( bolt head ).
The open end of the socket faces the brass body of faucet and rests on the round brass lip... having the same inside diameter. This allows a space for the cartridge to be pulled into ( a cavity). Thread the bolt into the tapped cartridge and snug it up so the 7/8" socket is aligned with and resting against the brass body. If the cartridge spins smooth, the threaded rod is GREAT. You can just work with the 1/2" rod and use needle nose (or similar) to stop the  cartridge from spinning, to get the rod threaded into the tapped threads in the cartridge... then, slip on the socket, washer and nuts.

Now snug it up tighter. Check socket alignment. Then begin turning the jacking nut ( the "extra" nut) until it contacts the flat washer and 7/8" socket. Now, as you continue to tighten the jacking nut, it will pull the 1/2 bolt (threaded rod) away from the faucet... and the cartridge will come along too. [You have to prevent the 1/2 rod from spinning while tightening the jacking nut. put a wrench on the bolt head.]
This procedure is bit lengthy and requires some appropriate tools,but this will release the stuck cartridge out.
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I assume that you are refering to a wall mounted hydrant. If that is the case, most do have a bibb washer at the end. You have to remove the packing nut and then the stem to get to it. Some brands you can do this while the handle is still on. Hope this helps.

you can try drilling a small pilot hole and then use an "easy out" (get'em at any hardware store). or take some large pliers and break the plastic handle and remove the whole cartridge. Go get a new cartridge and handle. Make sure main water valve is shut-off prior do doing so though.

Double handle controls, correct? Stamped metal? Thin and can be fragile, but will take some abuse. Okay, take a putty knife, or thin blade flat screwdriver, and place it in the groove that should be about 1/8" inch from the faucet handle top, hold that at about 25 degree angle, and strike the handle of the putty knife or screwdriver lightly. I don't mean a touch like tap, but don't take a mighty swing at it either, Just a little tap, or two, and any corrosion, rust, ect. should let go and the cover should raise a bit. In the alternative, if you can't get them to move or pop off, you can drill through the top of the handle with a 1/2" bit, and reach the phillips screws that hold the handle on that way. replacement knobs are available at Lowes, Home Depot, 84 Lumber, ect. But if the covers are stuck that tightly, then the handles probably are too, I've actually had to use vise grips and destroy the handles to get them off, and then replace them. Just be a bit patient, and they should remove. And if you have to drill them, only drill through the cover plate. About 1/4" should do. Put a peice of masking tape on the drill bit about 1/4" from the end and drill slowly and stop when it goes through. Otherwise you may mess up the phillps head screw that lays underneath. The replacement handles are pretty inexpensive, and if yours are pitted, scarred, rusted, or lost their luster, these will brighten the faucet area nicely. Plan on spending around 6 to 8 dollars for replacement handles. Still, thats cheaper than a faucet replacement.

GO TO MORRISON SUPPLY WEBSITE

Likely rust clogging valve, but remove arator first and clean. Rust accumulates in any metal pipes (coper, or galvinized) when not used for extended period of times.

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