In addition to the banging during the spin cycle, my washer now leaks. A tiny bit of water comes out of the back top where the lid seems to attach and about a coup or two comes out what looks like a vent in the bottom left of the back (as viewed from the back). Any ideas?
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The tub shouldn't bang on the inside of the washer cabinet, as you already know. That is not a "normal" way for it to fail. Rather, I suspect something else. First try this: If you have your washer right next to your dryer, the washer itself is probably banging against the dryer during specific times during the wash - but most likely during the spin cycle. If you spread them apart a little bit - or stuff a towel or two between them, you may find that it stops banging. The washer may also be hitting something other the dry, too. Check all around the washer - try to keep and inch or two between it and anything else. If it still is banging - then something else is causing it.
A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub.The banging noise is due to being unbalanced. You may need to replace the balance ring on the top of the drum inside the washer. Watch this Video to see if this is how your machine is acting.
yes you are right noise during spin cycle is due to faulty bearing.
If the tub seal lets go water will weep into the tub bearing. This will rust the basket shaft and normally wreck the tub bearing. Once the bearings starts to get worn enough it usually gets very noisy. The tub bearing is pressed onto the outer back half of the tub shell assembly. Normally need to replace the inner basket/shaft assembly and the outer shell with the tub bearing. Sometimes the inner basket support will crack, this can give an clicking or banging noise as well.
Pictures of this job... A sure indication was the brown junk/gookus leaking out if the rear bearing area and the belt has spewed it around in the drum that the rear bearing and seal was bad... Picture1 - Picture2 The whole outer shell and basket come out to do this repair....what bad bearing and rusted shaft looked like... Picture1 - Picture2 - Picture3 I had to remove the back panel. Undo the pump hose & water level hose, remove the 2 shocks, remove the motor, undo the front boot from the outer panel and remove the 2 springs to lift the whole assembly out from the back to work on it. Picture1 ( boot pushed inside ) Help page1 - Help page2 It leaks
Your washer can develop several types of leaks. You can track down a leak based on when it occurs:
Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.
The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak.
Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak.
During drain and spin only
A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.
Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.
Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician.
Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it.
Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.
There are springs inside the unit that stablize the tub during spin. If the springs are not attached correctly the tub will be off balance. Sometimes the Balance Ring loses it's fluid due to a crack or leak and the washer will spin off balance. THis requires a service tech to dissemble the machine.
A loud banging sound in the pipes is usually caused by a water hammer effect. Water hammer sounds are caused by a valve closing in the system, and yet the water in the pipe is still flowing because of its kinetic energy. The banging happens as the water hits the valve that prevents it from going any further. If the kinetic energy is great enough, it can actually cause a pipe to burst or explode at the end. If a valve is closed near the beginning or in the middle of a system, the water keeps flowing after that point, and it can actually create a vacuum. This vacuum can cause a pipe to implode if the stress is too great.
Roaring type noises may be coming from a spin bearing. This bearing probably had the grease washed from it because of a tub seal leak.
Squeaking sounds in a new washer are usually caused by the new parts getting broken in, and will usually go away after several washes.
The sounds of water gurgling, slurping, or sloshing during a spin cycle are usually caused by the drain pump pushing the water out of the washer tub.
Too much water pressure can cause a whistling or squealing sound. Adjust the hot and cold intake water valves to relieve this sound.
Metallic clinking sounds during spin or agitation may be the result of drive train components meshing during speed changes or after a pause.
Swishing or swooshing type of sounds may be caused by water and suds trapped between the tub and basket during a spin cycle, and will usually clear up as the water is drained from the washer
these washers are a swine to dis-assemble and i would not recommend it unless you are experienced.
on most indesit, the bearings are in a spider bolted to the outside of the tub. take the back off and see if you can localise the noise to the bearings
worthwhile also taking the heater out (one nut in the middle), peer in and check no foreign object causing the noise